StevenGuthmiller

Let's put this to rest. There is no Tamiya '57 Chevy, never has been, and very likely never will be. I always find it a little amusing that there are those who's first instinct when these "bad kit" discussions come up, is to prompt us to buy Tamiya kits. Well, that's just fine if you want to build foreign or exotic cars. Otherwise, it's just pointless logic. If you feel that you "have" to buy a particular brand of kit, regardless of whether or not they produce the subject matter that you're interested in, because the other guy's stuff is "too hard", you're probably not much of a builder in the first place. Steve

Don't worry Tom. I'll be certain to raise a big noise when they're available. Last time I checked, the molds were just about done. Steve

A few more shots that might help you along with your identification process. Steve

I pull the tape off immediately after applying the flocking, (embossing powder in my case) while the adhesive is still wet. The sooner, the better. Steve

Bingo! ? Steve

The airbrush itself won’t be that major of a purchase in comparison. You can get a pretty nice airbrush for the cost of about 36 oz. of paint! Steve

For that money you can get an airbrush set up and get any color you can think of from one of the after market paint providers for the cost of a few cans of paint! Steve

MCW has a number of different greens in rattle cans available. $19.00 a can. Steve

If Tamiya made a ‘57 Chevy it might be a valid argument to consider it as an alternative. But since they don’t, (or any other classic American car for that matter) it’s pretty much a moot point. Steve

Don't know anything about the fan except this is what came in the Revell '68 Charger to be used in conjunction with the Hemi engine provided in the kit. I understand that the Hemi in that kit is not a stock engine, so I suppose it's entirely possible that it could be incorrect. Not a major issue. I'm pretty sure that I have a spare Mopar clutch fan around somewhere. Steve

It's funny, but I've been airbrushing for probably 30 years and have never had to worry about anything like this. I've had a Creos PS-290 that I use for bodies for a few yeas now, (it also has the pistol grip) and an old Badger 200 NH that I've had for nearly that entire 30 year period and I shoot lacquer and lacquer thinner through them both all of the time. I guess this just amplifies the fact that not all equipment is created equal, even if it does have a fancy name. Steve

A few more shots after some light weathering. Steve

Still detailing engine parts. Today, I dusted a little aluminum on the carbs to tone down the gold a little and then painted any details that were required, dusted a little steel on the transmission to help achieve a bit more of a used appearance and added some bolt detail to the valve covers. I also added some detail paint to many of the other parts, including the starter and alternator. The engine is painted with one clear coat. I'll throw one more clear coat over almost everything to protect the paint and then it will be time for a wash for a slight weathered look. Steve

I agree with the others. I've tried it both ways and have had more satisfactory results by applying after the clear coats. Steve

Looking good so far Bob. I do have one question for you. Being as you're swapping out the interior, chassis, etc, any thought of whether or not to go ahead and open the hood? Seems a shame to go through the detail work that's going to be required for the interior, etc, without considering plopping an engine in it. One more thing, consider drilling out and replacing the headlights as well. I wish that I would have done this modification on a bunch of my vintage stuff. Steve

Use some of the wider stuff. I believe the stuff I use is 3mm. I only buy one size and cut it down to the size I need with a straight edge and X-acto blade. personally, I think the tack is perfect for masking for several colors. If you burnish it down well, it will give you perfect edges. As I said, the ‘61 Buick interior above was done with Tamiya tape and as you can see, no bleed under whatsoever. As with everything, if you take your time, you’ll get good results. Steve

Life is terminal. ? Steve

As a famous comedian once joked, “Scientists have recently discovered that saliva may cause stomach cancer. But only if swallowed in small amounts over a long period of time”. Everything will kill you these days. ? Steve

It took a while, but what's time when you're doing something you love! Steve

In my example above, the entire tub started in white primer. Then the parts to remain white were masked and the medium turquoise was air brushed on. After that it was just a matter of masking and brush painting the remainder of the striping. Once the painting was finished, I gave the entire tub a very light dusting of pearl acrylic to give it a metallic sheen. All of the masking was done with Tamiya masking tape. Steve

I use them whenever I can now. As Tom stated, they're really the best option for door locks. Steve

Sometimes, you just have to bite the bullet, take your time, and get out the masking tape. You can do some pretty neat stuff with nothing more than some good masking tape and paint. Steve

Started painting some of the engine parts. I sprayed black primer on the valve covers, followed by a little clear shot from a distance to add some texture. The carbs got Alclad "Pale Burnt Metal", the transmission "Dark Aluminum" and the tranny pan "White Aluminum". The fuel splitter was shot with "Pale Gold", and the exhaust manifolds with layers of "Dark Aluminum", "Exhaust Manifold" and a misting of red primer. The block and other parts are painted flat orange at the moment. I will do some detail painting before I shoot them with some clear to shine them up. Steve

If I’m not mistaken, the “over spray” thing was not a hallmark of Mopars from this time period. It’s been my understanding that the entire floor pan, as well as the engine bay would have been body color. I believe overspray would have been more of a GM/Ford thing. Please, someone correct me if I’m wrong. I will need to know as well for my ‘68 Coronet. Steve

The wheels were constructed using a set of Torque Thrusts from the AMT ‘62 Chevy for their basis. I ground off the outer rim down to the spokes and replaced the rim with a set of custom rims from an AMT ‘67 Ford Galaxie kit that I had leftover. Then I ground off the center caps and replaced them with a set from a Revell Mustang kit. If you want to view the build thread, the easiest way would be to go to my profile, click on the “activity” tab and then click on the “topics” tab under the “forums” heading on the left of the page. The build thread is at the very bottom of page 2 under the heading, “ ‘65 Fury. Back on the Bench”. get your reading glasses ready. The thread is 19 pages long! ? Steve