DiscoRover007

Impressive Dan. You’re building her up the right way.

Looking great man

Testors Citrus Yellow metallic looks pretty close

The Ferrari 550 Maranello. Simply perfection.

I have a few aoshima kits and find this confusing also. There is a painting guide but it is sometimes unclear. I would refer to reference photos to be sure.

Testors missed the mark with their auto lacquers. The clear coat is great but most of the metallic colors do not have a good in scale look save for maybe the GTS Blue Pearl color. I absolutely lose testors metalizer paints though and hope they stick around.

Sweet man looking forward to this one. This is the Revell reissue right with the new front bumper?

You can use water and rubbing alcohol in a pinch. But you might end up with flatter finishes and rougher texture. I would probably get a hold of some Tamiya thinner.

Holy cow man. Amazing

Hey guys so I was curious to see if anyone here had methods to removing dust in their paint when using metallic/pearl colors? I always clear coat my paints. I've got a pretty good system in place to keep dust out of my paint but of course you get that one speck every now an again. I find its much easier to sand and buff these out with solid colors. However the difficulty comes with metallic colors. I have one example on my bench where I successfully avoided dust in the color coats of paint. However after the second clear coat I discovered a small hair sitting in the paint. When this has happened in the past I haven't been able to buff these errors out. It seems that A. You sand too much and discolor the base coat. Or B. You sand it out but there is still a "ghost" of the error in the paint even when you polish. Or C. You sand the error deeper into the paint So the solution end up being a small respray and re clear of those areas. However the issue with that is you risk trapping more dust in the respray and discoloration of the metallic color as it is now on top of a clear, on top of a base coat which may change it's depth and reflection. I wanted to ask you gentlemen here what you usually do in these cases. I will say I haven't let a body fully cure with these errors before and tried to sand it out. By fully cure I mean a few weeks. I use TS lacquers and will typically wait a few days or a week before attempting to sand things out. However I wonder if I let the body harden over a few weeks for example, if just maybe the underlying layers of clear will keep the dust suspended in which I could sand it out without messing with the base color.

I use photo etch for the male ends. But i typically make my seatbelt catches from styrene plastic. I find them to be more realistic in most cases for more modern cars. Simply sandwich your belt material between two pieces of the plastic, glue and cut to shape, then paint. Of course it all depends on the design of the real cars seatbelts.

Thank you! It truly is. It's definitely one of the better engineered kits in Tamiya's catalog. It also looks truly great just box stock.

Decided to post progress on a long time project of mine. This is my Tamiya 360 Modena. One of my favorite Ferrari designs ever. Engine is painted with MM aluminum metalizer over duplicolor primer sprayed at a distance to simulate texture. It was then washed with oil paints. Valve covers and other accessory bits were painted with Vallejo spray can silver and lightly washed with Vallejo black acrylic. Debating on wiring the coil packs but they really aren’t that visible. I ended up keeping the Tamiya plating on the exhaust as I think it is actually a pretty good representation with some weathering. I used various Tamiya weathering powders for that. I am quite proud of the overall look so far of this engine. Maybe my best paint job to date. Going for a slightly used but well cared for look. The interior is flat black and masked off to paint the silver center console and passenger side thing. I then masked those parts and used the spray adhesive method for flocking. The seats and dash will be tan. I As for the body color. Well, You already know....

Looks great. Really wish Aoshima or Tamiya would make a 2003-2006 model Pajero/Montero

Good luck with it. If you do happen to get creases you might be able to just airbrush some ts-13 or primer over those parts and then sand it smooth for paint.

How bad is it? Maybe you can tape off the bonnet and touch it up with an airbrush?

I think you could save some money by skipping the carbon decals on the body and maybe just try to simulate the pattern bleed through instead. You could paint the body yellow and then using a type of mesh(maybe nylon, they have little bags you can by and take apart at hobby lobby) and put that over the body and then spray light coats of yellow over that with an airbrush. Then remove the mesh and do one more wetcoat. The texture should probably still show through. Just a thought.

The guy on the scale modeling channel uses pledge. I might try it on a spare piece and see how it looks. My concern there is the gloss shining through the flocking

Yes I use this method. It usually takes two coats. Spray, then flock, empty the tub and inspect, then spray again and flock once more. Any errors after that can be patched with the white glue method. The spray adhesive works really well to pack as much of the material as possible. It looks pretty realistic. Granted you need to make sure you mask the areas you don't want sprayed well.

I usually just wait until it’s a sunny day with less humidity. Duplicolor paints are super sensitive to humidity. Tamiyas can handle it a little better. You can usually spray outside and bring the body inside to cure without it fogging if you do it quick enough. But then you risk debris hitting the model.

You definitely want to ditch the testors enamel silver. Go for Tamiya Mica Silver or Gloss Aluminum for darker silvers. Vallejo has actually released an aerosol version of their silver. I ordered a can to see how close the scale of flake is. Will let you know how that goes.

Wow looks very 288 GTO and also a Ford GT copy

Nice job man. What paint did you use for the silver? I've found that you can get better results with mica and metallic colors by color sanding your second to last coat of paint before clear coating it. You'll get the particles to lay down much smoother.

Tamiya putty works really great. I like their much better than Testors or Bondo but for more dense and sturdier fixes I also use two part milliput

I actually just found out that Vallejo has come out with Acrylic spray paint. So i might give those a shot. They have, black, gunmetal, and a gloss clear coat. Sounds like exactly what I could use.