DiscoRover007

I’ve used these pens and I highly recommend them. I haven’t tried airbrushing them though. Usually for ease of use you can’t beat Testors aluminum buffing metalizer. No glossy black surface, no primer even if you don’t want to. It’s not chrome but you can get a highly reflective surface for most chrome like parts. In combination with the right heat staining applications it’s very effective.

Can you use heat staining techniques on it? Tamiya powders /acrylics?

Can you mask the molotow without a clear coat or is it too delicate? Seems like it could be great for exhaust parts and headers.

Wow that is an epic set up. What did that cost you and do you still have the dimensions? Would love to mimic that one day.

I use a booth but not the fan. It’s essentially a metal box for me. But before I paint I take a windex bottle and or spray bottle with water and spray every where. The air, the booth, the floor, my shoes, my pants, even my arms. You need to seal any dust you can imagine kicking up before it happens. For the body prep. I usually wash the body before painting depending on how much visible dust there is. I then use my airbrush at high psi to blow it off being careful to hit every crevice. This usually takes care of about 96% of my dust problems.

Hey guys i just came across this primer on YouTube. It’s an acrylic primer that seems to be well hyped and considered one of the best out there. Has anyone used this with lacquer paints on top? I’d like to give it a shot. Seems like it would be a perfect base for silver paints but I want to make sure it’s compatible with TS sprays and gravity colors. I know generally acrylics cannot be top coated with lacquer but there seems to be a few people getting away with it on this product. Can anyone confirm? Thanks

Curious about this as well. Looks good!

I’d sand the clear with polishing pads. Wash it with dish soap and water to remove wax residue and then give a few more coats of clear. Then hopefully you’ll have a finer finish and easier time polishing.

I bought the Dino targa version last year and to my disappointment I learned it was curbside. How you figure out which kit has the enthusiast engine parts or not?

Very nice work. Kudos for getting that kind of finish with Duplicolor in this kind of weather. Here in NC Duplicolor fogs horrible unless it’s summer time.

Off the top of my head Ferrari 488 gtb Land Rover Discovery 2 2003 Mitsubishi Montero New 911 Carrera Would also be nice to get a real Ford GT model kit by Tamiya

For sure. Just make sure you wash the body after sanding. Since you have an airbrush, use some compressed air to blow off water and dust. I usually use that and a lightly damp paper towel to remove any debree left over. Are you clear coating this as well?

If you want. You could purchase a 3M 3-5000 polishing pad. Buff the paint to a dull shine(but don’t burn through). Then lay on 1-2 more wetcoats. Should have a solid shine with minimal orange peel.

I think it should be fine. I usually start misting clear 30mins to an hour after the last color coat. It I laid down some heavy color coats then I’ll wait 24 hours at least. Just to prevent any sort of running.

Back when I attempted a Revell Diablo VT build I researched engine photos constantly of this subject. I have never actually seen the air intake represented in such a rough texture online or anywhere else. There is an air intake of that same design but the texture is smooth like a brushed aluminum. The way the kit portrays it is inaccurate in my opinion. The AMT actually looked pretty well designed. It seems perfectly presentable without a cover to me. If you really want one that’s accurate though you would need to borrow it from a Fujimi Diablo.

I agree. I think the Aoshima kit is near perfect. Mine is still stashed because I lost one of the rear fenders and I've yet to find a replacement.

Very well detailed kit for sure. There are a few fitment issues if I recall. Aoshima also does an excellent countach as well. It terms of detail and combined engineering/straight forwardedness and great tooling it is probably the best one to date in my opinion. The fujimi version does have many more parts and details though. I'll be watching closely!

Looks good. I'm building the Modena version currently. Ill be watching closely.

The silver looks great. What color did you use?

Looking good so far. What's interesting about this kit is that is does not represent an actual f40 lm at all. But if you Google search you will eventually find that this model does match an alternate f40. I think it is actually based off a street version LM prototype or perhaps just an F40 with aftermarket racing options.

Here's a tip to eliminate most dust from getting out of your paint. Spray your work area with water in a spray bottle. Spray the floor, air, and inside the box or whatever you are storing the body to dry in. Wash the body itself and if you have an airbrush use compressed air at high psi to blow it off. This has eliminated about 95% of dust from my paint jobs. I still get occasional hairs or little tiny dust specs. But nothing that can't be lightly sanded out.

Alright guys just inching closer. I painted the fan shroud and added hose clamps via bmf. That sucker is a pain to mask and detail. I also added battery cables. This was done by drilling a hole in the back of the positive side and simply running thin plastic tubing into it. For the other side I had to modify the terminal by tapping into it and adding a thinner plastic tubing. This way I could snug a PE cable piece securely. I also repainted the battery and I'm very happy with how it turned out. The engine bay is 99% complete. I'm just going to add some vaccum lines to top it off. I have also completed the interior. I added seatbelts belts and and PE brackets for the front seats. I had to cut two notches into the tub to make sure they flush with the body. I also changed out the rear buckles for a modern era design. I then did some touch ups and glued the seats in place. I couldn't find a method to adding the Supra logo to the floor mats so I went with out. It's hard to notice anyway. Getting close to the finish line.

Currently Tamiya Toyota Supra 90% done Revell Porsche 918 Tamiya Ferrari F50 Fujimi Ferrari 550 Marinello Aoshima Lamborghini Diablo GT

Try and see if you can polish off that residue. I'd think a compound could take that off.

If you want real accuracy the Tamiya 1/24 Supra kit is by far superior in proportion and detail. It represents the stock version of the car but they're are companies that sell the f&f body kits for the model. That would require modelling skills though. No way should that amt model be $100. That is a waste. Just my two cents.