Straightliner59

It's been nearly fifty years, since I had any tube glue, excepting epoxies or GS Hypo cement. I haven't found any situation in which model tube cement would be the best option.

How thick are they? It looks like I may need to make new ones.

Well, I could see these valve covers, that I really wanted to use, just weren't tall enough for the cam I plan to install!? Mine are only about an inch thick, though. Your printed head looks excellent! Adding little, authentic details, is such an enjoyable part of this hobby, for me! Stuff like this, is stuff I've seen and thought it would be cool, to do, in the right place. Some guys just throw stuff at their models, because they can--I like to think it through, a bit. Racers don't put stuff on their cars that isn't necessary, mostly. I try to follow that, even though I've never been on a crew, or anything. I've known a ton of racers, though, and getting it right, has always been important!

I'm watching all of these, on Ebay, now! I just missed one of the first Monogram Mustangs (Ford Motorsports) that went for $15. I'm not in any hurry, so, I'll wait until I find another at a good price. I originally bought the Escort, because I was interested in the Minilites. It's such a pretty kit, I just couldn't. I could never find the engine upgrade kit, available/in-stock. I think one of those DOHC four-bangers would be a nice option. If I do a street/road car, I may even see if I can get the turbo setup, in it.

I am having a blast, with it! Mine's becoming an Altered class racer. Enjoy!

I saw a Wienermobile driving on NB I-225, in Aurora, CO.?

Front looks good! Back needs lowered, still, but, I reckon you know that!?

Like you said, in spite of its shortcomings, I think it's one of the coolest kits, ever! I'm working on one, right now, myself. Nice job!

Nice work! Especially making that body look like an actual funny car!

(Minnesota??)Nice!

Thanks! I appreciate that!

A couple of things I've been fiddling around with. I got the valve covers done, mostly. I turned a new breather cap, and used a loop of Detail Master detailing wire to make a grommet. The new one, alongside an original (albeit not quite the same, as I'd always assumed they were). Thinking maybe I should have just left it alone!? I also made some aluminum spacers for them, to allow for more "rump-rump"! I also got started on the, well...starter. Thanks for looking!

Thanks, Les! I kind of thought there might be some shared lineage, along the line. Kit bashing isn't a deal-breaker, at all! I'll be looking for the Revell/Italeri Escort, too, then. No idea when I would get around to it, but, since the idea crossed my mind, I figured somebody here would know! Revell USA did a JPS car, back in the late '80s-early '90s. I don't recall if that was a Mustang or a Capri. I knew they were making crazy horsepower, with those things. To think it was almost 40 years ago!

That's cool! But, I was thinking of the earlier GT Mustangs (Ford, Miller). I think they had Zakspeed fours, in them.

I always have a bottle on the bench. It works fine for plastic to plastic (styrene). It's a little slow. I like to speed it up a tad by mixing it with Weld-on 4, but, it's fine, by itself.

Has anyone considered and/or tried one of the engines from one of the Monogram IMSA Mustang kits? I would look for myself, but I don't have any of the Mustangs, on hand. I was thinking of maybe a privateer, or a weekend racer/badass street car. Any input would be appreciated, before I spring for a Mustang--although, I have been keeping an eye on them, anyway.

I concur with the above. If you're "duplicating" virtually any natural metal surface, clear coats are generally detrimental to the finish, and best avoided. Although flat coats work well in the case of cast metal finishes.

The best part about the decal film, is you can keep at it, until you're happy with it! I think I drew this with a pencil, first, then used a brush, and some One-Shot enamel.

Same, here!

Yessir! And, they'll get better and better! Did you do the hand lettering on the car, or on some decal film. If the former, try getting some clear decal film, and letter on that. It's much easier than doing it on the car. That's how I did the "Conrad's" on this dragster (the "Engine Service" was done with model RR lettering from Microscale.).

Love these little H-bodies! Also like that you did something with the wheels. I've seen so many nice models, over the years, where the wheels look like an afterthought--just stuck on the model, with nothing done, to them. Good job, by you!

Spoons are a good way to test paint compatibility, but, you should test paint on the sprue from the kit, to be sure the paint's compatible, with that. I have successfully used Krylon clear over just about everything. It's fine over the Testors lacquers, so, it's probably safe over Tamiya's, as well, but a spoon test would be in order, to be sure!

Nice! Body looks excellent! Great tip with the model RR windows, too! I have used a ton of railroad modeling items, over the decades. HO handrail stanchions are still my go to, for rod ends/heim joints. Nut/bolt/washer castings, too.

Man, I use all kinds of stuff! For bonding styrene, I use Weld-On 4 (straight), the same, cut about 50-50 with Testors liquid cement, and straight Testors. I use them differently, depending on the situation, and working time needed. I use both thin super glue, and gel super glue from Loctite. I prefer contact cement for gluing sheet metal (but, most have no need, for that). I also recently started using GS Hypo Cement. It's clear and non-fogging, and can be used for "glass".

Finally got the motor mounts sorted out. Tacky-glued everything back together. Everything seems to be playing very nicely, together! Front shocks and mounts, next. Then after a couple of final items, I can take it apart one last time, and clean it all up and paint it. I think.? Comments and questions are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!