Straightliner59

I would add that, if accuracy is important, to you, study the subject you're doing. Vinyl stripes won't be as shiny as the paint, on a real car. On race cars, all the little contingency decals are applied after everything is painted, so they shouldn't get clear-coated. That said, often, earlier period race cars had some of their contingency markings actually painted on, as were car names, local sponsor names/logos, driver names, etc. Research is paramount! And, it's fun! You just have to be careful not to fall down any rabbit holes (which are also fun!).?

That sounds like a nice piece of decor!

I've been playing around, with this thing. Was supposed to be quick and easy. Apparently, I have to work on that.?

This is really coming along, beautifully, Terry. The stance is perfect! It could not look more like a Stocker!

This is very cool, Dennis! I wish I had your knack for bodywork. Now, these shocks--this illustrates the biggest reason I scratchbuild so much stuff. It's often easier than cleaning up molded kit pieces, it's a helluva lot more interesting and fun than cleaning up those mold lines, and, they always look way better than the kit parts! Beautiful work, sir, as always!

Unquestionably!

I have bought a lot of drills, over the last few years. A time, or two, I have worried that I might have a problem. This thread has made me realize that I am only beginning to get a handle on the problem!? I would like to thank each and every one of you for your support, in this matter...

Always happy to share! We aren't guarding any State Secrets, or anything!?

@tim boyd I think I misunderstood what you asked me about the inserts. The confusion was on my end, not in any way your fault. Once I had primed the panels, I shot them with a mixture of Humbrol Brass and Humbrol Gold from their standard line, cut with lacquer thinner. I overshot that with Tamiya clear orange lacquer. I then masked off the panel areas with Parafilm M, and sprayed them with cheap Walmart Color Place gloss black, straight from the can. Once I'd removed the masks, I dabbed the orange panels with Black Sign Painter's One-Shot, thinned a little with mineral spirits, applied with a torn off bit of natural sponge. Finally, I applied the red borders with One-Shot.

My next project will be fixing up my side cutters! I really enjoy advanced stuff, like drawing wire, etc.

Thanks, Tim. They really are cool-looking dragsters! I sincerely appreciate your kind words, regarding my project. By "inserts" are you referring to where the panels overlap? If so, it took me a while to figure out how to accomplish that, satisfactorily. I ended up doing it like this: I cut brass strip to my desired "profile", smoothed it, and superglued it to the jaws of a sheet metal hand brake. I then aligned and taped the sheet into position, and laid the tool on my biggest anvil and gave it a rap with the ballpeen hammer. It worked out very well!

A while back, I ordered some AWG-sized bits (for my domed set) on Ebay. When I received them, they'd been shipped from a place right around the corner from my work!? Next time, I will just walk over there before work, some day.

Yep, they've been around, forever! I have a couple of their small pinvises that I use more than any others, when the bits are small enough. I'm sure I have a lot of their tools around the shop.

Absolutely! If you're not enjoying it, there's no point to any of this (unless it's your profession). I have known several people who seemed to build mostly for competition. At least half of them don't build, anymore, claiming burnout. I can't even comprehend that.

I use those to fill a hole!?

I've had good luck with Gyros, for many, many years. They're readily available, too.

When I first saw it, I knew that, it might be handy to have around. Turns out, I use it much more frequently than I'd imagined! And, you're correct--its possibilities are greatly expanded by interchanging disc size with punch and depression size. Here's a shot of the tools I have. In case anybody's wondering--insulin syringes are excellent tools for applying liquid cement!

Yes, definitely. My block set has 24 holes/dies from 2.3mm-24mm. I think I found it at HF. The block is a cube, as opposed to the rectangular shape of Allan's, above. It really makes for a nice set of headlights.

Curbside is a model that's built so that you only see what you see, when a real car is sitting "by the curb". No engine (except for parts protruding from the hood), no chassis detail. I generally add some detail to the interior, as well as details to tires and wheels, headlights, turn signals and taillights, master power switches for drag racers, etc. I enjoy building them.. ...

Since I told him about the doming block, I can answer this. I use a punch of the proper size for the headlight, from a set I bought at Harbor Freight. I drop the resulting disc into the chosen "dimple" in the doming block, and use the proper die, for the size. They dome, smoothly. It's the best method for making headlights I've discovered. You could even melt a ball onto a bit of clear, stretched sprue, and put an element in it. That's how I did the Vega and Chevy II, above. I did rectangular headlights for my Monza, by building a little box from strip styrene, and burnishing the foil into it, to dish it. That was a tip that was provided me by Steve Milberry. For aluminum sheet, I use Maid-O-Metal tooling aluminum available at HL.

Yep! Going to be giving this a look! Thanks for sharing! I've seen the cans, but never given it a try.

Here in Colorado, we have legal things for that, that are much safer!? The containers are very handy, as well! I have nothing at all against 3-D printed models. I'd echo what others have said: It's another tool in the box, or another path up the mountain. There are some parts I wouldn't bother trying to do, anymore, due to the superiority of 3-D prints. Carburetors, are a start. Fireball's carbs are unbelievably beautifully detailed. I wouldn't even mess with any others, much less try to build one. While I am certain it could be done, it's not worth the time, or effort. The transformer for the magneto of my Nostalgia Top Fuel car has close to 30 pieces, in it. I am happy with it, but, it's not anywhere close to what a 3-D printer could achieve.

I should have mentioned two-part glazing putty. I forgot it, because I don't do enough custom bodywork to have to use it, very often.

I use super glue and micro balloons, mostly, especially on smaller areas. I also like Milliput, for larger areas, because it can be shaped with a dampened finger. Some guys like super glue with baking soda, but, I think it's too hard, and doesn't sand away as fast as the plastic.

Thank you, Trevor. I appreciate that! Thanks, Tim! That means a lot, to me!