Straightliner59

If you're from out-of-town, Scale Model Supplies is a must see! And, once you've seen, you're sure to happily give them some of your money!

I'm not sure that's much of an option. They're already radiused in the kit, and to open them further would put me into the trim. I kind of want to keep that. I appreciate your thoughts, Ace. Thanks!

Thanks, David! I just finished milling the second one, a bit ago. I think I have the door thing solved, as well--I hope so, I almost have one of them finished!?

I am a believer in "one can never have too many drill bits"!?

Not a big update...I have been trying to sort out the interface between the inner and outer door panels. I may have it figured out. These strips of styrene white glued to the outer side of the inner panels will tell the tale. I probably won't get a chance to work on them until tomorrow, some time, once the glue's had time to dry. Also, I have started playing around with the manifold. It's Weiand, and has different-looking throttle bodies/runners. This will likely end up like the Enderle small-block stacks I did--make one good one, then mold it! Anyway, this photo shows them, in rough form, opposite the Hilborns, on the other side. As always, comments and questions are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!

Gloss under the decals should cure it!

I have a whole bunch of HSS, as well. I bought some Chinese bits, at one point, but they were so hit and miss, that I just buy US made ones, mostly, now. I've started buying all that stuff, in bulk. The carbide bits do work best in the machines, for sure. And, they do grab, when they exit. I'm too lazy to switch bits!? My favorite quality of the carbide bits, is that they don't "walk", when starting a hole. That makes them excellent for boring round or hex stock. When I got my flashing, it was a bundle of 100 5"X7" sheets. I don't know how many are left, but I've used a ton of it! A fair amount of it has ended up in the trash ?, but there's a whole lot of it in my display case, now! If I recall, correctly, it's about .007", once the coating has been sanded off.

Jack did these for me, many years ago!

Thanks, Roger! I liked it, before, but being able to fine tune it with the shackles really got it just right! I was playing around on my machines, and made this spindle. It really operates smoothly with no slop. Now, I just have to remember the exact steps I used, to make another! Sorry the photos are fuzzy. Here are a couple of the interior, coming together--door bars installed! Thanks for looking!

I am all-too-familiar with doing things multiple times! One of the things I have always liked about building with brass, is the speed at which stuff can be assembled, and its immediate durability. Even though I have a resistance soldering unit that I am extremely happy to have, there are still times that the old Weller 40 watt iron is the better tool. I'm happy you've been able to gather some useful stuff from my posts! I am always glad to share!

That's one thing I like about my gravity-feed brush. It is way easier to clean, no matter the paint! I just got a really great deal on a Badger 150-4, that should be here, Saturday. I bought it for the extra capacity of the bottles, for doing larger projects, like the paint coming up on my Badman.

I've had good results with Gofer's decals, but I think their contingency "stickers" are a bit too large. Although I have heard some say they've had problems with some of Slixx's sheets, I've always had good luck, with them. I like that they have things like chassis certs, blower belt markings, etc. I am going to look at some of the other suggestions, here, though! Thanks, all, for sharing them!

Thank you, David! Hey, why not, right?? It's actually pretty easy. I did my first set in about 1975 with an MPC '68 'Cuda. When I do the assembly, I'll super glue them, but, it's nice to have the option while determining final ride height.

If Andy does these, for your model, you know you've done good!?

Do you, by any chance mean silvering? That occurs with decals over flat paint. Armor and Aircraft modelers will usually shoot a coat of gloss, before applying decals, then flat coat, afterwards, to eliminate silvering, which occurs because of air trapped between the decal film, and the rough, uneven surface of matte paint. I don't know if that's what you're experiencing, but it sounds like it might be?

In order to help me feel like I'm getting somewhere, with this (although, looking around the bench shows I've done quite a bit of work), I painted and assembled the rear suspension--mostly. I dropped the rear a hole on the shackles. I like this better! I just installed the door bars, but don't have photos, yet. The front axle is too long. I made a new one, from brass. I'm going to attempt to mill a set of spindles, inspired by Francis' beautiful work, and a desire, just to see if I can do it! I laid the trac bars in place, too. Questions, critiques and comments are always welcome. Thanks for looking!

Thank you, Francis. I have gotten better about not breaking them, using them, manually, but, the lathe and mill are where they really shine! I have been amazed at the small size of stock I've been able to bore, with the lathe. I have ended up with a couple in those lots that are finer than a hair! I don't think a standard Sherline (without the high-RPM package) will turn fast enough to use them. I really am happy to have found them, to be sure!

You know what? You are absolutely right. I had forgotten that.

Excellent fabrication, Francis! That's a real gem, my friend! Will be looking forward to updates, as your time allows.

Thank you, Alex! Glad you love it!?

Thank you, Bob! I'm really happy with it!

I like it, Ken! I could see a case for either set of wheels/tires. The '32s look good!

I appreciate it, my friend! I really enjoy doing tinwork!

Glad to help! It might be my favorite hobby shop, ever.

It's been a while, since I was there, but there were quite a few vendors, as I recall. Also--you have to go to Scale Model Supplies, in St. Paul, while you're in the area. You can thank me, later!?