Straightliner59

Thanks, Les! I kind of thought there might be some shared lineage, along the line. Kit bashing isn't a deal-breaker, at all! I'll be looking for the Revell/Italeri Escort, too, then. No idea when I would get around to it, but, since the idea crossed my mind, I figured somebody here would know! Revell USA did a JPS car, back in the late '80s-early '90s. I don't recall if that was a Mustang or a Capri. I knew they were making crazy horsepower, with those things. To think it was almost 40 years ago!

That's cool! But, I was thinking of the earlier GT Mustangs (Ford, Miller). I think they had Zakspeed fours, in them.

I always have a bottle on the bench. It works fine for plastic to plastic (styrene). It's a little slow. I like to speed it up a tad by mixing it with Weld-on 4, but, it's fine, by itself.

Has anyone considered and/or tried one of the engines from one of the Monogram IMSA Mustang kits? I would look for myself, but I don't have any of the Mustangs, on hand. I was thinking of maybe a privateer, or a weekend racer/badass street car. Any input would be appreciated, before I spring for a Mustang--although, I have been keeping an eye on them, anyway.

I concur with the above. If you're "duplicating" virtually any natural metal surface, clear coats are generally detrimental to the finish, and best avoided. Although flat coats work well in the case of cast metal finishes.

The best part about the decal film, is you can keep at it, until you're happy with it! I think I drew this with a pencil, first, then used a brush, and some One-Shot enamel.

Same, here!

Yessir! And, they'll get better and better! Did you do the hand lettering on the car, or on some decal film. If the former, try getting some clear decal film, and letter on that. It's much easier than doing it on the car. That's how I did the "Conrad's" on this dragster (the "Engine Service" was done with model RR lettering from Microscale.).

Love these little H-bodies! Also like that you did something with the wheels. I've seen so many nice models, over the years, where the wheels look like an afterthought--just stuck on the model, with nothing done, to them. Good job, by you!

Spoons are a good way to test paint compatibility, but, you should test paint on the sprue from the kit, to be sure the paint's compatible, with that. I have successfully used Krylon clear over just about everything. It's fine over the Testors lacquers, so, it's probably safe over Tamiya's, as well, but a spoon test would be in order, to be sure!

Nice! Body looks excellent! Great tip with the model RR windows, too! I have used a ton of railroad modeling items, over the decades. HO handrail stanchions are still my go to, for rod ends/heim joints. Nut/bolt/washer castings, too.

Man, I use all kinds of stuff! For bonding styrene, I use Weld-On 4 (straight), the same, cut about 50-50 with Testors liquid cement, and straight Testors. I use them differently, depending on the situation, and working time needed. I use both thin super glue, and gel super glue from Loctite. I prefer contact cement for gluing sheet metal (but, most have no need, for that). I also recently started using GS Hypo Cement. It's clear and non-fogging, and can be used for "glass".

Finally got the motor mounts sorted out. Tacky-glued everything back together. Everything seems to be playing very nicely, together! Front shocks and mounts, next. Then after a couple of final items, I can take it apart one last time, and clean it all up and paint it. I think.? Comments and questions are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!

This kit has a nicer chassis than any of the other H-body kits. I have always preferred the MPC bodies. With their promo roots, they're very accurate!

It's frustrating when things go badly, like that! I've had more than one project end up on "the shelf of doom" (RIP, Snake), because of stuff like that. The black looks fantastic, anyway!

This is looking really great, Ian. Excellent work! And, I'm sitting over here, struggling with a dang Badman!?

You have a bunch of cool projects in the works, Ron! Every one of them is interesting. Keep up the great work!

Nice! I have the body and decals for this car. I knew Ted Struse, and stood in his garage, next to this car, more than once! I don't know if you're aware of this, but, Ted Struse founded one of the earliest model car aftermarket companies--MSC Model Products. I'm almost positive he was the first to market things like plug wires, and wire for brake lines, to modelers. Undoubtedly, he was first to make any kind of braided line available for modelers. Originally, he repackaged wrapping wire, for plug wires. It was better than what we didn't have, previously, but the insulation was translucent. It wasn't long, before he found something with opaque insulation. Anyway, I'm rambling. I still have a ton of old MSC stuff, because Ted was always giving stuff to Don Fahrni, and me! There are superior products, now, but, back then, his braided line sure beat trying to feed wire through a length of de-soldering wick, and get it colored silver, without it looking like a mess! Anyway, I'll be watching this!

Thank you, my friend! I still have some work to do, on it, but, I wanted to fix the rear engine mounts, first. The opening in the firewall, for the driveline had to be enlarged, and, still, I had to go back to my original 4-speed trans, because the Lakewood bellhousing is smaller in diameter than that area of the auto. The touch of red color will look good, down in there, too. Thanks, Tony! That stuff sands very easily. I found mine on Ebay. I think if you search "Renshape" to find out what the name for it is, then search that, the pink stuff I have should show, too. I really like working it!

They just look cooler, that way!?

I got the motor mounts installed. I have since removed the rear ones--they need to be lowered about 3/32". I discovered that, once I'd slipped the trans onto the main shaft. Minor setback. I used a .0312" end mill to groove a length of .060"X.125" Evergreen strip. I then closed off one end, so that the motor plates can slip into the channel, and be held in place by the .020"X.060" "stop". Other than that, I need to make the front shock mounts and shocks, and reassemble everything temporarily, one last time, before painting the chassis. Your questions and comments are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!

Definitely looks the part! The stance is perfect!

I got the pan mostly shaped, and got the flange and main seals on. It drops right into place, and even kind of snaps in, in perfect alignment. Blind squirrel! I set the valve covers and manifold in place. Starting to look like an engine! I'm working on a design for the mounts for the chassis. I'm shooting for something that will allow me to simply drop in the block/trans assembly. That will make any subsequent test-fitting much easier. It's getting closer to having paint on the chassis. Thanks for looking!

Don't think I wasn't looking around, for something!? I thought one of the engines from the '67 Corvette, or from the later road racer 'Vette, but, they both seemed too small. I did end up cutting those exhaust ports from the '67's heads. There aren't a whole lot of 1/24th Big Blocks, to choose from, and most of them come from two "lines". I bought a 1/24 409 from Texas 3D, but, I thought it was too nicely detailed, for this old Monogram kit. Oh, well. I'm having fun with it!

I'd put it in at 170 degrees. I can't imagine that would be too hot. But the spoon may be worth a try, too!