Straightliner59

Excellent work, Ken. There's something about these older kits, built well, that I find kind of moving. As mentioned, earlier, because they're inspirational, there's some nostalgia, to them, and they're just downright cool!

True enough!?

What would your thoughts be, pertaining to, maybe leaving the plastic coating on unexposed, gluing surfaces of the aluminum flashing I use. I've been sanding it off--and, that's necessary for finish work, but, could that coating be an ally, when it comes to adhering the sheet?

I think it's a lot of fun, to try new techniques. That's why I first attempted a scratchbuilt brass dragster chassis, and why I learned to work sheet aluminum into compound curves. I've thrown a ton of stuff away, that didn't work out. I have a little bin that's marked as a tip of the hat to Burt Munro: Offerings to the gods of scale. My not-so-successful attempts go there, now!? I guess I don't have any excuse not to attempt to mill a set of spindles, now that I think about it! Hmmm...

To add, a little to what Bill said--once the spindles are mounted to the axle, they have the added support of the axle, itself. That virtually eliminates any chance of the "tabs" flexing, and weakening the joints. Our models aren't typically in high-stress environments--except during transport.? I also flow a bit of CA over the joints, once the solvent's cured a while. It's worked out, pretty well!

3-D printing would be the only way to get that taper, as well.

I enjoyed that, as well! It was a privilege to see and hold this Maserati. Your bodywork was a joy to see! You can certainly be proud of that!

The best thing about using a two-part catalyzed putty, is that there's virtually no shrinkage. That's preferable, especially in larger areas, like custom bodywork. For general filling of sink marks, etc., most standard fillers will work just fine!

If I don't find what I went to the hobby shop for, specifically, I always buy some building materials. Especially when I see the K&S Special Shapes rack. I snag up the 1/32" and 3/64" brass tubing, anytime I see it! Last time I was there, they had K&S square aluminum tube in 3/32" and 1/8", neither of which I'd seen, before. Anyhoo...you can never go wrong investing in materials (or tools!).?

I little weathering from the track would be wonderful. The repairs, and the new color look great!

I love them. I think you did a great job, capturing the motion and energy! Nice work!

Here in the Denver area, there used to be what was probably the greatest model railroad store in the country--Caboose Hobbies. My friend, Don and I spent hours, in that place looking at different castings and machined parts. He started using the handrail stanchions, and told me about them. I have used them, since. There is no telling how much money I spent, in that place on materials and supplies, alone! Alas, while the name still exists (I think), it's not really even a shadow of its former greatness. I agree--whatever works, I'll use it! If I don't have it, thankfully, I mostly have the ability to make it with round stock, and PCB bits in the lathe. I always have my eyes open for building materials, no matter the source. I've made steering axles from brass and plastic, both--it depends on what the rest of the project requires. If I'm going for quick and easy, I'll generally use plastic. My Nostalgia Top Fuel dragster has brass components, up front. The attached are a Monogram Model A Coupe, I'm working on--well, was--and will be again, at some point.

That will truly be a joy, to watch!

Very nice, Dennis! Dig the Minnesota plate, too!

MPC, 1/25th.

For tie rod ends and heim joints, I almost exclusively use HO scale handrail stanchions. When I built the steering for my Nostalgia Top Fuel dragster, I milled them, for the first time. That can easily be accomplished with a file, as well. I use 3/64" brass tube for the tie rods. For the longer shafts/rods on the NTF car, I used .040" aluminum armature wire that I bored on the lathe, to accept the stanchions.

I would add that, if accuracy is important, to you, study the subject you're doing. Vinyl stripes won't be as shiny as the paint, on a real car. On race cars, all the little contingency decals are applied after everything is painted, so they shouldn't get clear-coated. That said, often, earlier period race cars had some of their contingency markings actually painted on, as were car names, local sponsor names/logos, driver names, etc. Research is paramount! And, it's fun! You just have to be careful not to fall down any rabbit holes (which are also fun!).?

That sounds like a nice piece of decor!

I've been playing around, with this thing. Was supposed to be quick and easy. Apparently, I have to work on that.?

This is really coming along, beautifully, Terry. The stance is perfect! It could not look more like a Stocker!

This is very cool, Dennis! I wish I had your knack for bodywork. Now, these shocks--this illustrates the biggest reason I scratchbuild so much stuff. It's often easier than cleaning up molded kit pieces, it's a helluva lot more interesting and fun than cleaning up those mold lines, and, they always look way better than the kit parts! Beautiful work, sir, as always!

Unquestionably!

I have bought a lot of drills, over the last few years. A time, or two, I have worried that I might have a problem. This thread has made me realize that I am only beginning to get a handle on the problem!? I would like to thank each and every one of you for your support, in this matter...

Always happy to share! We aren't guarding any State Secrets, or anything!?

@tim boyd I think I misunderstood what you asked me about the inserts. The confusion was on my end, not in any way your fault. Once I had primed the panels, I shot them with a mixture of Humbrol Brass and Humbrol Gold from their standard line, cut with lacquer thinner. I overshot that with Tamiya clear orange lacquer. I then masked off the panel areas with Parafilm M, and sprayed them with cheap Walmart Color Place gloss black, straight from the can. Once I'd removed the masks, I dabbed the orange panels with Black Sign Painter's One-Shot, thinned a little with mineral spirits, applied with a torn off bit of natural sponge. Finally, I applied the red borders with One-Shot.