DiscoRover007

I really want to like it. It looks good for the most part but the rear end looks a little over designed to me and I can't help but think 488 GTB every time I see it.

IF you want the absolute finest and most realistic in terms of scale of flake then this is your answer OP. Alcad probably has a similar product these days also. But to make metalizer it work you must have a totally smooth surface. It is a ton of sanding and correction. I would even use Zero Primer for that and make sure you use a very durable clear coat. 2k would probably be best. I did a few paint jobs with MM Non buffing aluminum and while it looked great it was prone to chipping. It's not really meant to be a body color across large surfaces. Tamiya Gloss Aluminum is also doable but that requires very patient color sanding( if you really want it to look right and in scale across the entire body). Tamiya Silver leaf is too bright for the colors you want. Tamiya Mica Silver actually comes out to a very fine finish if you prep the primer well and use a few stages of color sanding also. Using this method and the ease of use of this paint in general, it has become my preferred silver. You can also try Zero Paints Porsche Pearl Silver, it is a very fine silver(about the same as MM Aluminum Metalizer). Zero Paints also make an old school silver called silbergrau db180 that is extremely fine also.

After the body is prepped I wash it with cold water and blow it off with compressed air with a can or airbrush. Then I use Tamiya's anti static brush and wipe every crevice. This brush is used to remove dust off finished models and but it is great for paint prep also and has been a huge factor for me. I also spray my booth down with water to trap particles and I also spray the air and the floor where I'm working to trap more potential particles. I also spray my arms with water and even a couple light sprays to my own hair to keep it from falling. Basically spray down anything you could imagine that would cause dust. This has worked pretty well for me and usually eliminates 90% percent of dust.

I used Tamiya mica red over gloss black and then clear coated with tamiya clear red. Then cleared with TS-13

NIce job man! very clean work

I've had the same reaction with WLC before. It has nothing to do with your acrylic base coat. The bubbles happen when you spray too close or spray too much clear at one time. It causes it to pool and bubble up. Just use lighter coats and you should be fine. I would recommend a switch to lacquer for the basecoat though just to have a tougher finish. Duplicolor paints have their own issues also though.

The aclad might have a property to it that attracts dust. One thing Ive done recently is to use Tamiya's static brush to use just before painting. It wipes off dust and eliminates the static charge so you are less likely to get imperfections. It's meant to dust off displays models but it works well for painting too.

Impressive Dan. You’re building her up the right way.

Looking great man

Testors Citrus Yellow metallic looks pretty close

The Ferrari 550 Maranello. Simply perfection.

I have a few aoshima kits and find this confusing also. There is a painting guide but it is sometimes unclear. I would refer to reference photos to be sure.

Testors missed the mark with their auto lacquers. The clear coat is great but most of the metallic colors do not have a good in scale look save for maybe the GTS Blue Pearl color. I absolutely lose testors metalizer paints though and hope they stick around.

Sweet man looking forward to this one. This is the Revell reissue right with the new front bumper?

You can use water and rubbing alcohol in a pinch. But you might end up with flatter finishes and rougher texture. I would probably get a hold of some Tamiya thinner.

Holy cow man. Amazing

Hey guys so I was curious to see if anyone here had methods to removing dust in their paint when using metallic/pearl colors? I always clear coat my paints. I've got a pretty good system in place to keep dust out of my paint but of course you get that one speck every now an again. I find its much easier to sand and buff these out with solid colors. However the difficulty comes with metallic colors. I have one example on my bench where I successfully avoided dust in the color coats of paint. However after the second clear coat I discovered a small hair sitting in the paint. When this has happened in the past I haven't been able to buff these errors out. It seems that A. You sand too much and discolor the base coat. Or B. You sand it out but there is still a "ghost" of the error in the paint even when you polish. Or C. You sand the error deeper into the paint So the solution end up being a small respray and re clear of those areas. However the issue with that is you risk trapping more dust in the respray and discoloration of the metallic color as it is now on top of a clear, on top of a base coat which may change it's depth and reflection. I wanted to ask you gentlemen here what you usually do in these cases. I will say I haven't let a body fully cure with these errors before and tried to sand it out. By fully cure I mean a few weeks. I use TS lacquers and will typically wait a few days or a week before attempting to sand things out. However I wonder if I let the body harden over a few weeks for example, if just maybe the underlying layers of clear will keep the dust suspended in which I could sand it out without messing with the base color.

I use photo etch for the male ends. But i typically make my seatbelt catches from styrene plastic. I find them to be more realistic in most cases for more modern cars. Simply sandwich your belt material between two pieces of the plastic, glue and cut to shape, then paint. Of course it all depends on the design of the real cars seatbelts.

Thank you! It truly is. It's definitely one of the better engineered kits in Tamiya's catalog. It also looks truly great just box stock.

Decided to post progress on a long time project of mine. This is my Tamiya 360 Modena. One of my favorite Ferrari designs ever. Engine is painted with MM aluminum metalizer over duplicolor primer sprayed at a distance to simulate texture. It was then washed with oil paints. Valve covers and other accessory bits were painted with Vallejo spray can silver and lightly washed with Vallejo black acrylic. Debating on wiring the coil packs but they really aren’t that visible. I ended up keeping the Tamiya plating on the exhaust as I think it is actually a pretty good representation with some weathering. I used various Tamiya weathering powders for that. I am quite proud of the overall look so far of this engine. Maybe my best paint job to date. Going for a slightly used but well cared for look. The interior is flat black and masked off to paint the silver center console and passenger side thing. I then masked those parts and used the spray adhesive method for flocking. The seats and dash will be tan. I As for the body color. Well, You already know....

Looks great. Really wish Aoshima or Tamiya would make a 2003-2006 model Pajero/Montero

Good luck with it. If you do happen to get creases you might be able to just airbrush some ts-13 or primer over those parts and then sand it smooth for paint.

How bad is it? Maybe you can tape off the bonnet and touch it up with an airbrush?

I think you could save some money by skipping the carbon decals on the body and maybe just try to simulate the pattern bleed through instead. You could paint the body yellow and then using a type of mesh(maybe nylon, they have little bags you can by and take apart at hobby lobby) and put that over the body and then spray light coats of yellow over that with an airbrush. Then remove the mesh and do one more wetcoat. The texture should probably still show through. Just a thought.

The guy on the scale modeling channel uses pledge. I might try it on a spare piece and see how it looks. My concern there is the gloss shining through the flocking