StevenGuthmiller

I wish it was real! I'd probably be out looking for trouble instead of sitting here talking to you! Steve

I know your pain Ken. I spend some time on the Facebook groups and I see those botched paint jobs all of the time, almost on a daily basis, and without even asking, it's become almost obligatory that Rustoleum paint was involved in some way, shape, or form. As you said, the most frustrating part are the number of people that will continue to encourage them to try again using the exact same materials and then watch them fail all over again, claiming all along the way that "paint is paint" and "there's nothing wrong with the paint, it's the painter". I suppose in the end, much of it is the painter's responsibility, but inferior materials sure as heck don't make anything easier on them. I've even seen on a number of occasions, people who will have a failure with Rustoleum paint, admit that they've had issues with it in the past, and yet will still continue to ask people what they can do differently to make it work, and at the same time will get angry with you when you suggest that they try different materials! I guess some people are just gluttons for punishment. Steve

The method that I've been using is probably a little unorthodox and requires some forethought, but it will give you a very clean finish on the inside instead of the obligatory globby glue mess that you generally see around the inside of the glass on a model. This technique involves adding plastic stock to the inside of the A-pillars and the windshield header, creating a slight channel, so that when you clear sheet plastic is ready to be installed, it can be cut slightly larger than the opening, and "friction fit" into the opening. With this method, you can run a small bead of clear epoxy along the windshield header, let it tack up slightly, slide the glass into the opening from the bottom, and then tape or clamp the lower cowl edge into place and glue. The glued cowl area will be covered by the dash board, the sides of the glass require no glue due to friction, and the only exposed glued area will be along the header, the least noticeable area. and even there, you'll notice a much cleaner look. Of course this technique is much more involved, but it will make installing the glass itself much easier, and if you want the interior windshield area to look as realistic as possible, this will do the job. The green painted A-pillar pieces and header were the plastic stock that I added to the kit frame. I think you'll agree that the interior windshield area looks much more realistic using this method than what you'll normally see. Steve

That's my thought. I will absolutely pull the trigger on Alsa Easy Chrome should the need arise, before I will ever rely on one of the other chrome paints available at the moment. I require something with some durability, plain and simple, and none of the chrome paints currently available provide that.

When it all comes down to brass tacks, the stuff is just way too touchy and unpredictable in my estimation. When I begin painting a model, which in most cases is a rarer vintage kit, I have no stomach for any surprises whatsoever. There are tried and true paints that have been around for ages that can be absolutely counted on to do the job correctly without any potential for drama. Why would I do anything else. It seems to me that whenever one of these "new" products surfaces, (kind of like Molotow) people seem to be willing to completely upend everything that they already know, and will jump through a thousand different hoops just to try to get it to work in some fashion, when there's always an old school way of doing it that's been around for nearly as long as we have, that produces equal, or even better, results that's always been right under our noses. The only thing that I can attribute this phenomenon to is expediency. People want fast, and will make whatever sacrifice necessary to get it done quickly. I will never understand it. Steve

I'm a bit surprised to see that there's no "Factory Stock" category. That's really weird. Most shows that I go to in my area have probably more factory stock entrants than any other category. I understand "Box Stock", but "Modified Box Stock"? Most of my models wouldn't fit into either category. They're stock, but not out of the box, and most contain at least a few aftermarket parts. I don't remember ever seeing a model car show that didn't have a "Factory Stock" category, without limitations. Very strange. Steve

Guess I missed it! Steve

Generally yes. The particular epoxy that I use can sit for at least 5 minutes before it begins to tack up. Depending on the particular assembly that needs to be performed, I’ll either apply the glue and then immediately mate the parts if it’s a pretty secure connection, followed by a check after about 10 minutes to be certain that the positioning is correct, or else I’ll mix the glue, apply it to one of the surfaces to be mated, and then let it sit for 5 minutes or so, after which I’ll check for tackiness. If the glue is sufficiently tacky to hold the part securely in position without sliding around, then I’ll assemble the parts, and again, return probably ten minutes later to verify that it’s still in position. I’ll usually continue to make periodic positioning checks until the remaining glue on the mixing card is completely hardened, which probably takes about 15 or 20 minutes. Steve

There is that. Most small exterior parts, (ie, door handles, mirrors, antennas, etc, and sometimes interior parts such as window cranks) get pinned.......although I don't deal much with metal for this, or any other purpose. I use primarily thin plastic rod, or stretched sprue for this purpose. But in any event, it not only helps in the strength department, but it makes the parts much easier to locate and glue into place, eliminating any problems with parts sliding around and smearing glue all over the place. Takes a little more time and forethought, but it makes for a cleaner model in the end. Steve

