Snake45

I'm a big fan of a short bed. Turtledeck on a drag Altered, maybe.

Of the four choices offered, I'd take the Revell. I have no interest in this body style at all, but the Revell kit would have more/better parts usable on more interesting projects.

Deuce. It doesn't have the ugly awning over the windshield.

They might be good, might not. Shake 'em up real good and see what happens. Open 'em up and stir and see what happens. I've got paint that old that's perfectly fine, others that had solidified and can't be resurrected. Worth a try, though!

Yup, they were popular in my area too, and got great write-ups in the motor press. I drove a '77 or '78 Olds Omega 4-door with the small-block Chevy engine and upgraded suspension for about 10 years and it was a rocket--loads of fun!

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! If she'd really wanted to torture him, she could have peeled the barbed wire off Lucielle and sculpted it into a wire-cat.

I've often thought/said that TWD is a symbolic drama, an allegory, and it looks like you've picked up on that, too.

It's not a Skylark, it's full size, a 67 or 68 and the front side marker lights would seem to make it a 68. Wildcat? That was the top trim level and I'd think would have chrome trim on the window pillars. Maybe the next level down. Was that LeSabre in 1968? I'd have to check....

Very nice!

The primer and color coats on my Corvette will be rattlecan, but the clear enamel will be airbrushed. I'm pretty sure I'll be okay. We'll see, I guess. It's a glue bomb rebuild, not something ultra-rare, so I'm not risking a lot.

This figure demands a name plaque. Might I suggest: "DUCK!!"

That's about as out-of-the-box as you can get. Now that you've built it, I'd be interested in hearing your opinion about its shape and overall accuracy.

Can't disagree. After Rick FAILED to kill Negan with 1) a car, 2) a Kalashnikov, 3) a Colt Python, and 4) a zombie-disease-infected, barbed-wire-wrapped baseball bat on fire, I started yelling at the screen, "RICK! You had ONE JOB!"

I am the Poster Child for Adult ADD. I have dozens of half-done projects on the bench, and even more on several Shelves of Doom. I'm almost as bad as Ace. Last year I finished a model I started (and painted and polished) in 1994. Couple months ago I dragged out and finished a model I started (painted and polished) in the early '90s. It was stalled due to its not being "perfect." I finally decided to just treat it like one of my Toy Show Glue Bomb Rescues and just do what was necessary to get it "done." Right now I'm working on a model that I must have started in the mid to late '80s. The interior and chassis were done, the body painted and clearcoated. I just finished polishing it out, and all I need to do to call it "finished" is Silver-Sharpie all the body trim and stick the thing together. I'm hoping to kick it through the goalposts this weekend. Maybe this will be the year when I finish the MPC '69 Firebird that I started when it was a brand new annual kit.

Beautiful color and great finish!

I thought it was cool to see the homage to the original John Carpenter Assault on Precinct 13 in this week's episode.

Thanks Casey. I didn't look back that far.

Good to know. I actually thinned some of it with tap water for a particular wash I needed, and it worked great, but I don't think I'd want to try to airbrush it like that.

Good to know. I have it trimmed pretty close, but maybe I'll see if I can get it a little closer before I start slinging paint. I'm planning to use primer, two-three coats of lacquer, and then a couple topcoats of clear enamel. Funny how that would completely hide the scripts on a dozen kits I could think of, but it won't hide the edge of foil! (Notice I'm not doubting you--I believe in the natural perversion and cussedness of the universe, and in Murphy, so I believe what you're saying.)

Oh absolutely! You know me. I would spend a couple hours cleaning it, touching up the paint if necessary, Silver Sharpie-ing the trim, and painting the black on those Magnum 500 wheels (and I assume the grill could use it, too). It would look great on the shelf until the day I decided to strip it to naked plastic and do it up right--and that day might never come. Last year I bought a couple of "project" Scrambers/Americans I'm hoping to get two complete models of some sort out of, probably a gasser and a custom. I WISH either one of them looked as good as this!

I've been looking at the "craft paints" at Walmart and have even bought a couple for some particular detailing work. I've been favorably impressed, and am thinking of adding them to my painting inventory. So far I've only brushed them on small areas. Thinking of trying to airbrush them. Might get my feet wet by doing an interior or two before trying them on a body. Has anyone airbrushed the Folk Art (enamel) and/or Apple barrel ("acrylic") paints? What's a good airbrush thinner? I assume I'll need a good primer on plastic; thinking that my beloved cheap Walmart Flat White should work as well as anything. Can the enamels be polished out (if/when I use them on a whole body), or should I count on letting them dry thoroughly and then coat with a clear lacquer or enamel? Any other advice on these?

I also did the CORVETTE lettering on the rear panel, and the front and rear crossed-flag emblems. The latter, I'm just going to mask off with white glue but am hoping the polish-through trick works on the rear.

Very nice work, very interesting! Maybe when you get it finished, you can do an accurate '69 Firebird body, starting with the Revell '69 Camaro, and get it resin-cast for the rest of us.

I just foiled the sides of the Revell '69 Baldwin-Motion Vette hood to do this exact thing. Nice to know that it's going to work!

Very nice indeed! You really captured the spirit of these Junior Stockers.