Straightliner59

You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar! Thanks for those, Greg.

I found something I think will work, nicely for the rod. I think mine's a little too far back to mount it to the firewall. My test pilot's foot wouldn't reach it, there.? I built a very similar one, to that for my Model A coupe project.

These make for cool-looking drag cars. I think they just re-released the MPC one.

Thanks, David! I've spent a few days working out the throttle pedal. NHRA's rules require a positive return device, so that the throttle can be "lifted", in the event of a return spring break, etc. After several false starts using other materials, I came back around to brass. It's since been dipped in Hobby Black. I have a couple of little things to add, yet. Anyhoo...this thing has taken way longer than it should have! As you can see, the return loop fits my test driver's foot. By using a figure, I can align him with given objects, to be sure that my model could actually be sat in, and driven, if it was 1:1. Due to his inflexibility, he can't always be positioned where he would actually be, and I have to rely on sight-lines. A couple of days ago, I was digging through some parts boxes, and found more pieces for another Monogram Sprint Car driver. I think that, at some point I will see if I can articulate one, to make it a bit more able to nestle into place. It's important to me that the things I build be at least practicable, if not entirely practical, or common. Part of that is making sure that everything the driver needs is actually within reach. Thanks for looking!

That's way cool! All I got done was buying a few things--building kits, landscaping stuff, a few of Kalmbach's old books. I never got past the planning stage. It is always neat, to find old photos of stuff like that!

I would agree, regarding the Fireball Modelworks parts. All Joseph's stuff is top-notch! If I was going to repair yours, I would use a liquid cement. It will create a joint as strong as the plastic, and, when you press the ends together, you should get a little "ooze", which will become its own filler.

I always wanted to build an N-scale railroad. So glad I never started! This hobby costs me enough. Plus, I would probably end up detailing the insides of buildings--you know, dishes in an open cabinet, a dresser with an open drawer with folded clothes. It would just be stupid! ? I have a few aircraft kits, now. Monogram's 1/48 Warthog, because I love A-10s, Revell's 1/32 Hawker Typhoon, and about 10, or so 1/144 scale kits. That's my favorite scale, for planes. There's been more than one occasion in which something I learned building other genres of models has come in handy, when building my cars! The more you know...

Very cool, David! I have built few planes, over the years, along with a couple of pieces of armor, a few small figures, and weathering and detail painting on a couple of N-scale rail cars. I think that variety helps us become better modelers. Great job solving a problem, my friend!

Exactly! If it works in 1:1, it'll work, in scale, so long as you're patient enough to get there. I build my chassis (mostly dragsters) on a 1/2"X4"x12" piece of balsa. I mark the longitudinal center line, wheelbase and overall length, front and rear track widths and motor plate. That usually will gets me started. Once the brass is cut and shaped, it's pinned into place and soldered. That's how I built the chassis for this car.

This will be a good "follow"! Looking good, so far, Pierre!

I'm an idiot! I just realized those are the tops of the boxes, not the ends. DUH!

I finished up the dash panel (I think!). I made the toggle switches from the pointed ends of straight pins. The rings are discs punched from aluminum duct tape. i also slipped a tiny length of black wire insulation over the base end. The plastic covers were made with drops of UV activated clear resin, then painted with Pactra acrylic red. I turned down a length (?) of 1/16" aluminum tubing, and some plastic rod, to make the starter button. Thanks for looking!

This looks so cool! I can never decide whether I like '70s Modified Production, or '80s Super Gas, better. It looks exactly like it should--not that I'd expect anything less from your bench, my friend!

That's interesting. I've never seen the Fujimi EM Series models in those boxes.

Thank you, very kindly, my friend! I consider that high praise. Here's what those pedal parts look like, installed. I slipped the interior door panels into place, so I could fit and install the panel gussets, and set the wheel into place. I got the dash drilled, so I guess the switches and starter button will be next. Thanks for looking!

The chassis is a work of art! If I wasn't sure the body will be just as gorgeous, I'd say it would be a shame to cover it up! Excellent work, my friend!

I've been picking away at interior stuff...When I filed the relief in the dash panel, for the steering column, it vibrated a couple of the gauges off, so, I replaced those. I still need to drill the panel for the kill switch, main power/battery (for the starter), and the starter button. Then, I'll need to fabricate those. Because I didn't open slots in the floor for the brake and clutch pedals, they'll get mounted, as shown, in channel that I milled. I'll mount the brackets to a piece of strip stock (for a larger surface for glue), and cement that to the floor. I still need to work out the throttle pedal, and cut my gussets for the firewall/floor conjunction to length and install them. The pedals and arms are brass. The pedals will be soldered to the arms. I'll probably just soak them a bit, in Hobby Black to color them. I also cut the steering column and installed a collar on the end that passes through the firewall to the steering box. The collar will accept the end of the column with the wheel. The collar won't be visible, beneath/behind the dash, and will make installation of the wheel much simpler. I applied a wash of India ink to the wheel, then found a domed aluminum disk, to fit the center, for contrast. I'm on my first of four night off (WOOHOO!), so maybe I can get a dent made in this interior work! As always, your comments, critiques and questions are welcomed. Thanks for looking!

Thank you, sir! My projects have a strange way of doing this.? I'm happy with what I have done with it, so far. And, I hope, (and think) I have kept it recognizable as to its roots. It's a fun journey! I do recall saying something to that effect!? I think we have all experienced the underthinking of our aspirations! Minimalist dreams turn into...well...this! Thank you for your kind words, Pierre! They are always appreciated.

I sure am glad my brain never farts!? Been there, many's the time!

I agree with Trevor, above. Parts that are assemblies that will be painted the same color, should be glued together first, and any mold marks removed. Typically, parts that attach to the aforementioned assemblies can be painted individually. As you become more experienced, it'll become more "automatic", as to how you handle different situations. I have never built a Pocher kit, so, I can't really advise, about that.?

Added some details to the door panels. The indents on the door releases were custom-made to fit my "stunt driver's" hand!? I have to move the pivot up one hole on the window cranks, and get rid of the one it's currently in, because it would hit the cage. Should be a relatively easy fix. Thanks for looking!

Okay! I got the hump and the shifter installed. Not sure I'll bother with a boot, as it looks like it would, in real life, anyway. I started messing with the dash panel, and steering column support. It'll only take a small notch in the dash, to clear the column. Yay!? I also cut a couple of "rubber" mats from a piece of sign-lettering vinyl. It's coming along! I still need to add a couple of switches, and a starter button to the dash, as well. Floor is drilled for the belts, but still needs to have pedals added. I need to drill the door panels for the window cranks and door handles. Your comments, questions and/or critiques are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!

That's some kinda cool, right there!

I appreciate that, David! Thank you! Thank you, Kevin! I just wanted to be able to make as much as possible, in-house. I am always looking for materials that will allow me to make different stuff, more easily. That is really what is most fun, for me!

Those wire dragster fronts are gorgeous. I bought a pair for my Junior Fuel dragster, to replace the scratchbuilt ones I had made.