DiscoRover007

I started a thread on automotive forums a long time ago discussing the colors for the xj220 and long time member told me what they were. JD3 is Silverstone and JD4 was the monza red. They were exclusive colors for the xj220 so they are very hard to find. I basically just tried to find automotive touch up websites that might have that code and lucked out on one. The paint is on the way so i may have the right color but only a test will tell me how small the flakes are. Im pretty sure it's a pearl color so it should look like it's in scale.

I just bit the bullet on it! I actually found the exact color. The code is JD3 from 1992 https://genicolor.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=67630&virtuemart_category_id=23&lang=en I would imagine JS0003 is quite similar but I guess we shall see. Hoping to make my XJ220 as good as yours! I've been going back in forth on mine for a while now. Wanted to do one in silver for the longest time but last week I though the green be a more fun, more unique choice.

Awesome work! I was wondering though. Have I perhaps stubbled upon the sivlerstone green you were referring to? http://joomladev.genicolor.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=28232&virtuemart_category_id=21&Itemid=481&lang=en

Revell could actually make more kits that younger people want to buy versus constantly rehashing old subjects.

BMF doesn't intimidate me at all. But then again I don't build classic subject matter. I build my favorite modern cars thats it. So I use BMF on interior/engine/and tail lights. I'm not risking scratching anything because I'm not using it for window trim.

Sounds like a good method to keep air brushed from being gunked with enamel residue. I've been using testors enamel gloss black thinned with lacquer thinner. Provides a great and tough finish but I hate cleaning it out of the spray gun.

The revell kit is pretty good for the price but they always have a lot of sink holes and such on the body. Plus the grainy engine cover it comes with isn't realistic at all.

Looks good. Would be a good option for those who paint bodies with Vallejo Air Acrylics.

They should scrap the design all together and come out with a Defender 90 kit and a Discovery I or II. Those would sell.

Elmers can work nice but you need the right watered down consistency with the white glue. The best results I've achieved were through spray can adhesive from autozone. Just mask off what you don't want sprayed. If you miss some spots then you can "patch" them with the white glue method.

I didn't mean to come across as harsh on the Badger airbrushes. I had the 150 and 175 at one point. That was early in my modelling career. I was more naive then and didn't know proper care for airbrushes. However I still think Iwata is superior. For less than $150 you can get a gravity fed brush, one with a trigger even and you probably won't ever need another one again. What I didn't like about Badger is the o-rings dissolving based on what solvents you used. You can spray anything out of Iwata. Siphon fed tends to be messier. One cool thing about Iwata is that Hobby Lobby is starting to sell replacements parts in their store. Which comes in handy if you accidentally bend a needle. I myself have 2 Iwata brushes. The CR and the Kustum CS. It's awesome having 2 ready to go. You can get a lot of work done in a short amount of time. I usually use one for metallics and one for solid colors in painting sessions.

You should get a gravity fed airbrush from Iwata. I find siphon fed brushes to be nothing but annoying and more time consuming to clean. You'll never go back and they are the best for your buck.

Automotive primers are cheap and awesome. The biggest issue with Duplicolor paints is that they are extremely sensitive to humidity. So the paint fogs very easily and you pretty much have to paint it in direct sunlight to get a clear shine. However if you clear coat with say testors one coat clear. The shine returns regardless. I've also noticed that Duplicolor paints show mold lines very easily. Even you sand down your mold lines and prime the body properly they can still show through. I believe the term is ghost line. I rarely get this problem with Tamiya cans. I'm guessing the Duplicolor stuff has more solvent and perhaps etches the primer. So basically if you use duplicolor you need to work overtime on mold lines. Don't just sand them down. Even if you think it's smooth. Fill them with putty or super glue and then resand.

Ive got a 911 gt1 kit by Tamiya that I keep putting off because I want to convert it to a street version. I have mustered the courage to do all the putty work. Not that it would be hard but I just dont feel like it yet haha.

I think $15-$30 is the range most if not all kits should cost. Anything above that I can't really justify, no matter the quality it is still plastic in a box.

Model Master Aluminum metalizer makes for a great silver paint job because it is extremely fine. But the surface has to be perfectly smooth and you should probably use zero prime. TS-17 is Tamiya's finest silver, well actually their bare metal silver is probably finer. TS-17 is a finicky paint though, it is not easy to use in my opinion.

