StevenGuthmiller

😄 Steve

We understand that some claim to use it all of the time with no issues, but in terms of ease of use along with far less potential problems, the Tamiya paint is undoubtedly superior for our purposes. The fact remains that problems when using Rustoleum paint far outweigh problems with Tamiya. As I’ve said before, all that one has to do is spend a few minutes checking out the Facebook modeling groups to verify that fact. It’s just a much more difficult product to get right. Steve

Same price. Plus shipping. Steve

Yeah, I don't even have to watch the video to know the answer to this question. Steve

I despise them!! Especially on the Facebook groups where they seem to outnumber everyone else. You can try until your face turns blue to make people understand some of the basics of conscientious building, but it never really seems to sink in. Steve

That's a good thing to mention. I find myself routinely re-checking fit between the chassis, interior and body repeatedly, even after paint, just to dial in certain assemblies and parts, so you want your chassis to fit relatively tightly, but not so tight as to make it a bear to take apart again. Steve

If you’re decanting anyway, why not just buy this stuff? Thin and spray. Save yourself some hassle. Steve

I don’t even have one Javelin! Although I wouldn’t mind having one. 😊 Steve

Actually, the photo I posted was from the Spotlight Hobbies website. Kustom Khrome ceased operation some time ago if I'm not mistaken. Steve

Reading this thread is another reinforcing reminder of why I routinely replace kit glass with thinner sheet plastic. Kit glass presents numerous issues, and this is one of them. That said, it's usually a much easier operation the grind down the lower edge of the glass than it is to alter interior parts. Just put the glass into the body shell where it's going to sit, mark the glass from the inside with a sharpy just below the lower edge of the window frame, and then grind up to the mark with a Dremel. From there you can refine with files or sand paper until you get a good fit between the dash, door panels and glass. Again, these are things that should be done prior to painting and everything, but should you find yourself in this sort of predicament late in the process, it's much easier and less evasive to address the glass than to start messing with finished interior pieces. Steve

I agree 100%. I'm always amused when I see people trying to promote the idea that somehow "chrome" paint or ink looks more like chrome than actual chrome, (vacuum metalized on plastic of course) Never got that one. Steve

And then there's this. Steve

Why did you use chrome paint under the blue? I have little doubt that that is your problem. Prime with normal lacquer primer, and if you must, or desire a silver base under your color, use a normal silver paint, ultimately a silver lacquer such as Duplicolor. Then, for the ultimate adhesion, use a color of the same type of paint, (lacquer) over the top. I’ll never understand why people insist on mixing and matching all of these weird combinations of paint and then act surprised when it turns to feces. It makes absolutely no sense to me. steve

I agree with David. Mock up and test fit, test fit, test fit! And when you think you’ve got it all dialed in, test fit again! All of these issues should be investigated and resolved well before a drop of primer hits the surface. This is one of the most prevalent problems I see on the Facebook groups. People get into too much of a rush and their first instinct is to take the parts out of the box and immediately begin painting. And then they can’t understand why nothing goes together as they expected. I often don’t even begin painting the body until nearly everything else is finished, or has at least been so closely scrutinized that it’s without question that everything will go together properly. Once you begin to get into kit bashing and modifying, you’ll find that mock-ups and test fitting is probably the most crucial thing you’ll do during the course of a build. Steve

The Chrysler 300 is a ‘66. But I do have a ‘65 as well. Steve

Probably should have included my ‘67 Galaxie XL 427 R-Code. Steve

Although I love them all, I’ll limit this post to a few of the ones that I would consider my “Favorites”, in order. Steve

It’s from the AMT 1961 Mercury Monterey, without question. Steve

1961 Mercury. Steve

I'm sure this is just satire. At least I hope it is. If it's meant to be serious, it's just plain stupid. If you're alive, virtually EVERYTHING can kill you. You could make a list much like this for eating a donut! Steve

Very unlikely that anything you try to brighten up the chrome will work. As others have said, it’s most likely due to thinning of the metal layer, not oxidation, and even a mild abrasive such as toothpaste is still an abrasive and likely to make the matter worse. Unfortunately, refinishing is probably going to be the only option to bring it back. In that case, I recommend re-plating. It’s the only way that you’re going to get a durable finish. Steve

Personally, I’d just use the chassis and engine bay/firewall from the AMT ‘57 Chrysler 300 kit and.a Mopar big block from some other kit. But then again I’m not inclined to just plop an engine into a curbside kit. If I were going to commit, I’d go all the way, with a full detail engine, chassis and interior. But that’s just how psychotic I am. Steve

Absolutely! I love a good sloppy Joe or hamburger hot dish occasionally. Steve

For our Valentines dinner, Caesar salad with homemade dressing, Chicken Piccata, Garlic Linguine, and Olive Fougasse Bread. Steve

For my sweetie for Valentine’s Day. A Chocolate Fudge Layer Cake The cake is a mix, but the frosting is homemade. 3 sticks of butter in the frosting! 😛 Steve