John Goschke

Terrific work on this custom rod!

Outstanding build, Dennis! Lovin' the prototypically accurate engineering. Though now my budget has to accommodate TWO Revell kits for nailhead parts, dammit!

Outstanding work on this meticulous build, Bob!

Incredible. What a treat to see such a rare old kit built so well.

Wow, that's amazing. So great to see a build of this vintage kit.

Love it.

While it's pretty crude in the detail department, I think the original 1958-vintage kit has better body proportions and shape...

Very impressive! I've always wanted to try one of these.

The engine in the Edsel kit represents the 361 4V FE shared by all Ford-based Edsels, including the Pacer, Ranger, and all wagons. The 410 4V MEL engine was only available in the Merc-based Edsel Citation and Corsair.

Nice clean build! Love that color, too.

Nice kit! Love the real rubber tire that are in these early issues. Some careful knife work with a fresh #11 blade to thin down the spokes on the wire wheels can make a huge difference.

Thanks, Bill! Give it a try, Bill – embrace the simplicity! Everybody needs at least one '58 Ford! Thanks, Chris! On the lower A arms I usually let the difference between gloss and flat black, and careful painting, define the shape of the piece. When viewed from the front the shiny A arm pops a little and the flat black lays back in shadow. The oil pan will also get some gloss color. Thanks, Dave! It also helps the illusion of detail in an area that one's eye might be drawn to due to the chrome tailpipes that I'll add later.

Really nice work. Excellent choice of color and that interior makes it!

An unbuilt AMT '63 Bonneville hardtop I can actually afford!

Recently decided to take another step to enhance the curbside view of this model by opening up the space underneath the molded-on rear leaf springs to give the parts some visual separation from the frame. Hogged them out with a Dremel tool and finished up with knife, file, and sandpaper. I added the missing portion of spring over the axle with the appropriate piece from a Revell '59 Ford Skyliner rear end. Also, as usual with AMT's 1959 kit chassis, this one has large C-notches that need filling in the frame behind the front suspension where custom lake pipes were meant to be attached. A section of sprue, a piece of square rod, and some cyano did the trick. The photos show it compared to an unmodified '59 Ford chassis in another '58 Ford.

Thanks, Erik! Thanks, Greg! Thanks, Bruce! That old yellow and black from 1979 - 1980 was one of the first models that I did a lot of work to in an effort to add detail, correct inaccuracies and keep details in scale.

Great work, Steve! The wood grain is very convincing.

Thanks, David!

Thanks so much Chris!

Such great work! Makes me want to drop everything and go work on a model!

Wow! Impressive work on this ambitious project!

Great build! I love those racing T'birds!

Ambitious project, Steve, but you're the man to get it done!

Thanks, Ron! I like your color suggestion and if I didn't already have a plan I'd go with it, but it does include a pearl white roof. Thanks, Kerry! Thanks, Chris! If you wouldn't copying those switches, that would be great! Thanks! Send me a PM.

Now that the quickie projects are done and the distracting '57 T-bird is away on the shelf, I can concentrate on replacing the Fairlane's interior in earnest. Basically it's an AMT '57 Fairlane 500 interior minus the side panels, which have been replaced with sheet styrene that I'll detail with trim and hardware later. I'm using a '58 T-bird console with '62 T-bird bucket seats. To match the front seats, the rolled and pleated sections from the '62 T-bird rear seat were fitted into the '57 Ford rear seat. The custom steering wheel is from AMT's '56 Fairlane kit. I used the same interior mounting technique as on the '58 Impala. Tabs inside the body that fit slots on the outside of the interior. Additionally a block behind the package shelf will provide another cementing point. One of the inaccuracies on AMT's '58 Ford body is the door panel line that curves forward toward the top where it should be straight. To fill only the curved section I drilled a hole through the body at the bottom of the curve that I plugged with styrene rod that served as "dam" against capillary action when the curved portion of the line was filled with cyano.