Straightliner59

Starter's done, except for a couple of bolt heads and hooking up the battery cable to the lug on the solenoid, and the wire for the start button. I am happy with this thing! I think it might be about time for a little graphite on the edges, and some dusting. Thanks for looking!

I've been working on the starter. I've spent most of this time figuring out just how to go about building it. I think I finally figured out something that's passable. I ended up turning the solenoid from styrene rod, in order to create the terminal "block", at the front. I drilled the holes for the terminals. I also turned the front cover of the starter. The bolts on the mounting boss are just stuck on there with the adhesive from the tape I cut them from hex stock, on--mostly so they don't get lost. Two of those will actually be cemented to the bottom of the flange (which, I just realized, can be done, now). The others are backups!? Lately, I've been experimenting some, with a "stamping" technique. I used it, here, to make the copper power connection to the starter. Once I'd drilled the hole, in the main starter body, I found a piece of copper wire of the right diameter, and cut it about 3/8" long. I then sanded one end, so that it was smooth and round. Then, using my smallest pin punch (1/16"), and a 10 oz. ball peen hammer, I flattened it on an anvil, using a light, firm tap, if that makes any sense. I was then able to drill it to accept a plastic model railroad hex nut/bolt/washer (heretofore hex NBW) which as inserted into the solenoid's terminal block. Two more hex NBW will make the other connections. Lastly, I'll add hex NBW to make the thru-bolts. Once it's painted and the detailing is complete, it should be pretty cool, I think. Your questions, comments and critiques are always welcomed, of course. Thanks for looking!

Yup!

Beautiful work, Terry! This is looking awesome!

Thank you, my friend! It's sure to be better than the one I did 50 years ago!

Thanks, David! I am happy that I have figured out how to somewhat competently make decals. It's nice not to have to paint all my oil filters orange, and hope I have another Fram decal that's small enough!?

Thanks, guys! I still have to build the starter (and add those pesky plugs) before I can permanently install the engine. I printed some decals for the oil filter, and got it painted, and added to the engine. Here's the temporary, test-install. Happy with that! I removed the steering box, so I can push it out on the frame rail, a little more. It'll require building three more u-joints, but it will also make it possible to fit some headers, in there. The canted section of the steering column will make for more visual interest, anyhoo! All your comments are appreciated. Thanks for looking!

YEEEHAWWW! Much better! Thanks a ton!

Thanks, Bob! I gave that some thought, but, this still needs to be there, anyway, because it's cast to the block. I took care of it, though (see below). I'm pretty happy with it, too! I like the remote filter setup, too! Thank you, David! I got it a bit farther along... Sorry for the delay in responding! I finally got enough done to warrant an update! I got the filter mount added. I built it right on the block. I have a couple of bolt heads to add (threaded plugs, actually), but, it's done, otherwise. I need to find the artwork for the filter decals I made for the Supermod. I still need to add the drain plug to the pan, as well. The front and rear plates are mounted, along with the bellhousing, and it fits! Going to slip the trans in and make sure everything's still playing nicely, next. Thanks for looking, and for following along!

Thank you, Pierre. I enjoy your work--a lot! Your finishes are fantastic, and your presentations impeccable! I agree that some wash and some dust can really add some realism to the finish. Thanks for checking in, my friend!

Exactly. I try to make every assembly its own model. That's how I ended up with a mag transformer that consists of around 30 pieces! Sometimes, I might get a little lazy, though.?

I take 'em off. They're way easier to treat for mold lines, sink marks, etc., when they're loose.

The biggest problem with the kit tires, as I recall, is that they're wrinkled so that one is always wrinkled the wrong direction. Just double checked. Yep.

Finally got around to some photos. I added the pan bolts, made from .030" Plastruct hex stock. I added bolts to the timing cover. Those are model RR hex "NBW" (Nut/Bolt/Washer) castings. While I was at the front cover, I gave the ribs a nice polish. I discovered that I have gotten ahead of myself--when I was "stripping" the kit block assembly of its molded-on oil pan, starter and oil filter, I decided that the oil filter was too skinny-looking for a 1/24th scale engine, ultimately scrapping the mounting assembly, because it was too small for the filter I plan to use (R&D Unique). I don't expect it to be at all difficult, it'll just take a little time. Once that's fixed, I should be able to fit the rear motor plate and cement it into place, followed by the bellhousing and transmission, and install the block assembly into the chassis. I'm sure I'll discover other details I'll want to add, or stuff that needs to be done, first, but, them's my current plans. Thanks for looking!

I think Carl's on the right track. AMT made a pack of four sets of M&H Racemaster Dragster "Super Tall And Wide" slicks that should be pretty close--as close as I can think of. They compare favorably to the slicks in the Snake and Mongoose double kit, I have. However, they aren't going to be cheap! The AMT tire packs rarely show up on Ebay, unless they're brand new releases. When they do, they're running about $30 and up.

That 510 and its companion 240Z are beautiful kits. My 510 is an Advent kit. I recently realized that I had acquired three of the 240Zs!! One is in an original box, just like the first one I had, about 50 years ago.

Thank you, David. Appreciate that! I should have some more engine photos in a bit, if I can finish up what I'm working on, tonight.

I really like what you're doing, here! Nice work on the steering box. I would agree with Bill--that Revell early hemi is easily the best one. It's in the Hemi Hydro, as well. This is one that's been hanging around my shop for a couple of decades, now.

Here's the basic block assembly, with the aforementioned exhaust ports from the Revell '67 Corvette mounted to the milled-off heads from the old Monogram '66 Malibu. I think it worked out, pretty nicely. Got the Lakewood bellhousing painted red (of course!). I've since added the bolts to the pan rails. I have the bolts prepped and painted, for the timing cover. I punched some tooling aluminum discs, for the freeze plugs. They'll look good, once the wash is applied to the engine. Thanks for looking!

I truly appreciate that, Trevor. Thank you! I started work on the engine, today, by milling the exhaust ports off the heads and cementing the ports from the Revell '67 Corvette, in their place. The ports from the Monogram '70 Chevelle (where I got my BB) were wonky-looking. I shot some primer on the assembly, and will see if I can get it cleaned up and drilled for headers and plugs, before bed. I think it's best to get the long-block assembled, finished and installed, before the interior panels and firewall.

Nice job on the wheels! It looks so right for the time period!

Your detailing looks great! This is really gonna be cool!

I'll be adding switches, either next, or soon, dependent on what I feel like doing, next!? I've just been working on little stuff, while I decide if I am done with the underside enough, to start installing interior panels.

I wish you all the best, in that regard!? That was exactly what I said about my Badman, going in! I do love '80s S/G cars, though! That engine looks beauty!

I use a tall plastic container I got from a dispensary. I cut a slot in the lid, and, presto!