vamach1

I've read all the comments and here are some pretty impartial observations and comments. #1 Do NOT promise 9 issues a year. A more reasonable number would be four. If they cost about $5 an issue to procure than perhaps $20 would cover one year. There is no way $35 is going to cover nine issues. PERIOD. #2 Do not offer subscriptions on a time basis. State you'll get four issues, one about every three months. If that slips by a few months no one will be callling for your head. #3 I subscribed for a year to a Mustang magazine at a car show for a year. About a year later I received the first issue and what was supposed to be a monthly magazine turned out to be about four a year. So my subscription of $20 lasted three years. The publisher went out of business and a lot of people never got the issues they were promised. People will file BBB complaints and take legal action no matter what your circumstances because charging for a product and not delivering it is fraud. #4 Keep people apprised if there are delays via a website or email. Do not leave them wondering and bickering. #5 Track subscribers by Issue # and of course customer number. The number could be for example. S1111D2. The S would be the last name, the 1111's would be your unique ID and the last two digits would be the issue expiration - for example issue D which would be the 4th, 8th, 12th issue, etc. of year #2. When the subscriber renewed the last digit would change to a 3 and so on. #6 Avoid ads that are time sensitive. Threre is nothing more annoying than seeing an ad for an event that happened months ago. We would all like to see the magazine continue but I think the expectations have to be reset. If money is an issue re-read item #1. Since this is a low volume enterprise, the cost of producing the product for the time period promised exceeds the revenue stream. This means one thing and one thing only - going out of business and/or bankruptcy. Relying on new subscriptions to cover the cost of producing current issues is not a good idea. Lastly, feel free to agree or disagree and provide constructive suggestions.

Great mix of the fastback and convertible Monogram kits. It shows who the model companies could sell more kits if they just put a little effort into marketing a "new" kit without having to do more than swap some parts trees, redo the instructions and box art.

It's too bad the molded in Cobra emblems on the hood and trunk are way out of scale. As you know Keith Marks has some nice decals that are the correct size.

I bought the Academy kit on Ebay recently so I may have some spare parts. JC used the Sunny body I had as a starting point to make one of his beautiful racing 289's.

I have extra parts if you need them. I have about six of these unbuilt from the various versions issued over the years.

Having a distributor and spare tire would be a great improvement over the Trumpeter kit ;-)

Is that the Sunny kit from Japan?

Maybe you can build as is.

A lot of people over 70 do not have websites. Could they outsource one - of course but he would have to weigh the cost versus the benefit. He still has to make the parts and package and ship them so don't hold your breath.

Yes JC yours is 100% better looking.

Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland. No website but search this forum for contact info.

R&M did a GT grille for the 67 Mustang.

Is that the kit radiator? I cannot remember if it is a separate part.

Are you making a GT350 or GT or a non GT fastback? The grille you have would put it in the non GT category if you are building a factory stock version.

I like the blacked out grille w/o fog lamps and the MSD ignition and HEI coil.

Super nice, Are they resin?

The #1 issue is there is no 351 CLEVELAND engine. Of course 73 Mustangs also came with six cylinders and 302's. You could use the kit 289/302/351W. Then there is the incorrect exhaust system that should have one or two oval style mufflers. I could go on about there not being shock tower braces, a radiator shroud, no stock air cleaner, but you get the idea. If you want to build a shelf kit and glue the hood shut that can be done after filling in those incorrect hood vents. Otherwise, there are a lot of mods needed to make the kit something close to being accurate. Ram air plenum - forget about it or scratch build one.

Thanks for posting a great build and listing all the changes and additions to make a very nice replica.

The Maryland Automotive Modelers Association monthly newsletter has been faithfully produced by Tim Sickle for over 25 years. The members contribute the reviews so they tend to be written by modelers that are very similar with the subject matter. Having owner five real 72-73 Mustangs I view the AMT and MPC kits of that era with a very critical eye with the assumption the builder would want to build a replica stock model.

It was filled in on the Boss. Shinoda did not want fake scoops on his car.

Diecast model 1/24

69 and 70.

The biggest difference are the front end (four headlights vs. two) and the tail lights are very different. If you want to make a 69 Boss 302 T/A you could use the MPC kit. I've avoided making a 69 Boss due to the complexity of the paint scheme. I had a 70 Boss T/A I've had in progress of years and it's stalled due to converting the engine compartment from a street car to a race version. Whichever you do good luck. There are many pictures of the 69 and 70 Bosses from back in the day and what they look like now at vintage races.

Check out the November issue of the MAMA newsletter for a review of the reissued annual MPC kit. www.mamasboyz.org

Check out the November issue of the MAMA newsletter for a review of the reissued annual MPC kit. www.mamasboyz.org