Jon Haigwood

I did discover that I wasn't getting enough on the edges and corners so now I make sure I give them equal amounts of coverage. I don't like using rattle cans because they waste so much paint and apply the paint to heavy. Normally I decant them and apply them with an airbrush

I find when doing the googly search method mentioned above I do the search on the "image" setting. I find a image that applies to my search query then check out the page that is attached to it. Your results may vary.

Painting is not my forte, and the thing I struggle with the most. I have been using Candy2o over a metallic base. The UVLS clear that I reduce it with doesn't get the results I want so I have been using Alclad Lacquer Gloss Klear coat and spraying several coats, wet sanding and applying additional coats and re-sand and polish. One of my problems is when I lightly wet sand I inadvertently sand thru to the base coat. I use a lot Createx products and watch their videos on how to use them so I contacted the person that did most of the videos on Candy2o paint. I told him what I was trying to do and what airbrush I was using. In his response he told me that airbrush with a .35 tip was to small for clears and I should use at least a .5 tip. I also stated that a 2k clear would probably work better for my application. He recommended I use SprayMax in aerosol cans. Any thoughts on this and any experience with SprayMax ? thanks

Norm only has Strombergs. I may have to use them. Norm told me he probably won't be back to making parts until January

One of your club members found this picture and was wondering what it's origin was. I'm thinking home made,

Only seeing two barrels , need one barrels Love their stuff wish they had them

Looking for some Holley carbs similar to the ones in the pic. Thanks

Haven't done that but I have been thinking about it. I seem to have a lot of issues with paint. Maybe because I try and get flashy and it mostly comes back to bite me maybe something simple might just be in order. I have a Foose panel that I used a metal flake silver base with a Blood Red Candy over it and it has been restarted about three times so far for runs or blemish's. Planning on a couple T.R.O.G. builds with just primer colors.

UPDATE: Just talked to Norm, he is on the mend and feeling better , He will still not be casting any parts for 3 or 4 months. I passed along all your good wish's.

I use Formula 560 Canopy glue. I also use it to mockup parts before final assembly because it can be removed without harming finish It is similar to Elmer's and School glue

Reposting this from my FB Model Page " Norman Veber, sole proprietor of Replicas & Miniatures Co. of Maryland, will undergo multiple bypass surgery on Friday or Saturday, as soon as a bed is available at Un. of Maryland. Speaking with Norm, he anticipates it will be several months before he can resume production. He is, and always was, a one man operation. He casts, packages, prints kit instructions, boxes products for shipping and makes post office runs 2 or 3 times a week. His large operation is in his basement. He will be unable to use steps for quite some time, in addition to all the other aspects of self employment. Please keep Norm in your thoughts and prayers and be patient. This is NOT !!! the end of Reps & Mins. It is just a medium-sized gap in the timeline of this iconic aftermarket company."

I think I solved my problem for this build anyway. On another build a 40 Ford Convert I used the chassis and running gear from the 39 Wagon Rod and still have the frame and floor pan from the convert. Looks like with a few mods I can make it work on my current 40 Ford Ute build. Not sure what I will do on my other 8 AMT 40 Ford kits. Thanks for all the advice , greatly appreciated.

Sounds like a good plan. Maybe you can have better luck than me in finding a 40 Ford in something other than AMT with a better chassis.

Working on a 40 Sedan Delivery and it has the exhaust molded in the chassis plate. How do you folks deal with this ?

I put mine in the purple pond to clean them. If they are glued in they would just fall out and the if they were made from cork they would be destroyed. In my case I won't glue them in . Make sure it is thin cork or you can tighten down the lid much I also buy a 10 pack of plastic paint bottles and caps from the local art store for mixing paint up to airbrush. They were about 10 for a dollar

Get creative, buy some gasket material available in cork, rubber and fiber possibly may be carried at your local auto parts store and ebay.

I normally put pellets that I also use in my pellet rifle in all my paint bottles glass and plastic, never been a problem. Same effect as the above mentioned BB,

oh ,never mind

oopsie

Mocking up my Foose panel conversion , I am not a fan of the rubber band tires and think I will switch these out for something less modern also, just not sure of with what yet,

Happy building

"never mind

never mind