Straightliner59

Thanks, Roger! I liked it, before, but being able to fine tune it with the shackles really got it just right! I was playing around on my machines, and made this spindle. It really operates smoothly with no slop. Now, I just have to remember the exact steps I used, to make another! Sorry the photos are fuzzy. Here are a couple of the interior, coming together--door bars installed! Thanks for looking!

I am all-too-familiar with doing things multiple times! One of the things I have always liked about building with brass, is the speed at which stuff can be assembled, and its immediate durability. Even though I have a resistance soldering unit that I am extremely happy to have, there are still times that the old Weller 40 watt iron is the better tool. I'm happy you've been able to gather some useful stuff from my posts! I am always glad to share!

That's one thing I like about my gravity-feed brush. It is way easier to clean, no matter the paint! I just got a really great deal on a Badger 150-4, that should be here, Saturday. I bought it for the extra capacity of the bottles, for doing larger projects, like the paint coming up on my Badman.

I've had good results with Gofer's decals, but I think their contingency "stickers" are a bit too large. Although I have heard some say they've had problems with some of Slixx's sheets, I've always had good luck, with them. I like that they have things like chassis certs, blower belt markings, etc. I am going to look at some of the other suggestions, here, though! Thanks, all, for sharing them!

Thank you, David! Hey, why not, right?? It's actually pretty easy. I did my first set in about 1975 with an MPC '68 'Cuda. When I do the assembly, I'll super glue them, but, it's nice to have the option while determining final ride height.

If Andy does these, for your model, you know you've done good!?

Do you, by any chance mean silvering? That occurs with decals over flat paint. Armor and Aircraft modelers will usually shoot a coat of gloss, before applying decals, then flat coat, afterwards, to eliminate silvering, which occurs because of air trapped between the decal film, and the rough, uneven surface of matte paint. I don't know if that's what you're experiencing, but it sounds like it might be?

In order to help me feel like I'm getting somewhere, with this (although, looking around the bench shows I've done quite a bit of work), I painted and assembled the rear suspension--mostly. I dropped the rear a hole on the shackles. I like this better! I just installed the door bars, but don't have photos, yet. The front axle is too long. I made a new one, from brass. I'm going to attempt to mill a set of spindles, inspired by Francis' beautiful work, and a desire, just to see if I can do it! I laid the trac bars in place, too. Questions, critiques and comments are always welcome. Thanks for looking!

Thank you, Francis. I have gotten better about not breaking them, using them, manually, but, the lathe and mill are where they really shine! I have been amazed at the small size of stock I've been able to bore, with the lathe. I have ended up with a couple in those lots that are finer than a hair! I don't think a standard Sherline (without the high-RPM package) will turn fast enough to use them. I really am happy to have found them, to be sure!

You know what? You are absolutely right. I had forgotten that.

Excellent fabrication, Francis! That's a real gem, my friend! Will be looking forward to updates, as your time allows.

Thank you, Alex! Glad you love it!?

Thank you, Bob! I'm really happy with it!

I like it, Ken! I could see a case for either set of wheels/tires. The '32s look good!

I appreciate it, my friend! I really enjoy doing tinwork!

Glad to help! It might be my favorite hobby shop, ever.

It's been a while, since I was there, but there were quite a few vendors, as I recall. Also--you have to go to Scale Model Supplies, in St. Paul, while you're in the area. You can thank me, later!?

Thanks, Dan! If it ends up like I imagine, it should be pretty cool!

I have been using the carbide printed circuit board bits. Harbor Freight carries an inexpensive set, but I have been buying re-sharpened ones on eBay, in lots. Often, I've found a box of fifty for under $20, shipped. I just pay attention to the size(s). If it looks like something I'll use, I buy it. I started buying them, like this, because it's easy to go through them, using them on the lathe and mill. It's kind of nice only having to keep one pin vise handy, with a 1/8" collet, too! I also have a small drawer full of HSS bits.

Thank you, kindly, David! I got a bit more done... I pinned the axles in place, again. I like the "sit". I may go a tad lower in the rear, since the shackles allow me three choices, and this is the highest. In the shot with the differential, you can see the subtle coloration provided by the pencil. It's also good along edges that may get paint rubbed off, for any number of reasons. Also shown are the beginning stages of the driveshaft tunnel. Thanks for looking!

Time for an update! I got the tank and spare tire well cut out. I used an old prepaid phone card to cover up the hole. They're nice and flexible, but slightly thicker than .005" Evergreen. I've been using them since the late '90s, when I was using them to make long distance calls. Very handy! I made the supports for the seat (which may be from one of the Monogram Pro Stock kits). It's a very similar seat to the Solar racing seat from the Johan Sox and Martin 'Cuda. I've begun work on the driveshaft tunnel. That's made from tooling aluminum, rather than flashing. I shot some paint on the third-member, as well as the springs, just because I wanted to feel like I was making progress. I made new shackles from brass strip, because the plastic ones kept breaking, due, largely to my carelessness. Here's a little tip I've just been doing over the last few years: on the differential, rather than painting the bolt heads, I just rubbed the point of a soft drawing pencil over them. It's a much more subtle effect, but it still gently highlights them. I likely wont bother doing anything more with the trunk floor area, other than the paint that goes on the chassis. The goal there, was to get rid of their appearance below the chassis. As always, questions, critiques and comments are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!

Thanks, David. I'm pretty excited, about the decals. Now, I need to find, or mix the purple, for the body. There's still plenty of work, to be done on it, first, anyway. Thanks for looking in and commenting!

Thank you, Roger! Glad to have you along! Glad you're finding inspiration, in it. Sorry you're having a rough time with the front end of the Stepp car. I'm sure you'll get it figured out!

It really is! It's better designed than the AMT kits of the day. I was working on one in 1975. I lengthened the frame, for some reason. It was painted two-toned, Pactra Blazing Red and Lightning Purple. I never did finish it.

By rule, it has to be 3" minimum, to 40" (I think) from the front of the car (bumper).