StevenGuthmiller

They are surely expensive aren't they Gary. I try not too think too much about the amount that can be spent on one of these old kits, but by the time you add up the cost of the kit itself, primer, paint, masking tape, foil, parts, chroming, etc, etc, etc, OUCH!! it can really add up in a hurry! of course when you figure in a lot of that same stuff for a new kit......well, let's just say the hobby is getting a little spendy! Steve

Who needs reindeer? they eat too much & poop all over the place! Steve

What happens when we have a real problem in our lives? Steve

Castrol Super Clean is perfect for resin. Won't damage it at all. Steve

It's all about subject matter. If you're like me & you love the cars from the 50s & early 60s, your choices are pretty limited. As an example, think for a moment about how many kits are available for cars from 1961. You can count them on about 3 fingers. The Lindberg '61 Impala, the AMT '61 Galaxie & the AMT Ranchero. That's it!! I now have in my collection, some built & some yet to build, at least 10 with several more I could still acquire. This same equation works for virtually every year from 1958-1967 or so. There are a lot of great old annuals out there, so unless you're content with building 15 different versions of a '57 Chevy, You have to branch out to old annuals. Steve

In this day & age of computer "everything", you have to expect problems on occasion! No big deal. We'll all survive! Steve

Just the standard Testors sanding film pack, or equivalent, works fine if you ask me. They have grits ranging from, coarse (150) to ultra fine (600). I usually start with medium (280) or 150 depending on how bad the mold lines are. Steve

More Primer!! I've come to the conclusion over the years that the more primer the better, especially when you're dealing with automotive lacquers. I usually use a good 4-6 coats of primer. That may be a bit of over kill, but I'd rather be safe than have things start etching on a rare vintage kit or the like. Keep in mind also that Duplicolor primers are a bit hot themselves & will etch the plastic themselves if sprayed too heavily initially. I start with a couple of light mist coats, & then spray successively heavier coats as I go. I haven't had any "ghosting" problems with the mold lines since I started using more primer coats. You can spray a lot of Duplicolor primer without having to worry about covering any detail. Steve

I know anyone who wanted to see this already has, but being as everything after 11/25 went "Poof" I just thought I'd add the engine pics to the build thread. Which I guess is where it should have been in the first place! Steve

Very nice! I've got one of these in the works right now myself. A convertible with a few Modelhaus extras to dress it up. It's funny, but I seem to see a lot of these done in either yellow or blue on this forum. My plan was "Silvertone Blue" on mine. I'm starting to re-think that. Maybe I should do something a little different. Great job! Steve

Everybody freaks out about these old Johan interiors! I don't get it. These are kits that were produced at the "dawn" of the model kit era. Most of the promos prior to this didn't even have interiors. Yes, I get it, the floors were shallow, but the detail & engraving were every bit as good as the other kits from the period. I guess if I have to decide between building a vintage '61 Dodge with a shallow interior, or "another" '49 Mercury, I'll go for something different & build the Dodge. Besides, with a little work you can make these interiors look very nice. Steve

I think I know what you're looking for George. You're looking for "mixing" charts kind of like in your local paint or hardware store where they custom mix your colors for you by starting with a base color & then adding measured amounts of condensed color to match a chip. I can't tell you where to find something like that for automotive paint but I just wanted to help clarify what you were looking for. Steve

Yeah Richard. They make all kinds of colors of embossing powder. I could have bought just opaque black & mixed it with gray or something, but I thought I'd try the glitter black. As I said, I like it on the floor, but it's a little crazy on the shelf. I might just cover the rear shelf with a black material of some sort too. Depends on what I can find. Give the embossing powder a try sometime. Works great! & you can pick it up at your local Hobby Lobby. Steve

I don't think so Chris. I just figured, being as I was in the process of flocking the carpet, I'd go ahead & do the rear shelf right away. Most cars usually have some sort of material on it. It's hard enough to find good shots of a '64 Chrysler with a white interior for reference, let alone shots of the package shelf. I'll probably paint over it. That way there will still be some texture, but your eye won't be drawn to the "glitter". Steve

Thanks Tommy!! Steve

Just tried my hand for the first with embossing powder for the carpet. It worked great but I need your opinion. I opted to try the "Glitter" black thinking it would simulate some of the "salt & pepper" carpet from the 50s-60s era. I think it looks ok on the floor, but it might be a bit over the top for the rear package shelf! My question is, should I shoot some flat black over the rear shelf to cover the glitter & leave the floor? What do you think? Steve

Do you know if there's ever been any year Berlinetta done in 1/25th? If so, if you could get your hands on one, you might be able to make a mold of the script & make your own. Outside of that......You got me! My printer won't even print well enough to print small detail decals. Steve

Thanks guys!! I like the green putty just because it's easier to see what my repairs look like contrasted with the white plastic. I usually don't use a lot of it. mostly small imperfections & sink holes. Haven't had a lot of problems with shrinkage myself. I don't have another '64, but I do have a '63 hardtop to do in the future. Steve

I have nothing but respect for anyone who can make one of these old revell kits look decent! Nice job Sam!! Steve

Thank you Hector!! Steve

Thank you Guy! I have really grown to love these old Mopars! So many people don't even know what cars like this are if or when they ever see one. Steve

Looks like he just did separate castings of the hood & fender ornaments & the tail light bezels. Those tail lights are a bear to foil! Just be aware that working with resin is a little different than styrene, but as far as quality, I wouldn't be afraid to buy from Don & Carol. I've bought a few kits from him & for the most part, have been satisfied. Good luck with that interior Tim! It's a lot of fun!! steve

Sorry Art! You beat me to the punch! steve

Scale Finishes is another one making paints for the hobby. I really have no idea what type of paint Scale Finishes or House of Color are. I've never used them. I just assumed they were lacquers. I personally use MCW paints almost exclusively. I just like the availability of factory colors & the scale of the metallic in the paint. Where else are you going to find 1958 Chevrolet Cay Coral paint. Costs a little more, but I think it's definitely worth it. Steve

Thanks Richard! I really like it too, & I'm not much for dark red. This is MCW 1964 Plymouth "Chestnut". Close as I could get to correct '64 Chrysler "Royal Ruby". Steve