Jon Haigwood

never mind

I have been air brushing with Alclad 2 Gloss Klear Kote and I know they have it in several stages of clear, from gloss to matte. I have only used the gloss but I also have been using Aqua Gloss Clear, it seems to leave a bit of a satin finish that I use for the interior, For Rattle cans I use Rustoleam satin clear and matte clear

Thanks for the responses . I have went the Shapways route before but my pockets are not quite that deep at the moment but appreciate the reply with links

Ford FE FE/FT engine displacements Displacement Type Bore+0.0036/-0.0000 Stroke+/-0.004 330 cu in (5.4 L) FT 3.875 in (98.4 mm) 3.5 in (88.9 mm) 332 cu in (5.4 L) FE 4 in (101.6 mm) 3.3 in (83.8 mm) 352 cu in (5.8 L) 3.5 in (88.9 mm) 359 cu in (5.9 L) FT 4.05 in (102.9 mm) 360 cu in (5.9 L) FE 361 cu in (5.9 L) FT 389 cu in (6.4 L) 3.784 in (96.1 mm) 390 cu in (6.4 L) FE 391 cu in (6.4 L) FT 3.786 in (96.2 mm) 396 cu in (6.5 L) FE 4.2328 in (107.5 mm) 3.514 in (89.3 mm) 406 cu in (6.7 L) 4.13 in (104.9 mm) 3.784 in (96.1 mm) 410 cu in (6.7 L) 4.05 in (102.9 mm) 3.984 in (101.2 mm) 427 cu in (7.0 L) 4.2328 in (107.5 mm) 3.784 in (96.1 mm) 428 cu in (7.0 L) 4.13 in (104.9 mm) 3.984 in (101.2 mm) FE oil flow paths

Working on a couple Foose FD100 engines and was looking for more intake options in the aftermarket. Could be multiple carbs or injection.

Doing a Foose FD100 Panel conversion. As we know the Foose is 1/25th and the Revell Panel is 1/24th. I have narrowed the panel roof a smidge , chopped and shortened the panel roof. Reduced the height of the lower half to match the cab height. And removed some from the bottom of the rear fenders. I just need to finish where the back of the doors meet the back. As I look at it now in my eye it looks a bit on the long side. I am considering shortening the back about 3.5 scale inches at the rear fenders. It looks like the fender openings are to big and taking plastic out at this location would be fairly straight forward, I have already lengthened the Foose frame and connected the Foose Cab to the panel floor. Is there a site where I can get the factory dimensions for the 54/56 Ford Panel so I can have something for comparison ?

In the street rod version it is 98

If we are talking about the louvered hood it is 98 or 86 depending on how you look at it. But there is a line under 98

Nice to see that he spent a little more effort on the Charger, He has a lot of info on the accuracy of the builds. Definitely a MOPAR guy

I love the story behind the 350 in GT350. They called it 350 because that was how long the building was. They picked 500 for the GT500 because it was a bigger number than 350.

Well that makes sense, It is helpful when grafting it to a Panel body. Thanks

Not sure if I am missing something but why is the Cab Roof on the Foose FD100 a separate piece ? (other than to make it a bit easier for me to chop the back of it off for a panel conversion)

Not sure what year this was released but I do remember having this kit

I have some (unclear) memories of my first model in 1959. I am kinda thinking it was in the Mopar family. Is there any database with the release dates of the early kits ? Thanks

Great video ,thanks

lets not forget the AC Aceca also produce in the 54 63 year range

He seems to build models in the same fashion as they build 1:1 cars on RoadKill .Throw them together.

That will work, just happen to have a couple in the stash . Thanks

Interested in performance parts for the Ford FE engine that is in the Foose FD100 kit. Looking for something more impressive than a single carb.

I just watched episode 2 "hack and glue" . Interesting and a bit (just a bit) informative. But it was ok for what it was supposed to be, "Folk Art". I did realize it maybe able to encourage young and new modelers to the hobby by showing that it is Ok to accomplish a build without being over ambitious. (kind of like most of us when we were 9. He did do a lot a kit bashing for parts , kind of made me cringe until I realized I had just been looking thru a Ala Kart kit for parts. I would like to know how the inward exhaust is going to work out with the engines side by side ?

Works great for me. I buy the refills and either use the airbrush for larger parts or dab a glob on with a tiny brush, Then I let it sit for a few months and never touch it again.

Thanks All for the suggestions, Gives my some choices.

I use the 1/2 round plastic glued to thin sheet of plastic I sand down the top to make it look a little bit flatter. I have used Tamiya Extra thin to soften the 1/2 round for bending them around a corner

I an currently working on a 40 Ford Convert that I usede the frame suspension and running gear from the 39 Wagon Rod. With modifications it is working out great. I am thinking about doing another Resto Mod build on a 40 Forde pickup. Is there any other kits that would have a suitable frame, suspension and running gear for these conversions ? Would love to use a Coyote motor but I don't think there is anything available. Thanks Jon