DiscoRover007

Agree to disagree. I think weathering is rather easy. Weathering also gives you an easy out when you have blemishes in the paint. Also if you mess up you can polish your flat paints off and respray. Getting a perfect paint job is not easy. Weathering things like exhausts definitely takes skill and is rather easy to mess up and over kill. I think it just depends on what you're going for.

All due respect to the contest I would have taken your model as #1. That is smooth and finely laid paint. With no dust I might add. That is a hell of a lot harder than weathering a car to look rusted.

I think you make a good point there. The paint is priority #1 for the body and interior. Then comes details. But don't try anything you can't reasonably replication within your skill level. Itll look better clean and simple than a mess.

Hey guys I was just wondering if there was a way to paint carbon twill weave pattern? I know you can use screen mesh for the standard carbon fiber pattern. But I was looking to see if it's possible to paint twill patterns? The only thing I could think of would be to cut thin strips of tape but I feel that would be so maticulous that you might as well use decals at that point. Any ideas?

Thank you for your well thought response. You did a nice job on that Ferrari. I know you mentioned the Diablo GT doesn't have modern GM coi packs. But heres a photo from a 2010 Camaro SS. If I could shave these off and attach ignition wires it might be quite convincing.

Thats a great thought. I just googled revell Camaro and it seems their 2002 and 2010 models use coil packs like that. That could be the ticket. Maybe there are some other models I should check too.

I was surprised as well. Even the aftermarket photoetch set doesn't provide a solution. This will take some creativity.

Hey guys I recently picked up the Aoshima Diablo GT kit. And I wanted to ask how to simulate the spark plugs? They are not traditional spark plugs. It appears to me that they have some kind of multi plug set up on each cylinder. The kit does not address these details at all. My first thought would be to maybe cut 12 pieces of half circle sterene piping if I can find it. Then drill small holes into them and insert metal wire. Then wrap that wire with a very thin dia wire. Paint black. Then use rubber hose for plug boots then insert a slightly smaller one for the ignition wire. Any other ideas? Does any company make these kinds of spark plugs so I don't have to scratch build one.

The good news is at least you are painting a solid color. Youd have to stripe all of the paint off if you were going with metallic.

It's a great car. There's a company that puts Corvette motors in the new Miatas for 50k. Might make an interesting project with the new Tamiya model and a revell corvette motor.

Alright guys not a whole lot of progress since my last post but I did get a few things done. Side markers and turn signals have been attached. ZoomOn provides metal transfers for these which can be colored with a marker. Still debating on whether to keep them over the decals or not. I am still painting the window glass. It's almost finished but certain parts are jagged and need to be retouched. I accidentally stepped on the hood and had to repaint it with a spare I had from a doner kit. Here are some mock up pics. Side mirrors are painted but need to touching up before installation. I also started adding metal transfer decals.

Nice. What color is that?

Question for you guys. Have any of you clear coated clear plastic with lacquer clear? I know that's probably taboo but will it craze the plastic? I'm trying to keep the headlights crystal clear. I used future but it's easy to fog it up again with handling.

Hard to say honestly. Perhaps you didn't put enough flocking material? For the record I use spray adhesive from auto zone and it works great. Any touchup areas after that I use the white glue method.

Thanks guys. It's close to being finished but I just want to make sure it all looks clean. The painting the window glass is going to be hardest part from here on out. All of the available window masks online are very poor. It's one thing I haven't mastered yet. I may ask someone on here to paint it for me haha.

Today was a beautiful day and wanted to get some better daylight mock up shots for you guys. Finished the window rubbers. Next will be badging

Looking nice. Are you painting this silver?

Still need to get the spoiler painted and finish the body trim and window glass. But she is coming together. The engine compartment is almost done but properly detail painting the turbos is frustrating at the moment. trying my best to do a clean job.

Without further ado I finally have a rolling chassis. I decided to keep this car looking very clean and stock. I stripped the chrome off the wheels and sprayed them model master aluminum. Then I sanded the tread off of the tires with 320 grit and then I actually used real wetlook automotive tire shine on the walls. I debated sending off the wheels to chrome tech but I ultimately thought the aluminum look would give a better in scale effect. I have another set of wheels I may try for that down the road.

Getting closer to a rolling chassis. Brakes painted model master aluminum plate, buffed, and I did not seal them to keep them as shiny as possible. The calipers are painted Vallejo black. Decals needed a lot of Microsol to conform.

I'd super glue, sand and putty over the break. It would be an eye sore to me but it should hold up after that.

Another small update for today. Started making progress on the headlights. Painted Vallejo air black. Then I installed the zoom on model headlight upgrade. They include 3 sets if parts and 2 metal transfer rings to replicate the supra headlights more accurately. Of the few faults this model has, the headlights are the most glaring one. Probably due to the technology of kit making at the time. But ZoomOn did a great job with these.

Looking pretty

Yep sure did. Not completely though. Just enough to securely place the metal wire inside. The cable on the left was glued but the one right isnt so it can be slightly adjusted. Made it easier to install. I actua made another one since this post. The new cable looks a little more straight.

Reference