Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

StevenGuthmiller

Members
  • Posts

    15,071
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller

  1. More pictures, or more models? I have plenty of photos and can always take more, but this is the only early 60s Ford truck that I have outside of a 1960. Steve
  2. On this Ford, I painted the body first, masked around the letters using BMF and then shot a light coat of color, followed by clear coats. Not the easiest solution, but it worked well for me. Steve
  3. Testors clear enamel isn’t much good for anything else, but it works great for this purpose. ? Steve
  4. Absolutely! But that's another issue that the "collector" wouldn't care about. Steve
  5. if I can make a suggestion, a shot of Testors clear enamel gives you the perfect yellowing affect on the transparent steering wheel. Steve
  6. That's fabulous Bob!! I found myself doing something similar for the gear indicator on the column of my '68 Coronet. A little smaller, and I don't think a decal would be feasible, but I did it pretty much in the same fashion. I don't know about you Bob, but working out these sorts of issues are what really makes the hobby a lot of fun for me! The danger of destroying a rare part in the process makes it even more exciting! Steve
  7. That may be the case, but Trumpeter themselves carry the brunt of the responsibility for the sales issues. If the models are goofed up and inaccurate, that’s on them, not the buyer. Who among us wouldn’t return a defective product. And furthermore, who among us wouldn’t warn his friends if they happened upon a product that was consistently defective, and tell them to steer clear. Steve
  8. As they say, "all good things must come to an end" and while I was honored to have participated for the past couple of years, I really hope that the DSC will be able to continue their normal "in person" show next year. But it was great being able to participate in a show that I likely would never have been able to attend under normal circumstances, so thanks so much for the opportunity fellas!! Steve
  9. I agree. But then again, I plan on building them, so I wanna see what's in the box. I guess if you're a collector, you'll never be the wiser if there's an AMT '49 Mercury inside. Steve
  10. Just don’t use Testors clear enamel, unless you want your decals to be yellow. ? Steve
  11. You can spray a lacquer gloss coat like Testors over them while they’re still on the sheet. Steve
  12. Some of us are just amused by the whole thing. If it’s just a 1,000 kit collection that we want to see that nobody will have access to except for a few privileged individuals, there’s probably 50 guys that belong to this board that could make a video or two of themselves going through their own stashes. If it’s the history lesson we’re seeking, I’m all for it, but this was just looking a little too much like an exercise in “look what I have that none of you will ever get”. Steve
  13. I’ve not built any of the Trumpeter kits myself, but I do have a couple of them, and I’ve only built a couple Moebius kits, but here’s my opinion on what I do know of both manufacturers kits. I’ve seen multiple builds from both manufacturers over the years, and although some say that there are inaccuracies with some of Moebius’s kits, they usually look pretty nice built up. Someone said the Moebius Ford truck kits have many accuracy issues, but the always appear to finish pretty nicely in my view. On the other hand, the Trumpeter kits usually look “out of whack” when finished. The ‘60 Bonneville convertible is pretty nice, but there is no debating the fact that the hardtop roof is way wonky! The ‘63 Nova always looked fairly good to me, although it too appears a little “off” in areas. The worst always seems to be the Falcon kits. I don’t know what it is about them, but they just look way too boxy and weird to me. Steve
  14. I don’t know all of the scientific reasons why plastic becomes brittle, but my assumption with styrene model kits is that time itself is the biggest factor. Steve
  15. That sums up a lot of attitudes, doesn’t it. my attitude has mellowed over the years to much more of a, “I’m really glad they make this model” attitude. But that’s a minority attitude, no doubt! Steve
  16. I would have thought that the Falcons and ‘63 Nova kits would have been huge sellers judging by the apparent interest in the Round 2 Nova wagons and the Moebius ‘62 Novas. Steve
  17. A modified Johan 1962 Olds F-85 tranny. (like the red one above) I did some stuff with the bell housing area, and lengthened the tail shaft. Not perfect, but about as close as I was going to get for my ‘64 Pontiac Grand Prix. Steve
  18. And what he has to say isn’t all that interesting. ? Steve
  19. I kind of like the poverty caps. But I agree. On a convertible........probably not. A hardtop, on the other hand, would give you the “you don’t know it yet, but I’m about to kick your ass” impression with those wheels. ? Steve
  20. Again, the $500.00 is obviously collectors price for someone that wants an original to grace his shelf. That kit will never be built, guaranteed. There are better, or at least equal and much cheaper options for someone who actually builds models. ? Steve
  21. Sooo....he made a 12 and a half minute video bitching about how it doesn't bother him that people are dissing him? Watched part 3. Another snooze fest unless you're big into stock cars. Steve
  22. Thanks Steve. Yes, I use embossing powder all of the time. Personally, I have good luck using slightly thinned Elmer's glue for the adhesive. Roger, you're correct that the glue can pool when it's applied, but I've found that the glue will shrink up and look just fine after it has dried. That said, any thing that you care to use for an adhesive should work just fine as long as it stays wet long enough to get the powder applied completely before it begins to dry. My understanding is that you can paint over it with no problem, but I don't do that. I just use an embossing powder that is close to the color of the interior, and I usually have pretty good luck matching colors. On occasion, I have had to mix colors to get the hue that I want, but this only works for doing something like making turquoise from blue and green. I don't think you would have much luck making orange from red and yellow for example. The colors need to be close to each other for mixing to work. This '65 Plymouth interior was achieved by mixing blue and green. The other one came straight from the bottle. Steve
  23. I’ve got another idea for you to try Bob. If it doesn’t work, there’s no harm. Put a little mold putty over the speedo face and make a cast with some clear epoxy. If it works out, you could replace that as well. ? Steve
×
×
  • Create New...