Hey guys. Finally bought this kit and am so excited to get started and share with you all. The NSX is absolutely one of my favorite cars ever. I knew immediately I wanted to replicate a sebring silver with black top version once I saw this photo. This car is my inspiration. So for the paint I went with model master aluminum metalizer. Now I've searched a lot of paints and tried a lot of silvers, even a few Zero paint silvers and I must say I've yet to find one that truly replicated an "in scale" flake that MM aluminum can. You'll find that it's not as bright as some other paints such as TS-17 but some cars have darker silvers etc. The most important thing in my mind was scale of flake. So the body was primed in Zero Primer, wet sanded smooth. It took about 2 bottles of metalizer and several takes of resanding and respraying, some buffing in between here and there. It was then clear coated with testors wet look clear. I first spray light clear coats with an airbrush to build up a base and then did the wet coats through a can. For the interior I went with Vallejo air black, flocked with detail master dark grey flocking. I used the spray adhesive method. Superior to the white glue method in a lot of ways. Though I think white glue still has it's place. I can tell if I finish this one I will taking a ton of photos. Here are a few mock up shots so far. To replicate the wheels I'm going through hobby design: And since it was a nice day out I had to snap a few of another kit I'm working on... http://s3.postimg.org/4418k12eb/IMAG0610.jpg http://s29.postimg.org/p4ol201xz/IMAG0615.jpg Hope you guys think it's interesting so far. I think this one will be a lot of fun.

Im some what in the same boat. Almost none of my friends know I build. But if there were to find out and give me hell for it I'd tell them to piss off. I consider myself fairly advanced skill wise now and the patience, time, effort and intellectual thought that goes into detailed models is absolutely mature and interesting. I simply consider it another form of art work or painting. It's better than smoking weed or watching tv all day.

The 2011-12 and the 2004 mustangs are still the best looking in the modern era in my opinion. This new model looks a hell of a lot like a lancer evo. Not really digging it.

Had a beautiful gunmetal paint job on a tamiya supra kit. Once I had cleared it I realized the hood was slightly warped. I tried to correct it by heating it under a lamp to bend it. I let it sit under the lamp too long, forgot about it and the BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH thing was nearly melted in half.

Despite the massive color selection of Duplicolor I don't use them anymore. i find them to be way too sensitive to humidity. Additionally their paint seems to have a "crinkling" effect, particularly their metallics when I use them. So I just stick to Tamiya now.

I've been thinking about purchasing this kit for a long time. It looks great so far. What sort of inaccuracies need to be taken care of to make it accurate? When I build kits my biggest concerns are immediately body inaccuracies. Such as extra panel lines or lack there of.

As far as quality Tamiya is consistently the best imo. Always crisp molds, complete with window masks and metal transfers. Lately Revell has rivaled them with their latest works in my opinion. In a few years I think they will equal them. Aoshima is also very good. Fujimi has interesting subject matter which is what makes me buy their stuff sometimes. But a lot of their kits, although are crisply molded have inaccuracies and sink marks. They often lack engine detail too. Their enthusiast kits are extremely detailed though the parts fitment isn't very good. But those are old kits so it's understandable.

Hey guys not if sure if you've been on the revell germany site lately but they have started a "post your idea" on their site. Basically you tell them what model you would like to be made. Not sure if revell will actually go through with it but it's definitely cool to finally voice our opinion on what we think should be made. I myself have suggested the Maserati MC12 in 1/24. Which I hope you all vote for by the way(Most beautiful car ever) You can vote for it here if you like: http://ideas.revell.de/ideas/item/2597/ I also suggested the Land Rover Discovery II. I'm not sure it has much hope but it deserves to have a model. One of the coolest 4x4's and was Land Rover's best selling truck. Which you can vote here for, http://ideas.revell.de/ideas/item/2724/ Now besides campaigning my own ideas suggest some of your own and tell Revell what we want!

I go a couple times a month maybe. But I pretty much go there with the 40% coupon to stack up on Testors one coat clear or Vallejo acrylics. I can also get replacement parts for my Iwata custom CS there too. They carry tamiya weathering systems and the super tiny cotton swabs as well. I never buy kits there anymore though. Too over priced and I still can't justify it with a coupon unless it's something I really want. A couple years ago they used to sell at least a couple of tamiya kits but they stopped doing that.