I agree. Since I’ve begun using the glues that I use, joint strength has never been a problem. As a matter of fact, my models generally get handled quite a bit initially, and often get dragged 300 miles or so, one way, multiple times during a season to a number of shows, and in all honesty, over the past ten years or so since I’ve begun going to shows, I’ve never once had a part fall off in transit. Apparently the paint and glue bond is pretty good to be able to withstand 600 miles of bouncing around on bad Minnesota roads, and that’s just one trip of several. Sometimes I think glue joint strength gets a little over emphasized. We build static models that aren’t supposed to get a lot of rough handling anyway, so how strong does it need to be? Steve

I don’t scrape anything. Haven’t for probably 40 years. I use MEK glue for bare plastic prior to paint, and 2-part epoxy for virtually all assembly processes, and have no issues. Steve

All that I can talk you is that I thinned a custom mix of MCW enamels to do the interior in my ‘64 Bonneville with plain old lacquer thinner, and it worked just fine. I had a little left over, but I haven’t checked to see what kind of shape it’s in now. Enamels can be really quirky once thinned, and will some times gel up depending on the thinning medium. Steve

Good grief! This is exactly what we need. More confusion on this subject! Everyone has their own definitions of what this is, and what that is, and then we get the official versions from the paint wonks and industry experts with all of the technical, chemical mumbo-jumbo. and our eyes begin to glaze over! For our purposes, at least for mine, it's pretty simple. If it says "Enamel" on the can or bottle, it's going to dry slow, go on thicker, dry harder, dry shinier, and can only be over coated with enamel or acrylic as a rule. If it says "Lacquer", it dries extremely fast, is able to be built up in multiple layers, in most cases will dry duller, but will be able to be sprayed over with virtually any other type of paint. Acrylic seems to be the sticking point because everyone in the business apparently likes that word, and uses it freely on pretty much everything. If you're using acrylic, you're just going to have to get down in the gutter with the paint wonks if you want to know exactly what properties each acrylic has, because it can be almost anything. Steve

That is absolutely an option. There are any number of "adhesives" that can be used for embossing powder. Anything that it will stick to with even coverage is fair game. Steve

If I could make one suggestion Anders? A wash of some sort on the wire wheels would add another level of realism. Steve

Absolutely gorgeous! Beautiful example of the “first” American muscle car! Steve

Pretty sure that you can find the Boetje's in most grocery stores. If I can find it in Fargo North Dakota, you can find it anywhere! I like it because it's a little "sweeter" than a lot of mustards. By that I mean the vinegar level seems to be lower so that the mustard flavor seems more pronounced. It's also got a lot of heat, so you have to go light.....unless you need to really clean out the sinuses! Steve

Yup. Not hard to make a windshield for a Mopar '68-'70 B-body. Back glass is a little tougher, but also possible if you're patient. Steve

Did you forget the Boetje's mustard? I love this stuff!!! Steve

One thing that I’ve always hated was the propensity for many people to replace original interiors with generic looking tan leather throughout. In my opinion, one of the most endearing and coolest aspects of most old cars is the character of the interior treatments. Replacing a vibrant ‘55 Chevy interior with it’s wide variety of colors, textures and materials with a drab, monochrome, tan leather interior is a sin as far as I’m concerned. For as much time as most guys spend in the driver’s seat of their classic car, it can’t possibly be that detrimental to their delicate behinds to have to sit on vinyl for a little while. As far as having to let my Grand Prix warm up for a little while, I’m fine with it. I’m in no hurry whatsoever when I’m taking it out for a drive. Steve

As long as you’re not concerned about detail hide, there’s no reason that you can’t spray over it, especially with enamel. But yes, I would re-prime just for the sake of even color coverage. Steve

Did you prime it before paint? And if so, what primer did you use? Steve

I agree. Let old cars be old cars, and new be new. I've said it before, but in my opinion, a large part of the charm and nostalgia of an old car is the way that they run, handle, and ride. Everybody today seems to want their classic car to react exactly like their 2024 Ford Explorer. I don't understand it myself. I love the sound and feel of my '69 GP! To start modernizing it is to completely obliterate it's allure. Steve

Not really my bag. ? Steve

Or, you could say that my model builders hades would be nothing but models of cars produced after about 1977, or all foreign cars! ? I’d rather build airplanes. ? Steve