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Everything posted by jwrass
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Saturday Morning Wake Me Up !!!! Get Up Ottaa That Bed!!!! #1) The people of the earth stood waiting Watching as the ships came one by one #2) What ever colors you have in your mind I show them to you and you see them shine #3) And every time I scratch my nails Down someone else's back I hope you feel it #4) But I kept on looking for a sign In the middle of the night But I couldn't see the light No, I couldn't see the light #5) Put away that gun And this part is simple Try to recognize What is in your mind
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Last Time/ Stones
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Removing Tamiya Tape residue
jwrass replied to aurfalien's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Brian, Ditch the Tamiya!!!!! Here are some tapes we use on a regular basis, with absolutely no problems. They can still leave tape tracks if the paint is to soft. All of these products were designed for custom painting by custom painters to eliminate these types of problems 1) FBS Autografix Semi Transparent 3/4 " $2.80 for 55 yds 2) FBS Proband Orange Fine line 1/16-3/4" 60 yds. price varies by size $5.00 to 15.00 60 yds 3) FBS Poband Green Fine Line 1/16-1/2" 60 yds. '' '' '' '' '' 4) V Tape 1/16" 60 yds $ 8.50 5) 3-M Green Vinyl Fie Line 1/16 - 1/4 60 yds $ 15.75 Ask your self this question? For the very small amount of tape that Tamiya gives you for a ridiculous price. Wouldn't you rather use what the pros use and have enough to build many many models Seem like a no brainer to me!!! All of these products can be found at Coast Airbrush Peace Jimmy "RASS" -
Removing Tamiya Tape residue
jwrass replied to aurfalien's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Brian, Just take your thumb or index finger and rub on it, It should roll up in little balls. Tamiya, The brand everyone raves about!!!! the only thing I use of theirs is their glue. Their are so many great automotive products that people can buy to replace that stuff. if that doesn't work let me know I have some things that can help you from there Keep smiling, it will be ok!! Jimmy "RASS" -
WBW, 1&4 ChrisBcritter TCB One more! Out of the car long hair
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WBW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! #5) Tubbs!!! Artist was Billy Paul #3) Crazy Ed!!! I love the percussion on that tune.
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From Sat am wake up 5930 #1) Only Time Will Tell - Asia. Some knew the tile and not the artist and vise versa! You All win!!! #3) I have to give this one to Capt reverb for being honest! Be near me - ABC
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Vallejo acrylic for brush paitning
jwrass replied to aurfalien's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Brian, Hobby Lobby and Michaels carry basically the same brushes and in many varieties. Their brush sections are second to none and you can use your coupons! Golden Taklon!!!!! -
Henry, Art is absolutely correct! Toby is correct the color is 376c pantone. When he gave the number I looked it up on one of my pantone fan cards I don't know if you know what Pantone is. They are basically the standard of the industry when it come to matching colors for the Graphic Arts and Fashion world among other things. Anyone who works in the graphic arts area work with Pantones matching system on a regular basis. I guess you could say they are the Kleenex of the color world. This is the formula to mix the color, they publish most of their colors in the CMYK format just like a home computer color printer. C= Cyan/ Blue, M= Magenta/ Purplish Red, Y= Yellow, K= Black C=31%, M=O %, Y=100%, K = 27% I would buy the paint that looks most like the CMYK mix and tint from there. I did see a Go Daddy car not to long ago on Randy Ayers forum maybe they can help there. Good luck! Jimmy "RASS" The formula is 31% C
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Wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy Back Wednesday!!!!! 70s. I running a little late today #1) I'm so in love with you Whatever you want to do It's alright with me #2) Well I'm not the kind to live in the past The years run too short and the days too fast #3) First I see you And then you let me go The only time I touch you's when you don't want to know #4) Cop on the corner Look she's start'in to write #5) We meet every day at the same café Six-thirty and no one knows she'll be there
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Vallejo acrylic for brush paitning
