peteski

Donny, this thread seems to be asking very similar question you asked in Bottom line is to select the model you want (not based on brand name, but on the subject), then ask opinions about the kit, like its quality, how easy it is to assemble, how accurate it is, etc. Many subjects are are only covered by only single manufacturer anyway.

WD40 is a low viscosity penetrating lubricant. It appears to consist of some heavier lubricant dissolved in slow evaporation rate solvent, probably similar to mineral spirits. If you squirt some WD40 out into a small open container and let it sit for several days the solvent evaporates leaving the thick yellow lubricant behind. When used on a model, even if WD40 is wiped of, some of the lubricant likely remains. Water and a dishwashing detergent removes it. Using a mild and quick evaporating solvent like Naphtha will not require the extra step of washing the model since it evaporates with no residue. If there is some residue left behind it is some of the BMF adhesive which was not completely wiped off. Then just repeat the cleaning and that should leave the model adhesive-free with no oily residue.

I would skip WD-40 (a lubricant) and just use Naphtha (aka Ronsonol Lighter Fluid). It is a mild solvent which leaves no residue when it evaporates. But don't let Naphtha sit on the painted surface too long (especially if the body is painted with solvent based enamels). Just a quick wipe or two should remove all the BMF adhesive residue. Ronsonol is fairly pricey (sold in small quantities). I buy Naphtha in the hardware store's paint thinners section as VM&P Naphtha. I can get it in quart or gallon size cans. I use it for many tasks (like cleaning and degreasing N scale locomotive mechanisms.

Thanks! My basement is working out just fine, although as my collection expanded I had to find bunch of nooks and put shelving there to hold more kits.

There are gazillion of opinions and answers on this very subject in this sticky thread: My suggestion is to check it out. That thread is 12 years old. No need to go back that far - looking at the most recent couple of pages should give you some general ideas of what members here recommend. Or we'll be just rehashing the subject here.

DJ, if you are unable to reset your password on the original account, contact @Dave Ambrose and he will reset anything that needs to be reset and also merge your old and new account. This should be easy and painless for you. Admins do not like members having multiple accounts. In the Forum rules you'll find the following statement: Only one account per user/IP is allowed. Any attempt to create additional accounts, for any reason whatsoever, will result in the banning of the IP, deletion of the account(s), and all topics and/or posts that were submitted to the forum.

Wow! I thought Air Trax resin moldings were better quality. That body was rather rough, but you sure did an excellent job smoothing it out. I'm curious how you will deal with the panel lines on the doors, etc. They look like they have been haphazardly chiseled with a hobby knife. Personally I don't see myself spending this kind of money on a kit which needs so much work to make it presentable. But we all have different skill sets and are willing to accept different types of challenges. My comfort zone is more with something like the kits Paul Hettick makes. While they are also resin cast from a hand-built master pattern, they are close in quality to what an injection molded kit would look like.

One hundred fifty? You're just a junior addict. A small fry. I have probably triple that (I stopped counting around 250), and there are quite a few here who have stashes of several thousands. It can get scary!

So you want this forum to become Facebook?!

If the decals were printed on an Alps printer which uses a waxy waterproof ink (which is likely since they have metallic silver color), solvents like alcohol (Microscale stuff is alcohol based) can dissolve the ink. I'm curious why were you applying the liquid decal film to that decal? Was the original clear film cracking? The liquid decal film will not attack any commercially made decals (printed using silk-screen or offset printing methods).

I guess I use different painting technique. When a procedure calls for a "solid black" color I apply enough paint to achieve that. Maybe to me that is just common sense. I also prefer heavier coats of paint to achieve orange-peel-free coats.

Black is black. Black is opaque. Why would someone recommend 2 coats when a single coat results is a solid black coverage? All that will do is build up the total paint thickness (which is not desirable on scale models).

I have to agree with you.

Sorry, I'm confused. With your statement "its 2" wide and how tamiya used to be but unfortunatelly it has no branding" are you are implying that the formulation of currently available Tamiya (Washi) tape has changed recently? Also, the frog tape is basically a standard (and fairly thick) masking tape with its very edge treated with some substance that absorbs water from water-based paints swelling it to produce a tight seal so the paint doesn't get under the tape. At least that was the special property of the Frog tape I tried.

I guess I'm dumb and have some sort of undiagnosed mental deficiency. What can I say? It makes sense now, but it didn't when I first read it.