RancheroSteve

Same here - I just made it 4011. You'll be at 5000 in no time at this rate!

Here's a photo of my parts after just a small amount of clean-up. Not too bad for a first effort, IMHO. But as you can see, some of the bolt holes near the edges have blown out a little. Hard to tell here, but these parts are pretty tiny - 1/24 scale block plate, trans faces and rear block surface. I'm not sure if this amount of detail is pushing the capabilties of the system, but I'm going to take another stab at it in the next few days and see if I can get it a little better.

Thanks for the tips. I'll definitely try putting the piece in the sun next time before etching. I was actually rather pleased with how even the etching was overall - like I said, I think I'd just take it out about a minute sooner.

Well, I just had a pretty successful first run! A couple of observations: 1. As advised in the instructions, I used a yellow bug light when working with the photo-sensitive film (much easier than working in the dark). I prepared the film and laminated it to the brass last night and exposed it to sunlight at 10am this morning. 2. After my first test (a few days ago) resulted in too much of the film coming off, I exposed it to the sun a little longer than recommended this time around and also developed it a little less then recommended. 3. After that, the etching process went pretty much as described in the instructions. I checked the fret every five minutes. In hindsight, I think I could have stopped the etching just a tad sooner - I lost some of the fine detail on a couple of parts of the fret. I might also be pushing the boundaries as far as the amount of detail that can be acheived with this process, but that's something that I'll find out by experience. Pictures soon.

Has anyone tried dropping this body over the Polar Lights (Buddy Baker) Dodge Charger chassis?

I've only started using my kit this week. I'm taking it slow so far and making sure I understand all the steps and doing a few tests before I plunge ahead too fast and waste a lot of material. The film that is supplied with the Micro-Mark kit is designed to be used with ink jet printers. Since I have an Epson photo printer, I'm using that. It makes a good, dark black so I don't forsee any problems there. The kit also supplies two small pieces of Plexiglas and four clamps that are used to clamp the artwork and the laminated metal together tightly when you do the exposure to light. Based on a test I did yesterday, it appears that one of the more critical steps is getting the exposure to light and the developing times correct. I'm hoping to have some finished pieces in the next few days if all goes well.

Three guesses . . . http://public.fotki.com/Roullier/cars_cars_cars/ranchero/

I'm not a truck builder myself, but I thought you guys might enjoy this. This one-of-a-kind rig was recently built to transport a 340 ton boulder over 100 miles from a quarry east of Los Angeles to the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, where it will become part of Michael Heizer's "Leviated Mass". You can read more about it here: http://www.lacma.org.../levitated-mass We went out and saw it on the final leg of its journey last week. The full set of photos here: http://public.fotki....levitated-mass/

Thanks for the help guys - easy when you know how, right? Just a test:

First off, excuse me if this has been covered here before - I just did a search but couldn't find the info I need. I have both a Fotki and a Flickr account, and most of the time I use Fotki for pics I post here, but once in a while I have a pic on Flickr that I'd like to post. When I bring up the pic on Flickr, there's a "share" box that has a link, a BB code, and an HTML code. I've tried each of those - both in the icon from the toolbar above and in the body of the message - without apparent success. Thanks for any help.

I recently finished building this one. The frame is from a 1975 (I believe) Raleigh Professonal (their top of the line bike at the time), but otherwise I used more modern components. It's a fantastic ride - everything I'd hoped it would be. This is my third road bike, and the one that I don't risk letting out of my sight.

I went to the big scooter show at The Petersen Museum a few months back - I finally got my photos edited and uploaded. http://public.fotki.com/Roullier/motorcycles/scooters/

I seem to recall hearing that it is thought to be CSX2287. Most of this bit was shot in Griffith Park, around on the Valley side just up from Travel Town. Parts of that road are now closed to cars, but I ride my bike up there at least once a week.

It's the next thing in my Netflix queue. I've been looking forward to seing it for a long while.

Here's shot of the real thing for further illustration. I've got more if you need 'em.

Here's one I did many years ago (when the internet was just a baby). I only had a couple of color photos to refer to, so I just used some Testors enamels and went for an "about right" look. Most of the photos I've seen suggest a brighter white than Wimbeldon to me. MCW lists a color (#2067) for the red roof, but nothing for the white. I've built several Dan Gurney cars - after Jim Clark he was my favorite driver when I was growing up. Some of them I've shown here before. Below is a link to the album - I'll post pics and more details when I get time. http://public.fotki.com/Roullier/model_cars-1/gurneys_cars/

I'm loving this - you have my blessing! Also, I realize this isn't a factory stock build (haha), but if you don't mind a little "rivet counting" from me: I recommend sanding that lip at the rear of the cab roof flush. All the AMT Rancheros have it, but it ain't right and as the owner of a 1/1, it sticks out like a sore thumb to my eyes. Take a look at a photo of the real thing and you'll soon see what I'm talking about.

A unique and clever build!

Here's one built from the Gunze kit I did with the (lighter) Viking Blue from MCW:

The early Daytona Coupes were painted Viking Blue Metallic, the later ones were Guardsman Blue Metallic.

Does this mean that we'll be getting some of the RoG kits like the F1 and DTM cars at a more US friendly price? Or does it mean that we won't be seeing any more development of similar kits in the future?

Starting a new one. From a very simple R&R resin kit. I'm replacing the supplied vacu-formed bubble top (because it has some unsightly wrinkles) with a Plastruct dome. I think the toughest part of this build is going to be the paint and decals (none are supplied).

Just one small note from me - the Ken Miles figure sits in the car, and is also very thin, so that he sits rather realistically.

That sounds like you are describing Jim Clark's 1965 Indy winning Lotus-Ford. Google an image. Great info, as usual, Art!

I can see your point, but I think we can all agree that it's much harder to fool the eye with a scale figure. A lot of great modelers post photos of their builds here that have people asking, "Is that a real car?", but I can't recall ever seeing a photograph of a small scale figure that made me wonder if it was real person. Even Ken Hamilton's incredible dioramas rarely have figures. Having said that, Smith's work is pretty amazing and I'd like to see him take on that challenge.