jwrass replied to aurfalien's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Brian, I'm surprised you didn't like Dick Blick! I have never been to one of their stores but I have been buying brushes from them for forty years. They make some great liners and striping brushes, Again I have never been in a store. But the Dick Blick line of custom paint brushes are awesome. I have a few of the white brushes but don't care for them (to stiff for me) I prefer the Golden Taklon (still a little stiff but if you use them enough and oil them they take on their own personality and are a great brush) When I dip into my thinner container to get the right consistency I very rarely leave any color behind! It's just like dipping your toes in the pool! Not a cannon ball If you are still concerned have one pot for light colors and one for darker colors. Shot glasses (glass) work great and you can get them the dollar store!!!!! for well, a dollar. Keep working on those paletting skills!!!!! No dip and paint. Get the shape of the brush by dragging through the paint! Your brush paint skills will be so much better and when you see that you can shape the brush to meet the technique you are looking for, the brush will become your friend! Jimmy "RASS" -
Vallejo acrylic for brush paitning
jwrass replied to aurfalien's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Brian, I'm glad you are you using the paletting the process to load your brushes! If the brush doesn't have a properly load of paint you will never get great results. Don't get to hung up on reduction with brushing and don't premix. Dip your brush into the paint and start paletting if you feel to much drag just dip the end of the brush into your thinner and return to the palette and work that thinner into the mix, as you practice this process you will aquire a feel for how the paint should be for what you are trying to do, detail work a little thinner, larger parts thicker. I personally would use Talklon brushes as the are not to stiff or to soft. I use these with water based, oil, urethanes. Taklon is a awesome all around go to brush! I use natural brushes for much of my work but they don't work well with water based paint, they turn to mush. re-tard-er: To cause to move or proceed slowly; delay or impede: to be delayed ( I hope this clears that up!!!! Did we really have to go to dark side with the retarder comment. Jeez) Retarder used to be commonly used back in the lacquer 1:1 refinish days to get the paint to flow longer and to eliminate a condition called Blushing which is a condition that happens on humid days, The basic premise is that as you spray the material the water vapor in the air gets mixed with the paint and you will have a cloudy appearance to the top coat ( it looks like steamy windows) the moisture get trapped because the lacquer dries so fast, This condition can usually be buffed out however a bit a retarder can help on a really humid day. I cringe every time I use it as it can open a real can of worms of paint problems. When I had to use this I would add it in small increments like a 1/2 cap from the can to a qt of paint this is a very small amount of what is recommended. I personally would not use this process and if I did I would add it in very small amounts. A little tip for storing brushes. Always oil you brushes after you have cleaned them, place the oil on the brush, shape the brush with your fingers and lay them flat. I know I know WHAT ABOUT FISH EYES. When you go to use that brush again double clean it with mineral spirts ( I use shot glasses ) you will have a perfectly shaped brush ready to go and no fish eye problems There are brush oils that you can buy but 3&1 works great. Try this process with one of you brushes and use it on a regular basis, in a very short time you will see great improvement on how your brush handles. Keep swinging the brush brothers! Jimmy "RASS" -
Vallejo acrylic for brush paitning
jwrass replied to aurfalien's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Frank, I was wondering if the dehydrators liked anything but water bourn. Based on my suspicion and your experience. You have answered many of my questions. Thank you!! Jimmy "RASS" Brian: Sorry!!!! I didn't mean to highjack your post -
Joe, First, your build is coming along really nice with great subject matter!!! I love it!!!! My two cent on tape tracks. I have been doing 1:1 custom paint for 40 plus years (see profile) It's not unusual for me to do multiple tape outs the same day on many projects. Unfortunately tape tracks will happen, tape tracks are related to the Murphy's law family. I always try to keep my film thickness to a minimum, paints have plastisizers and resins in them, the more material you but down the more plastic you put down, giving you a perfect surface for the tape to attack the finish. I have used every tape out there and they all do it some are just a bit more aggressive than others. By looking at your photos it appears that you have quite a bit of material on the body which may work to your advantage, I would wet sand the tape tracks out