Mark

Jo-Han used that "rubber band on the hood" deal in 1963. The reissue '63 Fury had the pin on the underside of the hood. I believe the instructions mentioned it, but don't recall whether or not one was included. I'm not sure about their '62 kits (only a few had opening hoods) but the USA Oldies reissues didn't have that feature.

All those metal clips did was scratch paint, potentially break the cowl, and hold the hood so tightly that it would wear the edge of the cowl if opened too many times. I never used them then, and don't miss them now. The upholstery stickers were used, I have seen plenty of builtups with them as wel as the remnants of cut sheets in parts boxes. The whitewall stickers went away after about 1964, they may have hung around a bit longer until the Trophy Series kits were all reboxed in the mid-Sixties. Those actually worked pretty well.

So, unless the tool was shipped back here for storage or maintenance, Atlantis won't have that one.

It all depends on where the most recent issue of each kit was made. USA: there is a possibility Atlantis now has it. China: Revell still has it, whether they intend to run it again or not. Simple as that.

Then the parts not shown are probably from earlier versions of the kit, and not usable anymore.

I've heard it more than once: "it's tragedy when it happens to you, it's comedy when it happens to someone else..."

Once electrics are more prevalent, there won't be many gasoline cars there in a few years. Japan is very technology conscious, people there tend to want the newest and latest thing. Cars themselves aren't kept very long, as I understand inspections are stringent and registration fees rise as a car gets older. The concept of used cars, or buying a second-hand car, is pretty much nonexistent there. A lot of the JDM high performance engines and other parts sold to enthusiasts here are from cars scrapped and parted out there when only a few years old, with not a lot of miles or running time racked up during the car's ownership there.

Closest thing I can think of would be in the AMT '29 Ford double kit, the part used on the rod chassis. And that is cut down quite a bit, to fit into a Model A frame. That was done a lot when early Ford V8 running gear was fitted to an A chassis. If you get some measurements, you can probably scratch an acceptable piece. I'd use about .020" sheet styrene for all parts of it. Some fiberglass body manufacturers have diagrams, with measurements, of Ford chassis. You ought to be able to find one online, print it, and scale it up/down to 1/25 scale.

Are both shown in the instructions?

Locally, I haven't got access to the BSI products anymore. The LHS that sold them closed in 2017, and the other one doesn't sell them (though they do carry a good selection otherwise). There is one shop here that caters 100% to radio control, they might just have them though. For super glue, I use the Loctite product. Available everywhere, cap design seals well and stretches the life of the unused glue. And it works.

It wouldn't be Budd Anderson...he left AMT in mid-1964. He was with IMC right after that, maybe for a year or so, then on to MPC.

You can't use regular styrene cement, or other solvent cenents because they won't dissolve the surface of the resin like they do with styrene. The solvent cement essentially softens the edges of the parts being joined together, and, once it evaporates, the two parts become one. That won't happen with resin. So you are left with super glues, or epoxies. Between those, I'd opt for super glue. Cleaning mold release materials off of the resin before doing ANY work on resin parts is a must! This includes gluing, trimming, grinding, filing, and sanding. Once you start sanding or grinding "dirty" resin, you're just embedding those contaminants into the resin.

I would always assume the tires will keep on doing what they have done up until now, and take the appropriate preventative measures when installing new wheels.

Or maybe scanned your money into someone else's account?

MPC issued their Datsun pickup kit with this bed, and California Step Side decals. Several companies made similar beds. Budd Anderson was involved with one of them, he sold out just before the fad died out.

The roof piece is from the AMT '62 Corvette hardtop (annual) Stylizing kit. It wasn't in the convertible annual kit, and of course not in any of the reissues. There were clear panels that fit the notched areas, and those had pins that allowed them to swing up. That was the only hardtop included in that kit. A stock one wasn't included. So, if you bought the '62 Corvette hardtop annual kit, and built the stock version, you ended up with a convertible, same as the convertible kit...which you could have bought for half a buck less in '62.

Yes.

Left: Fireball 500 trailer. Right: 1964 Corvette convertible trailer. I do not have a complete '64 Corvette Sting Ray kit. No trailer, only the car. If indeed the two Corvette kit trailers are different, then the Fireball kit's trailer is derived from the one that was in the '64 Sting Ray, not the convertible. Chris' photos above give the illusion that these trailers are different lengths. They are the same length.

The movie cars were Luminas (not Malibus) and were made by Monogram (not AMT).

Someone has stated that the trailers in the '64 Corvette kits (coupe and convertible) are different from one another in regards to the arrangement of those holes. As similar as the Corvette kits were, we now know them to be unique tooling with no parts shared between them. The coupe exists today as the '63 coupe. The convertible (what remains of it) exist as the soon to be reissued custom '68. I have had both '64 kits but never at the same time. I'm pretty sure I have one each body style now, but only one has the trailer. I never bothered to check against the Fireball 500 trailer because I was never crazy about that trailer anyway.

Showroom stock conversions of the MPC NASCAR kit (and the AMT Malibu, which is an earlier one) seldom look right, as the roofs on both bodies are altered quite a bit, and seldom corrected in the course of bringing them "back to stock".

Mom's '70 Torino, which my father bought new, but was on its last legs by 1977. My older brother ended up with it, he wanted the 302 for a Falcon sedan delivery he'd bought. I learned to drive stick in his '64 Chevy II, which had Fred Flintstone floors by early 1979. I ordered a new car with a manual transmission not knowing how to drive one, and learned about two weeks before it came in. The day I picked it up, I drove it about 200 miles. It was missing a part for one of the gauges. One of my brothers was off work that week so he took it to the dealer about a week later, it already had 900 miles on it. The car I bought in 2017 is an automatic, but that first car, and the two trucks I bought after that were both manuals. I practiced parallel parking with a '66 Impala with manual steering.

There is a Revell '77 Monte Carlo, but that's way different from a Malibu. Not one piece of sheet metal shared between the two.

Which, the Nova drag team? Nope, it was issued back in the day.

Woody Gilmore frame, same as in the Tommy Ivo dragster which was likely the first one planned, with other releases thrown in to maximize use of the tooling. Garlits usually built the frames he used, but not always. If I remember right, in his book he mentioned buying the ex-Jungle Jim dragster that the Attebury Brothers had built and (briefly) campaigned with JJ's name on it.