mikemodeler

I have heard that they have been pushed to October.

I ordered parts from George on 9/3 and they arrived on 9/7. Awesome service and great product!

Donn Yost (RIP) was a big believer in using Testors enamels and hardware store lacquer thinner to get high gloss finishes. He produced a couple of DVDs showing how to do so.

It's been a year or two but they are fast with their service.

I have had great success with the quality of the product and service from this online seller. They have a ton of stuff for police/fire/EMT builds. http://www.customsquads.com/products.html

It is "germane to the thread" from the standpoint that, even though clinically researched and verified lifestyle options that can markedly improve quality-of-life are readily available to anyone, many people refuse them because they're "too difficult"...which is the "excuse" for not using an airbrush that elicited my response. Using this logic we can debate the cost of hamburgers at Burger King with the struggles of the rancher. Sorry, but the fact of the matter is Ace took this thread way off topic. And for some, diabetes is genetic condition that diet and exercise cannot fix and discussing that on a model forum is both pointless and not helpful in the hobby.

And that is how it should look- in your eyesight.

That kit was one of the first I built back in the day, wish I still had one. I remember seeing those long bed step side trucks and most of them were 3/4 ton work horses and if I could find a bed like that I would build it as a plumber's or carpenter's work truck. Nice work on making that side panel, hard to tell it isn't a kit piece.

Great work on converting that body, very clean! Best wishes for a happy, healthy baby and that Mom and Dad are doing well also!

I always was under the impression that the warped hoods were due to the molding process, not the tool. Kinda like how the ramptruck was riddled with warpage problems.

Wrong! A can of Rustoleum is cheaper than a tiny can of Tamiya paint. Someone else earlier mentioned that you can't use the Rustoleum paint after the first use, which is also completely false. People need to understand how paint works. The Rustoleum is meant to paint a garden chair in your breezy back yard successfully with minimal effort. The MrSurfacer (I personally believe Tamiya is better and I don't understand why HL switched it) is meant to spray plastic models in a confined environment. Naturally they are charged with different pressure, have different nozzles and they contents are not thinned the same. But if decanted and properly reduced they will work the same as far as their thickness goes. It is the same about paint attacking plastic. It is not the paint that is doing it, but the solvent that it is thinned with. You can have the exact same paint reduced with different thinners and it would interact differently with plastic and other paint. I think if you read my comments you will see that I made no mention of Mr Surfacer being cheaper as I clearly pointed out the prices and the quantity for each. What I DID say was that one product was specifically designed for model car building while the other wasn't. You mention above about properly decanting and thinning the automotive paint it will yield similar results. No one argued that point, at least not me, but the point is that one product is ready to use as is and the other requires more work and equipment. Keep in mind not everyone has an airbrush or the knowledge and skill to effectively decant and thin automotive paint for use in model building. I referenced Mr Surfacer as it was already mentioned in another post; I use Tamiya spray paints almost exclusively unless I have some leftover Testors lacquers to use up.

Yep, there are some who will argue with you that THEIR math makes it a bargain, no matter the outcome. That little can of Mr Surfacer, if applied correctly will likely cover several vehicles if there isn't a lot of work after it is primed. That Rustoleum will be so thick that panel lines will disappear and the final paint job will be as thick as that of an 1:1 car.

That was the price from a Google search. I try to limit my Wal Mart trips to once or twice a year.

Says right on the can....up to 4 times faster than other spray primers and 10 inch wide spray. That alone should tell you it is not for plastic models. 15 ounce can of Rustoleum primer from Wal Mart $16 5 ounce can of Mr Surfacer primer from Hobby Lobby $10 One is designed for model cars and works well and the other doesn't. Don't make it hard on yourself.

"was quite disappointed that the Revell new Bronco, while providing an opening hood, has nothing under it. " Ace, did you mean the AMT New Bronco kit ? The most recent Revell Bronco kit was of the first generation and it certainly has an engine depicted in it. I get that if we are building replicas of vehicles that have engines our kits/builds should reflect that, but as a builder who does little to no engine detailing when I build, the lack of an engine is secondary to subject matter or body accuracy. I have a couple dozen of Revell snap Camaros, Corvettes and Chevelles in my display case because they are representative of vehicles I would like to have if money was no object.

My go to is Wes's Model Car Corner as logistically he is the closest with great prices and service. He does a live show most Thursday evenings at 8:00 PM Eastern time on his Facebook page to show new kits and offer commentary on them. He also covers upcoming releases and news. Others that I use, in no particular order: Pegasus Hobbies- some kits, but mostly for their wheels. Burbank Hobbies- kits, magazines, wheels and Japanese kits. Hobbylink- kits and supplies. They have great service but tend to take longer to process orders which is not a problem for me as I am slow builder. Modelroundup- kits and supplies, Jack and his team offer great service and competitive pricing. I have never had an issue with any of the above vendors that wasn't resolved quickly and satisfactorily. Despite living in a large metro area I am without a traditional hobby shop and therefore rely on local shows or the internet to get my fix. I suggest you search them to see if they have stuff you are looking for and decide for yourself which one works best for you.

One of my wrecker beds will go behind another truck and the remaining cab/chassis Ford will get a dump bed.

Revell could make a lot of us happy by issuing kits of the various toys that could be pulled by different vehicles- dirt bikes, jet skis, ATVs, boats- either as stand alone kits or combos like the recent Broncos.

They have a Facebook page. They communicate fairly quickly via FB, place orders and pay with Pay Pal (at least I did for my two trailers).

The aftermarket is your friend. VCG resins has a L-6 250 cubic inch that would drop right in that Camaro.

Define "Kit bash" between those models? The 81-91 Blazer front sheet metal is different than the 73-80, so not sure what you can do between the two. The Sod Buster may yield a different grille, but that is about it. I think the aftermarket community will have some cool stuff for it that would be better suited for "bashing" the new kit. Already there are wheel and tires from Fireball that would be a natural, along with some of his other off road parts.

Put me down for a couple of those Blazers. I expect the 3D community to develop different grilles for it to depict all of the 81-91 model years. And I am sure the likes of Fireball will be busy with wheel and tire combinations and possibly lift kits to give us options. And if Revell can get that Camaro kit out before Round2 gets the long delayed reissue of the 78(?) Camaro kit, they can probably forget about selling as many because that Camaro kit looks to have 3 different hoods/build options. My model budget will take a hit later this year with all that is scheduled to hit, but it will be worth it.

That is beautiful Chuck! Love the weathering and details.

Maybe Admin can comment if he got some kind of ban or suspension.

Just read where Shapeways has shut down and filed Chapter 7 bankruptcy.