10thumbs

Hi Clayton. So no riding the clutch in your cabin, right?

Hi Mark, I kind of understand what you write. Like shifting a car going down a hill. No load on the motor and you can easily slip into the next gear.

Hi Truckers, I'm not in your league, my older brother has a license though and is out West on the road at this moment. I like this video, and the truck, and the sound. What is "floating the gears"? Diesels are cool. Michael

Bill, you're off to a good start getting back. Say metal foil? I hear that!

Hi Greg, Painting with an airbrush involves lots of factors. Acrylic, enamel, lacquer? I've had best results with all of these with an 0.5mm tip and a healthy amount of air pressure, the thing should hiss when the button is pushed. Thin paint too! Lots of guys will reply, since no one has, I'll do it now. For Alclad and other specialty paints, a thinner tip is needed or else the paint will just run out of the tip when you tilt the fugger. Trial and error is the key word. You'll get it, not to worry. Just a little practice and you're set to go. Michael

Hello Bob, 1:10, wow. What source do you 1:10 guys have for parts, tires and wheels and things? Do you do it all scratch? The clear body looks promising.

I think Joe has Zap-A-Gap-itis. The things just aren't attached yet. Actually, not a bad idea! I think attaching the radius rods to the front axle is the biggest pita, along with 4 bars on the rear axle that a build can offer. Geez, I need an extra pill to get that job done. Talk about screwing around....

Joe, my cup runneth over. I like the crimped ends on the rods, this will work well and look good and clean too. Good job. I like the way you're going with this project.

Excellent. Thanks for the info. Nicely done.

Hi Bruno, a very good looking model. Super clean and well photographed too. What are your impressions of the Polar Lights kit, I don't have a clue about these kits? Nice finish on the wheels. How did you do these?

Really a nice cleanly built car. I especially like the finish on the tires, makes the model look real.

Oh no! Folks, another guy is getting hooked. Brad, now you're really cooking. Wanna bet? No lookin' back now. Congrats upon your achievement.

Well done Dominik! You have a nice touch with styrene, and the paint fits the car very nicely. Clean build with good detailing. Even the hood fits! Michael

Hello Carl, a very Happy Birthday to you!

Oh Brad, I read you loud and clear....tweezers popping and away it goes. Wait till you get on a few years. Geez, I lost a hub that I'd cast in metal, the thing is big enough to see from 10 feet too. The new motor I'm working on, metal front plate....all gone. @Joe, man what you doin' with a night light in your hobby room? I thought they were in the hallway when kids and old folks are around. lol.

Guys, lots of good hobbies here and I enjoyed looking through the replies. I'm really nuts about Vespa scooters. They're a thrill to ride! I still do daily if weather permits. Lets read more of what you guys do!

Joe, good the ride height is adjustable, those fat Hemis have some weight to deal with. The stance looks fantastic and the wheels are great, well done.

....loose screws. lol. Brad, now you're cookin', and this rig will really start to rock now. I'll bet at every single stage you're thinking how cool this build is. You are right. The metal makes it and your choice of connections and how you carry them out is top notch and as Joe relates, it's fun to watch. Be proud.

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The "Cacklefest" site has a wealth of info, as you've already gathered.

Joe, that's a fine looking wheel. Nothing looks more like metal than metal. It looks right. Uhh, about all of those metal looking pieces you show....Dude, are all those pieces from your roof? Does it rain often in your area?

I'd like to give these wheels a shot too. Are they now available in 1:25?

Tom, it's good that you douse the object in the alcohol solution prior to painting. This solution neutralizes the surface caused from mechanical manipulation, which incurs for instance after sanding the surface. You don't even need to spray the solution, this may even be counterproductive. But if it works for you this is just fine. You can also paint the alcohol/water solution with a big soft brush, then air dry (compressed air for instance). The trick is to get lots of alcohol/dist. water on the surface. Even submerging the unit will do fine. Models are small, and the solution is cheap. I don't see a specific need for treating a wooden spray box unless the object gets particles even after the solution has been applied. A positively charged surface will attract unwanted particles to paint even into a box. Similar to the magnetic action when a magnet is placed near a steel object, they will meet. The crud flies in curves too. So why not just go and spray the place with the same stuff? It won't hurt. I tried before this treatment; painting things while laying on my back! The dang hard-as-steel particles still adhered to the roof, even though the sucker was upside down! Don't want it! Don't need it! I don't know if things non-conducting can attract unwanted stuff. This is not important right now. Safe is important. At any rate, the box will be freed of dust if you give it a shower too. The solution is cheap, and foolproof. Good luck. Michael

Looking god Doug! Nick, he doesn't have any at this time, maybe in January.

Hi Phil, I'm not familiar with these paints, but I checked out their website and read the paint is water based, and recommended is a 0.5mm tip with around 40-50lbs. pressure. This tells me there is nothing special about the paints, meaning in the normal ranges. I have no idea about how the stuff needs to be thinned, but it should be fairly runny for airbrush application. Get some plastic picnic spoons or plastic coffee cups and get practicing. Unpack that air brush and get on with it!