Jon Haigwood

I have it set to record but have not watched it yet, Reserving opinions until then edit: just watched the first show Not super impressed. I don't think I would have used a lighter to heat up the rear springs to bend them ,In my experiences it would get overheated and turn into a plastic twizzle Only take away for me was the 4 muffler setup

"Time to set the Wayback Machine Mr Peabody"

Currently doing a resto mod 40 Convert, turning it into a roadster with a standard grill

Thanks that is what I was looking for

I am kind into doing some 39/40 Fords and I am interested in the different 1:1 body and trim styles. Tring to find a page online that will give me a lineup of cars and trucks. My first question is was there a 4o Ford Truck in the Deluxe trim or was it only in Standard trim ? Thanks

Can it be used in an air brush and can it be cleared without it looking dull ?

On my last couple of builds I have been masking off the areas that I don't want embossed and then applying a coat what ever color I want the carpet to be and applying the embossing powder from a mini salt shaker while the paint is still wet. After that dries I put on another coat of the same color to the powder and anything else I want that color. I find white glue a bit blotchy and sometimes it tends to lift off and has a longer drying time.

Actually it is Liquid Silver Pearl put out by tru-color paint. I have never used it , got as a door prize at a model meet. Looks kind of candy in the bottle. I will be doing a spoon test soon

My current project is a resto-mod 40 Ford Convertible l have some custom work done and be painted with two tone paint, top will be a Candy blue over a silver metal flake base and the bottom will be Candy silver over the same silver metal flake base. I was thinking about putting blue/violet color shift paint over that but I am wandering if color shift paint would be out of place on older body styles. So should I save the color shift paint for new body styles or will it look OK on older body styles ?

I normally use the back side of an exacto knife blade for cutting. And when assembling I use .02" sheet plastic as a backing.

One of my club members has a Wagon Rod for me, Still debating on a Duvall windshield, Also considering doing some hood modifications so the side edges are flat and it will hinge from the side. Going with a 39 Standard grill

That might also have an interior I could modify for it

I have been inspired by this car to build a 40 Ford Convertible Resto=Mod. I would like to put a modern chassis, running gear and motor in it. I was thinking about a Coyote motor but ran across a Shelby Series 1 kit in my stash. any thoughts or suggestions about maybe doing some frame modification and drop the 40 body on it ?

Just finished my first chop. This is a 3 window but I made a cut across the center of the roof and added some styrene to lengthen the roof so the front pillars would line up. It did start out as a 3" chop and ended up being a 4 1/2" chop. I know some people like to slant the front back but I prefer this look.

For me personally I don't enter contests, not that they are not good they challenge builders to do better. I have entered them in the past but after doing my best effort (at that point with my current amount of skill) I never seemed to win and it was very frustrating. On some occasions the judging was a bit politically motivated and hard to come out ahead when competing with one of the favorites. Contests still help push me to improve my skills even though I don't enter them. I came to the conclusion that I build for myself and not to beat out other builders.

I have been using Alclad II Gloss Klear Coat ALC 310 as a clear top coat. I just opened another bottle and it has a stronger odor and the bottle cap is slightly different. Was there a change in the formula or is that the new bottle is fresher and so have a stronger odor ?

I just checked my fendered 32 and it has the gap but without the frame horn covers. It looks like it the body is setting on the gas tank

I did one on a A roadster , wasn't to difficult. Hardest part was getting the wire bent right so it would close all the way and be fully open in the right position. (excuse the dust)

Thanks Gerry, I looked here , on Google and on our FB page and never thought to look on his page LOL

For me it is the Ala Kart built by a friend and fellow builder Harold Perry AKA 38 Crush , here in Oregon, Unfortunately I can't any pictures of it.

Still doing mock up on the Junk Yard Dog

The front axle I had a bending issue with would have been OK if I never used it. The problem was when it was on the model with a bit of stress put on it from the model resting on the springs and the ends on the wheels giving it some upward pressure. I probably could have left it in a jar for years and never had a problem. One of the fellows in my Model Club has started doing some 3D printing and I will ask him about this and see what information I can get on types of plastics to get better results. It may be a matter of cost in material.

IF you need something let me know I might be able to return the favor

Made a visit to Hobby Lobby and pickup some Vallejo Color Shift Paint , Space Dust. I didn't find much about it in the search. It look like they recommend using it over gloss black. I did see on an old post that it was used over white and had a different color to it. Anyone with any tips or info on painting with it ? I have been using Alclad Klear Kote Glossfor my top coats with Createx and Tru-Color with good results. I use a Createx inter-coat clear between the color and the top coat. Should I expect to get the same results from the Vallejo Acrylic ? I can see I will be doing a lot of spoon tests.

Thanks for the info and Big thanks to Muncie for the needed parts