65slotcar

i have attended many vintage car events at Laguna Seca and Sears Point, but can't remember seeing more then 2 at one event. i know i have seen 3 of them at different times.

thanks Ralph, i used half round plastic strips by evergreen scale models for the trim and use plastruct bondene to glue in place. the strips are really flexible and i glue about 1 inch of trim at a time

great detail and work so far. what race car are you building? a little late now, but you could have purchased wheels from Randy at modelbuilderswh.com Bill

back on this project from almost a year ago. made side doors and added trim. using wooden strips to make the flatbed platform.

Your welcome MP , glad i could help. those pipettes are great, i don't use primer or base coats that needs to be mixed, but if you did these pipettes have a 1-2-3 ML measurements on the side of them. also great for airbrush clean-up. after running lacquer thinner through airbrush, i take out needle and with trigger pulled i use these pipettes to drop small droplets of lacquer thinner into the cup (gravity feed) the drops mix with the air almost like a carburetor and pulls the left over paint out of the airbrush. just give it a try and you will see what i mean.

Zeropaints are pre-thinned and i never had to reduce them. just shake until you hear the marble rattle and then shake a bunch more. one thing i didn't mention is the use of transfer pipettes. after shaking bottle very well i use these pipette to get paint from bottle to airbrush. super cheap on e-bay about $8.00 for 100

The last time i ordered from Hiroboy i made sure i ordered a bunch of paint to make it worth while. But shipping was almost more then the cost of paint. There service is great and received paint fairly quick. Not sure why the guy in video is applying coats with no flash time, maybe just to speed-up video. i go by Zeropaints web site, spray at 15-40 psi and 5-10 minutes flash time between coats. i use a distant heat lamp so i go only 5 minutes flash between coats. you want as few coats as possible with base coats because they are going to dry flat and need clear anyway. heavy coats just bury the detail like trunk and door lines. so i just spray many light coats just to get full color nothing else.

not sure what you mean by hot, (melting plastic or drying fast) i do know that if you spray zeropaints primer too wet it will crack when dry, so you want dry mist coats. ZP-3001 is a filler primer and does a great job of filling scratches and minor imperfections. Hiroboy.com still has it in stock, maybe a little pricey on shipping. bottle is 120ML and you can spray a lot of model bodies from 1 jar. if you go with Mr. Surfacer primer just test on a plastic spoon like others have suggested.

the last one of a group build.

thanks MP, so most manufacturers say all primers should work fine with there product and that may be true, but i like to stick with the same company for primer and base coat. i brake the rule when i clear coat and use House of Kolor clear. i have never really payed attention to how close i spray , but would say about 4-6 inches away. i try my best to cover everything in one pass per coat. another note, i like to use these spring loaded body stands and i use a hobby spray booth with a heat lamp near by if it is cold out. i lay down fresh newspaper every time i use spray booth and it really helps to keep model clean when spraying.

i'm sure all these steps have been gone over, but this is my process. #1 wash body in mild dish soap before i do anything to the body. #2 sand body in 400 grit and clean plastic flashing and wash again with mild dish soap. #3 prime with Zeropaints ZP-3001. #4 Sand any bad spots with 800 grit and give body a light scuff with grey scuff pad. #5 base coat using Zeropaints . i use a cheap Iwata Neo airbrush and it works great . i run a higher pressure then most at 40 psi but i only pull back trigger on airbrush about 30-50%. but i'm sure 20psi at full trigger should work great. #6 after decals applyed i use Automotive House Of Kolor clear. about 4-5 super light coats at first to make sure decals don't get destroyed. then final coats are applyed meduim to heavy coats. i love using Zeropaints, sprays smooth and dries super fast. so like others have said, very important to wash mold release agent from body and have a good primer on body before base coats. Bill

thanks guys there is still about 10 more versions i have not done, but may do a couple more down the road.

ok, i almost never tell this story because it's like seeing a UFO. In 1991 i'm riding my mountain bike in a residential area San Carlos California. Parked in front of someones house is a truck and trailer with this car in this condition . i know .....the odds of seeing a UFO are much higher and does not jive with story of this car hidden away somewhere in Los Angeles since the 60's. but there was no mistaking this car and why would you make a replica of a thrashed race car.

almost to the end of this project, one more after this one.

great work so far and cold air box is a cool detail . a comparison of airbox 1965 deep and 1964 shallow. Bill

2 more from team Corvette build.

thanks , Corvette is HRM transkit to make a full kit . Shelby hauler is a modified AMT Ford c-600 full kit with engine and a scratch built flat bed. i don't remember if i started a topic on it. thanks , i'm not sure if it's Penske blue but looks close to me. i used Zeropaints Lola t70 Royal blue part# ZP-1054 (over light grey primer)

thanks guys and great pictures Rex. it's great to see these cars un-restored

thanks guys. Phil , i hear you on the required discipline, like most if not all model builders it's not easy to finish a project when you have many other un-built model kits you would like to start or finish. i started this flat bed Shelby hauler about a year ago and will try to finish after all the Corvettes are done.

second Corvette done , HRM transkit. V-R-M decals.

looking great so far!

thanks guys blue for stripes was airbrushed using Zero Paints Ford and Chevy engine blue part # ZP-1395. you will enjoy this one, the kit comes with parts to build restored Penske Sunoco version also. a headrest behind the driver. also not sure if this Penske car is a replica.

thanks guys for the positive feedback and comments, this was a great kit to build because of how well the parts fit together and very good instructions. You will need a bunch of tiny drill bits for all the bolts that are included, about 14 just for the water pump. many of the bolts are brass and i used a product callled Brass Black by Birchwood Casey to make bolts look like a hardened black bolt and not a shiney brass bolt. the headers are a bit of a challenge but you will have fun building this one.

finally got this one done. the design and prototype was done by Mad Mike

thanks Mike and great pictures Charles. I have never seen the #45 car. interesting windsheild and front shovel . i have decals to do the 73 car but not 236 and 45.