vamach1

Of course that side stripe on the box art is not "stock." Let's just say I'm not holding my breath for any improvements in this version. A set of 73 only factory aluminum wheels would be cool but that's not going to happen.

Oh heck yes. I still have my 72 351C Mach1.

Underside of Diamonds are Forever Mach1. Note chrome trim between red and black.

I'll add some comments to the discussion. The main difference between 71-72 and 73 Mustangs is the front bumper and gille. Mixing the 73 larger bumper (Boss 351 kit) with the sport lamp 71/72 grille is flat out wrong. 71/72 Mustangs had a narrow chrome number (including the Boss) except for the Sprints and Mach1 that had the urethane bumper. All 73s had the larger urethane bumper and Mach1 and non Mach1 grilles. The 71/72 had either a stock grills except for the Boss, sprints and Mach1 that had the sport lamp grille. As far as both kits go, neither has anything resembling the correct 351C (Boss or 2v or 4v Cleveland) or 429 CJ or SCJ engines. The molded in chrome trim is correct for a Mach1 that came without the side stripes on the 71/72. Off course the molded in Mach1 emblems are incorrect but engraved very nicely. All 73's had the Mustang script on the front fenders. The 71/72 Mach1 and 71 Boss did not have any Mustang scripts, only the black or argent decals. You pointed out many other "flaws" in the body. If you are building anything other than a coupe I'd recommend adding the side sport mirrrors. The engine compartment is almost a lost cause not having a brake booster, washer fuild container, shock tower braces much less realistic fender wells. The exhuast system on all the kits is correct. There should be a single exhaust system (6 cyl up to the 351C 2v) and dual exhuast with mufflers, not resanotors or a transverse muffler. None of the 71-73 Mustangs had vents in the rear of the hood. The honeycomb rear panel ea only on the Mach1. The Grande had a plain black panel and the standard models were body color. The area on the Boss was painted black or argent. One some other posts I've shown some parts I have had to cast to rememdy some of these issues and Missing Link resin has some really nice chrome bumpers and correct 71/72 Mach1 and standard grilles. The NACA hood was standard on the Boss and Mach1 and a special order option on a base Mustang. Needless to say you can spend a LOT of time to build a more accurate model of whatever 71-73 Mustang you desire. Whenever I look a my two Danbury Mint models I realize there are light years of difference between the AMT and MPC kits issued 45 years ago and the beautiful DM diecasts. We know the downside, the high cost and lack of color choices (pewter and blue) but they set the bar really high when compared to a bunch of plastic pieces. I would not overlook building a Europa version - Keith Marks has the decals and there were very unique Shelby authorized editions.

Round 2 had a box on display at the NNL East show. I do not recall the release date - nothing on the round2 website.

Superb builds. I built the 1/16 one many years ago and you've inspired me to redo mine that is in pieces.

You may want to paint the front soon so the color matches.

Yeah - the NASCAR models that scale have engines.

This one?

You did notice her name right. I do not want to stereotype but I'd guess 95% of car modelers are male.

Are there any support groups out there for people obsessed with a particular year and model of car? On a serious note, I plan to build at least some of theses versions over the coming years. I think I can stop buying any more. On the list are 71 429Mach, Boss 351, Europa, Shelby prototype (fantasy), Drag car (TBD), 72 convertible, coupe, Yellow Mach1 like mine, Bond Mach1, stock car, sprint fastback, 73 mach1, fastback, Eleanor, Warren Tope racer and Endurance racer (SPA). A future post will show all the parts I've collected to build some of these as close to factory stock as possible.

I think the picture is from the 75/80 drag way in Maryland. It's in a spot where there are no bleachers in the background. There is a guardrail and that's about it. It's a 1/4 mile track that goes uphill at the end.

BUMP. Anyone?? Bueller ..... I may have to resort to making an 73 Eleanor and a 72 based upon the 67 Shelby version with scoops, etc.

Grabber green is a nice color for a Boss 429.

Does anyone know if the Minuteman car was real? I have only been able to find pictures of the model and not an actual car. I have found pictures of a couple other 71 Mustang pro stock racers but not the Minuteman. Also, does anyone know where I can get decals for any of these Mustangs? I would like to build at least one as I have all the parts for several 71/72 Mustangs including the stock grille from Detriot Resin Group.

At the All Ford show in Carlisle PA.

Do you know where I can get the decals?

Do you have the decals? The hood is available from Southern Motorsports Hobbies.

I'm afraid so as far as the engine compartment goes. With a correct 351 or 429 engine from another kit and the engine compartment scoured from a kit that has shock towers you can make a pretty nice replica, especially with Keith Marks Boss or Mach1 or Sprint decals. If you're going to build a road racer or dirt track car then you can get more creative.

I have to hand it to some people - they want a trophy so bad they arrive at a show an hour before cars are allowed to park on the show field and they sit by their car all day and only get up to go vote (usually before the registration even closes) and maybe go to the bathroom. They might have a car they have owned for decades and have spent many hours working on or they may have gone to a dealer and bought a brand new car that wil compete against the aforementioned classic. I personally believe any car less than five years old should not be allowed in a show that does not distinguish whether you have a Model T or Ford GT. In judged shows I've seen brand new cars compete against older ones and that does make any sense to me.

I posted two more pictures.

Engine and interior

Very nice and dare I say cute. The variety on this site is what keeps everyone coming back daily.

Thanks for that info. Problem solved.

If a diecast model is already assembled there would not be anything to do except take it apart and perhaps paint it another color or detail it. There are Unassembled diecasts which are usually prepainted and do not require the level of effort of a plastic or resin kit. Resin kits are made in small batches and may be a complete body or just a body or a transit. The caster makes the parts you need to combine with a pre-existing plastic kit to make something is not available as a kit from the current major kit manufacturers. Metal kits have their limitations (thick castings) but for a quick build a prepainted body can reduce assembly time a lot. I'd guess most modelers prefer plastic or resin (more expensive) to build something unique in the color they want and resin models provide the opportunity to build a model of a kit long out of production without collector prices. This a a broad simplification but it gives you an idea of the breadth of the hobby.