Jon Haigwood

Haven't done that but I have been thinking about it. I seem to have a lot of issues with paint. Maybe because I try and get flashy and it mostly comes back to bite me maybe something simple might just be in order. I have a Foose panel that I used a metal flake silver base with a Blood Red Candy over it and it has been restarted about three times so far for runs or blemish's. Planning on a couple T.R.O.G. builds with just primer colors.

UPDATE: Just talked to Norm, he is on the mend and feeling better , He will still not be casting any parts for 3 or 4 months. I passed along all your good wish's.

I use Formula 560 Canopy glue. I also use it to mockup parts before final assembly because it can be removed without harming finish It is similar to Elmer's and School glue

Reposting this from my FB Model Page " Norman Veber, sole proprietor of Replicas & Miniatures Co. of Maryland, will undergo multiple bypass surgery on Friday or Saturday, as soon as a bed is available at Un. of Maryland. Speaking with Norm, he anticipates it will be several months before he can resume production. He is, and always was, a one man operation. He casts, packages, prints kit instructions, boxes products for shipping and makes post office runs 2 or 3 times a week. His large operation is in his basement. He will be unable to use steps for quite some time, in addition to all the other aspects of self employment. Please keep Norm in your thoughts and prayers and be patient. This is NOT !!! the end of Reps & Mins. It is just a medium-sized gap in the timeline of this iconic aftermarket company."

I think I solved my problem for this build anyway. On another build a 40 Ford Convert I used the chassis and running gear from the 39 Wagon Rod and still have the frame and floor pan from the convert. Looks like with a few mods I can make it work on my current 40 Ford Ute build. Not sure what I will do on my other 8 AMT 40 Ford kits. Thanks for all the advice , greatly appreciated.

Sounds like a good plan. Maybe you can have better luck than me in finding a 40 Ford in something other than AMT with a better chassis.

Working on a 40 Sedan Delivery and it has the exhaust molded in the chassis plate. How do you folks deal with this ?

I put mine in the purple pond to clean them. If they are glued in they would just fall out and the if they were made from cork they would be destroyed. In my case I won't glue them in . Make sure it is thin cork or you can tighten down the lid much I also buy a 10 pack of plastic paint bottles and caps from the local art store for mixing paint up to airbrush. They were about 10 for a dollar

Get creative, buy some gasket material available in cork, rubber and fiber possibly may be carried at your local auto parts store and ebay.

I normally put pellets that I also use in my pellet rifle in all my paint bottles glass and plastic, never been a problem. Same effect as the above mentioned BB,

oh ,never mind

oopsie

Mocking up my Foose panel conversion , I am not a fan of the rubber band tires and think I will switch these out for something less modern also, just not sure of with what yet,

Happy building

"never mind

never mind

never mind

I have been air brushing with Alclad 2 Gloss Klear Kote and I know they have it in several stages of clear, from gloss to matte. I have only used the gloss but I also have been using Aqua Gloss Clear, it seems to leave a bit of a satin finish that I use for the interior, For Rattle cans I use Rustoleam satin clear and matte clear

Thanks for the responses . I have went the Shapways route before but my pockets are not quite that deep at the moment but appreciate the reply with links

Ford FE FE/FT engine displacements Displacement Type Bore+0.0036/-0.0000 Stroke+/-0.004 330 cu in (5.4 L) FT 3.875 in (98.4 mm) 3.5 in (88.9 mm) 332 cu in (5.4 L) FE 4 in (101.6 mm) 3.3 in (83.8 mm) 352 cu in (5.8 L) 3.5 in (88.9 mm) 359 cu in (5.9 L) FT 4.05 in (102.9 mm) 360 cu in (5.9 L) FE 361 cu in (5.9 L) FT 389 cu in (6.4 L) 3.784 in (96.1 mm) 390 cu in (6.4 L) FE 391 cu in (6.4 L) FT 3.786 in (96.2 mm) 396 cu in (6.5 L) FE 4.2328 in (107.5 mm) 3.514 in (89.3 mm) 406 cu in (6.7 L) 4.13 in (104.9 mm) 3.784 in (96.1 mm) 410 cu in (6.7 L) 4.05 in (102.9 mm) 3.984 in (101.2 mm) 427 cu in (7.0 L) 4.2328 in (107.5 mm) 3.784 in (96.1 mm) 428 cu in (7.0 L) 4.13 in (104.9 mm) 3.984 in (101.2 mm) FE oil flow paths

Working on a couple Foose FD100 engines and was looking for more intake options in the aftermarket. Could be multiple carbs or injection.

Doing a Foose FD100 Panel conversion. As we know the Foose is 1/25th and the Revell Panel is 1/24th. I have narrowed the panel roof a smidge , chopped and shortened the panel roof. Reduced the height of the lower half to match the cab height. And removed some from the bottom of the rear fenders. I just need to finish where the back of the doors meet the back. As I look at it now in my eye it looks a bit on the long side. I am considering shortening the back about 3.5 scale inches at the rear fenders. It looks like the fender openings are to big and taking plastic out at this location would be fairly straight forward, I have already lengthened the Foose frame and connected the Foose Cab to the panel floor. Is there a site where I can get the factory dimensions for the 54/56 Ford Panel so I can have something for comparison ?

In the street rod version it is 98

If we are talking about the louvered hood it is 98 or 86 depending on how you look at it. But there is a line under 98