or flatten the surface the best you can without sanding past the clear and into the color coat. Being that you use a non catalyzed clear you can reactivate (to a degree) the clear that is already on the body by re-spraying clear, when you recoat put the coats on fairly wet the clear will soften the previous clear and the old and the new will bond together and flow and flatten ( you may have to do this a few times! Sand, Spray, etc) the worst that could happen is that you have to throw it in the pond but it's worth a try to save it. Here are a couple of what I call best practices for successful tape outs. 1) Lay down just enough color to get the coverage you are looking for. 2) Spray two medium wet coats of clear to protect your paint. 3) Tape and spray right away! Meaning: Budget your time so that you can do tape outs, spray paint and remove tape as soon as you have your colors down. 4) You can dull your tape and still get a crisp line by placing your tape on clean tight woven cotton fabric (like T-shirt material) pull it from the cotton and then apply it to the substrate. 5) Remove tape asap!!! When you reach the color you are looking for stop spraying. I remove tape pretty much after I am done with the color! Many times the paint is still wet! Not for the faint of heart! Always try to pull your tape off at 180 degrees to the surface so that the tape has a sheering effect vs just yanking the tape off. When you place your tape down to cover areas to prevent over spray try to stack it so that it comes off with one nice even pull vs picking and poking. Example: When I tape off flames I layer the tape so that I can pull the tape from the inner throat of the flame to the tips in one single pull. In summary You cannot completely eliminate tape tracks when you are working with fresh paint. The more time you have to wait the less likely you will have tape track problems. Also keep in mind not all paint formula are created equal some have more plastisizers or softer resins in them. Some colors are more prone to tape tracks than others. I hope this helps now and in the future. Peace Jimmy "RASS"
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'67 GTO Mr. Unswitchable Funny Car "What If"
jwrass replied to magicmustang's topic in WIP: Drag Racing Models
Gerald, I always like the what if's subject!!!!!1 Great build! Nice touch on the OEM engine color Jimmy "RASS" -
Sean, Congrats on the WIN!!!! Care to share any more pictures the build looks really super sanitary!!! Great Job!!! Jimmy "Rass"
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Vallejo acrylic for brush paitning
jwrass replied to aurfalien's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Just asking???? I don't use any of these products and am not a big fan of the Water based Acrylics (However I am open minded) My question is: Any of you who use food dehydrators to help with curing? How much doe's it help? Most things I have read are positive. As Frank had mentioned durability and handling problems, I have experienced this problem with oil based products too (I think we all have) Be it oil based or water based if the product hasn't dried long enough you are going to have handling problems. Just as mineral spirits or turpentine can be classified as solvents for oil based products. Detergent or Window cleaners could be classified as solvents for water based products. I have the oil based products down to a science! Really curious about the bottled water based products. Peace Jimmy "RASS" -
I have two edits; 5909 #1) Added more lyrics 5930 #3) Same band, I posted the wrong lyrics to the title of the song I was thinking of!!! OPPS
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#4) Capt Reverb That is correct. DCT Dude has some pipes! Never get tired of hearing B,S, & T
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ChrisBcritter......#s 2 & 5. That is are correct sir!!!!!! On # 5 what are those pretty blue lights? Agree!!!Lakeshore Dr is a classic Great Tune Snake..# 1 your 50% right
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Saturday Morning Wake Me Up #1) I see it now Becomes so clear Your insincerity #2) It's my private pleasure Midnight fantasy #3) EDIT: Ever had that feeling almost broke in two Said that you were leaving like you do, you do All my dreams came true last night all my hopes and fears #4) Tail-Shakin' Heart-Breaking' Truckin' Through Town Each and Every Country-Mothers' Son' Hangin' Round' #5) Pretty blue lights along the way help you right on by And the blue lights shinning with a heavenly grace help you right on by
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Snake and Tubbs...... do the tighten up
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New Elapsed Times Magazine on the newsstand today!!!! Killer
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New Elapsed Times on the news stand!!!! Killer