Snake45

My HL had it marked down last week to $24.99, so I grabbed it.

Magnificent! Great color and great paint! And the Rally IIs look right at home on it! Well done!

I dug out my '67 Bonny last night for a quick look. Bought it off eBay 6 or 8 or 10 years ago for something like $50 and was glad to get it. It's obviously someone's "project" they gave up on. It's been paint-stripped and could stand some additional cleanup, but it's complete and straight. Only area of concern is, all three Bonneville emblems are very faint and might not stand up to paint. I might consider sanding them off completely. The thing came in a large ziplock baggie* that's quite full--haven't checked it all out yet. I do see all the major Bonny parts are there, and the front bumper/headlights is a resin repop (probably Modelhaus) but very clean and good looking. Looks like vac glass in the bag, too--again, no doubt Modelhaus. I saw there's also a complete chrome tree from an AMT '65 Bonneville or Grand Prix, and the custom grille from an AMT '63 Riviera, and who knows what all else in there. Now I'm curious to lay it all out and see what I've got. So with all the "positive waves" (as Oddball would put it) flowing, I'm in the mood to build the thing. Looks like a couple others are interested, too. Steve, can we all post our '67 Bonnevilles in this thread, or would you prefer to keep this as your thread and the rest of us start another one? Your thread, your call. *So I don't have the original box, but it DID come with original instruction sheet, which is cool.

Absolutely fabulous! I only have two of these, a P.38 and a Smith 29, and wish I'd bought more when they were available. (Should have bought a Luger at a yard sale a couple years ago, but waited too long.) If you're interested in trading off any of these, let me know. Would especially like to have the 4" Highway Patrolman, as I have a real one. I bought my P.38 in 1972 or so, and it cost $4.95, which was a LOT of money for a plastic model kit of any kind in those days. (Car kits were still $2, and it was only exotic imported airplane kits that sold for $5 or more.) The next time I saw them was in the late '70s, by which time the average price on them was somewhere around $30.

I've polished enough paint and plastic to tell the difference between polished and unpolished. My diecasts are NOT polished. They do look pretty good, though.

Very nice indeed! I love the color--what's the paint? Dread of the chromework has caused me to put off building this one for a couple decades now....

I've only got a couple of Danbury or Franklin cars, but they're clearly NOT polished. They're nice and smooth and shiny and nice looking, but they're not polished.

I've had one of these sitting (unstarted) on my "Shelf of Deplorables" for about 20 years. Bought it right after I built the Testor/Italeri GTO so of course I've always considered it completely substandard. I'll be watching your build for inspiration--don't let me down!

Different and nice. Don't think I've ever seen anyone flip the headlights on this kit before. Well done and model on!

I'm pretty sure a '67 ragtop was made, but I never had any interest in it so can't say for 100% sure.

Very nice, and something different!

I like the color! What's the paint?

Alan, finally got around to scanning that pic (only one) of Landy's silver '67 Coronet. Just sent it to you. Looks like you can get by with the same red DODGE and R/T as for the blue cars. I think you can pick up the DICK LANDY'S DODGE art and just print it in medium blue, though you'd have to add the smaller PERFORMANCE CLINIC underneath. From what I can gather, this car was only run at the '67 Winternats before it was replaced by the blue ones (or repainted). Oddly, this car was neither a WO-code nor an actual R/T, but had Coronet 440 trim (yes it was a Hemi).

In the same HL aisle as the Molotow, I found a Pentel silver gel pen with a very fine point that is working amazingly well for small details like nameplates. I didn't think it would lay down and stick to plastic or polished enamel, but it does. In the same aisle was a fine-point Pentel black gel pen that turns out to be absolutely perfect for doing the slots in Chevy Rally Wheels. Again, it lays down on everything including chrome plate. I'm sure I'll find dozens more uses for it, too. Where has this thing been all my life? Of course I'm almost notorious around here for my unabashed love of the Silver Sharpie. I bought two more of them at Walmart yesterday. I'm building up a nice stash/reserve of the things. They don't last forever, and I live in fear that someday they'll discontinue them, at which point I would have to give up car modeling and go back to airplanes.

Very nice indeed!

I think this might be my favorite model of yours. Well done and drive on!

Nice detailing on the grille and parking lights. Little details of this sort really bring a model to life.

Huh. Good to know! But I'll bet the Walmart nail stuff is cheaper. Did you know that the world's most expensive white vinegar comes in little bottles marked Testor Decal Set?

Tom, is that a promo? If it were mine, I'd polish the red plastic and go from there. So how many of us now have '67 Bonnies in the Build Stash--four or five? Are we in for a group build?

Here's another line that works well from time to time: "I'm thinking of selling all my model stuff and using the money to buy a motorcycle. A big, loud, fast, noisy one. And then I could hit the hit the road for a couple of days every weekend. Maybe even ride out to Vegas someday. What do you think, hon?"

My routine for tape residue runs: 1. More tape. (Fresh tape will often pull residue right off no problem.) 2. Windex. 3 Pure ammonia. 4. Rubbing alcohol. 5. LIghter fluid. I'm not sure where Goo Gone fits into this hierarchy, but I can tell you that rubbing alcohol will damage/remove the Testor lacquers. I have friends in Model Airplane World who swear by WD-40 for removing reside from clear canopies. Never tried it myself but I might have to someday.

If you REALLY want a nice chassis for a C2 Vette, get a Revell '67. I've picked up several of them cheap over the years, just "for parts." Personally, though, I actually prefer the beautiful simplicity of the wire-axle AMT original 1-piece chassis in almost all cases. But then I'm mainly into bodywork and paint anyway, not mechanical details.

Believe it or not, I have one, and have had it since new. My grandfather gave it to me. I painted it AMT Burnt Orange Metallic, one of my favorite colors back in the day. Still have it, and every so often I'm tempted to strip it and polish out the Anti Establish Mint green plastic underneath. But I'm leaving it alone for the moment--it's a relic of my youth.

Every so often I have to remind The Lovely Mrs. Snake that I can build models, or I can spend that time and money Chasing Strange. She doesn't have to think about it too long to vote for the models.

Wright's is water-based, and can be "cut" with water for a finer "grit." Unwanted tampo printing can often be removed with rubbing alcohol without bothering the underlying paint. If alcohol doesn't take it off, I've had good luck with Walmart acetone-free nail polish remover. Followed by a final polish with the Wright's.