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jbwelda

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Everything posted by jbwelda

  1. best thing to do is do your own research on ebay. another option is to put them on ebay for a relatively low starting price and allow the audience to set their "value". if you are set on getting rid of them this will probably be the most efficient way and most will find their true value. jb
  2. if anyone is interested, right now on ebay the Revell Grease double kit of the Triumph and BSA are available buy it now for 50$ plus approx. 10 shipping. basically a great deal, and the kit appears pretty mint. check it out if you want to pick up these parts packs motorcycles http://www.ebay.com/itm/Revell-Grease-2-1-25-scale-BSA-and-Triumph-Motorcycle-kit-MIB-/291288723603?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item43d2293093 jb
  3. >Bantams were American made yes I knew that. thank you. jb
  4. white glues are slow, that's true. but I usually got a number of things going on at once so I set up whatever I am test fitting with some elmers in the joints and let it dry while I work on something else. the problem is when it is dry it can be very brittle and often things just break apart before I can really see what i want to see. if I am in a hurry or need more durability, I will use the CA + kicker thing and then break it apart again within an hour or two, before it really sets up. jb
  5. in general, you can hardly go wrong with Tamiya. other stuff...test. jb
  6. I would love an Amphicar...Ma's Resin is supposedly working on a resin kit. how about a stock Bantam roadster: you said funky, right? and how about an MGTF, never done in 1/24 to my knowledge aside from the Southeastern Finecast metal kit:
  7. elmers is good if you don't have to stress the glued joints. I also use just a tiny bit of superglue usually followed by some zip kicker. that leaves a joint that is ok for fitting and short term but can easily be broken apart without damaging the parts and with minimal cleanup. jb
  8. yeah I wish I could think of kool color combos like that. the orange really makes it but the gunmetal looks great too and the contrast of the two really pops. jb
  9. thanks for bringing this up again. I should post some new pics, its finished and looks considerably better than those in progress photos I posted. it was a fun little build with the added challenge of it being a clear body. I did scratch build the interior though, what came with the kit was cringeworthy. jb
  10. that's awesome! heres a picture so everyone doesn't have to flood your fotki page jb
  11. yep the rally version of the mini cooper I believe. and its already got a Hemi in it. 2 cylinder style. jb
  12. now that was a leap. jb
  13. why would you want to use revell's body on a Tamiya chassis instead of the Tamiya body? I guess if its a different model or year you need that's understandable but I just don't think you are going to get more accurate than Tamiya and certainly not from Revell. jb
  14. its going to totally melt it away. only option to redoing the putty work is not to chemically strip the paint, but instead sand it off or something. brake fluid MIGHT work and easy off oven cleaner might work, but there are no guarantees. I would think easy off would be the best choice since the removal technique I know using it only involves the fumes from the oven cleaner, not really direct contact. jb
  15. >I have never gotten a torn-up issue of MCM. I have subscribed for two years hey good for you! now don't try to minimize other peoples bonafide experiences, please. thank you. jb
  16. ah you probably got it. look for a pile of torn up paper stuffed in the back of your mailbox. that's why I no longer subscribe jb
  17. stalled and sold for 850 jb
  18. >I think that's what millwrights are for? do you mean to retool the kits from scratch? I would think if there were already molds available one would use them and if it required some adaptation, they would attempt to adapt. making new tools must be expensive, so it seems to me if they were to tool up new tools they would not do straight reissue sort of tools, they would improve the old ones either with more detail or corrections to errors in the original. kind of like the Sizzler/Slingster deal. or do you mean the millwrights would do the adapting of the old molds to new technology? jb
  19. >I'm so glad I'll be gone before that pretend reality becomes reality. that horse is already out of the barn and you are a seemingly willing participant. its just a matter of degree. the frog never realizes the water is getting hot until it is too late. jb
  20. I use imageshack and also the little picture icon above the reply box and no problems. make sure you are using a direct link (url) to the photo and that it has a ".jpg" suffix on the file. jb
  21. well from looking at the cover, it appears to be the feb/mar 2014 issue, #184, and then below proclaimed to be the CONTEST ISSUE 2014. based on those observations, I would say they were one and the same. jb
  22. I KNEW I forgot to tighten something down! jb
  23. I would consider the chopper especially if it were a early 60s HA sort of rat bike without a big extended front end, but with a nice rake to the front frame tube. could probably get a few different versions out of something like that jb
  24. no kidding. especially considering it was meant to be run with a puny little electric motor and here the guy is running it into the ground with a big torquey power drill. and the V8 at least really kept up pretty well. better than a lot of the motors in the other video! jb
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