peteski

Like any paint coating, primer has thickness (body) to it. Did you think it got absorbed into the plastic surface or evaporated? Virgin polystyrene is normally clear. But to make opaque parts, a filler and dye (to color it) are mixed into it. The color dye (red in your example) when exposed to solvents in the primer starts leaching out of the plastic and absorbed into the wet primer. Red dye and gray or white primer end up looking pink. The coat of primer is still there, just tinted with the red dye. If you were to scrape or strip it, you will expose the original plastic.

Donny, you didn't mention how experienced you are in model building. If this will be your first model, I would not expect the paint job to magically turn out "great". There is a learning curve involved in the prep/building/paint process. Your character traits (like fastidiousness or lack of it) will also play an important role in your build/paint quality. Your expectations are also very personal. What you consider "great" might not be the same as what someone else considers "great". Some modeler spend months building and finishing their models, theirs are happy with a quick (sometimes sloppy) 2-day build.

You should be able to read kWh the display on the meter itself to see if it is close to what is shown on the bill. You could start keep tracking those readings yourself.

I have the same exact saw blade, but I dont' recall who made it or where I got it (it was many years ago). Nowadays there is a variety of photo-etched stainless steel saw blades made for modelers. I also have never seen a short Exacto knife handle, but it should be easy to cut down a full length aluminum handle with just a hacksaw, and then use a flat file to smooth out the cut. If you need a very short handle, this might work for you: https://www.fiskars.com/en-us/crafting-and-sewing/products/craft-knives-and-blades/fingertip-detail-knife-loop-design-163050-1001

You have good weathering skills!

I find it laughable that a Ferrari has an 85MPH speedometer. What a joke! Silly '70s government regulations. I guess when driving a Ferrari you don't need to know how fast you're going.

There is nothing "little" about 1:6 scale models. They are BIG gems! But seriously, these do look like gems. Amazing what some people can design and 3D print on their own! Just like what is happening with AI, easy access to advanced CAD and 3D printing has totally revolutionized the model hobbies.

Mark, you make sense. But moderators (there are only about 3 of them) can't look over every thread or post made on the forum. If you feel this strongly about this, contact the mods with your reasons why this should be done. Every post (including the initial post of this thread) has a "..." symbol in the upper right of the post. When you click on it a menu pulls down. One of the options is "Report". Then just fill out the report, then "Submit Report". That will be seen by moderators and they can decide what to do. At that point you've done all you could.

Well with English being my second language, maybe I chose the wrong word. Maybe I should have used "ambiguous", "confusing" or just "doesn't making sense" would have been better than "contradictory". As I understand it, the first part of the sentence was contradicting the second part. If *ALL* red plastic *DON'T* bleed color, how can "SOME* bleed? "All" excludes any exceptions. Illogical! So sue me.

That statement sounds contradictory to me. How can some (red?) plastic kits bleed colors while all red plastic kits don't?

Yes, that is a good idea, but for water-based paints I recommend glass beads instead. BBs (either lead or steel, or even other metal) will react with the water and can discolor the paint. I learned this less on the hard way. Metal beads should be safe to use with organic-solvent (stinky) paints, but I have settled on using glass beads in all types of paints. After all, the agitator balls in rattle cans are also glass.

Price and quality go together. Sherline to me is a prefect balance of good quality and reasonable price. Also, if you were to search the forum ,there are multiple threads with your type of question. Here are couple. I suggest reading the info already posted to reduce duplicity.

Nice to see plated parts in a newly produced kit. Seems that some other manufacturers are skipping that step. I have these two kits from the original run by Galaxie (still unbuilt).

It might truly just be lost in the mail (like getting chewed up by a sorting machine), so it is possible that nobody actually saw what was on the bill. I think that scenario is more feasible than someone actually stealing the envelope.

Yes, "ghosting" can be a problem. As I understand coating the sanded areas with liquid cement (basically melting the plastic surface back into solid state) BEFORE priming and painting will prevent this from. But that isn't much help to you now.

Noel, here is another useful link to help out with scales of models of rail transportation: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rail_transport_modelling_scales Gauge is the distance between rails (not specifically a scale of a model), although colloquially gauge and scale are often intermixed. The 0 (zero) gauge or O (letter Oh) gauge is one of the gauges where several scales use track with the same distance between rails. But it is not alone. For example I model N gauge models (9mm between rails). It was originally used with 1:160 models, but in Japan N gauge models are modeled in 1:150 (since they represent narrow gauge prototype). Well except for the Shinkansen (bullet trains) models which are modeled in 1:160 because the real trains use standard gauge track. Some UK prototype models using 9mm gauge are 1:148 scale. Confusing? Yes. In general, many model railroaders are willing to put up with small size discrepancies and will mix/match models whcih all tun on the same gauge track even if the scale is slighty different. I have seen Nice H0 layouts (1:87.5) using Matchbox cars for automobile vehicles. Those are closer to 1:64 (which is actually closer in scale to S gauge trains). 1:43 automobile models can be used on 0 gauge models if you aren't strict as far as the scale is concerned. It seems opposite of some automotive modelers who are real "scale snobs" who split hairs when 1:24 and 1:25 scale is concerned.

LOL, I guess you never really listened to the lyrics? It is pretty clear. Although there was no LGBTQ back in the '70s. Other names were used.

Here is a handy resource listing model scales: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_scale_model_sizes

Attics usually get very hot (especially in the Summer's full sun). I hope that the plastic parts in all those kits didn't get distorted by all that kit. If they are warped, you will have no problem disposing them (into a recycling bin).

Can't you just edit that post and remove your email address?! Post are left open for editing by the author for several days. Also what exactly do you mean? You posted your active email address or the password to login to access your email account? While we try not to post our email addresses in open forums, I can guarantee that your email address has already been circulating in the Dark Web long before you posted it to the forum.

The USPS Informed Delivery service shows you photos of mail-pieces delivered to your mailbox, whether it's tracked or not. Mail theft has become a huge problem (especially in some neighborhoods in certain parts of the country). Having the ability to see what was actually delivered to your mailbox is very useful when you get home and check what is there.

I'm a big fan of Jean Michel Jarre's early work, but some of the later stuff is somewhat strange. But I also realize that this genre of music is not for everybody.

Revell didn't even chrome the "chrome" parts tree in the recently reissued Pointiac Fiero. Draw your own conclusions. They probably want you to buy and use their pricey chrome paint. But then again, maybe they did chrome this kit, and that used up their entire chrome budget, leaving other models with bare plastic "chrome" parts.

I have driven a Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T (Turbo) with 5-speed and I did enjoy that slightly laggy turbo kick. While not really topical for this thread, I have also driven a Tesla, and that mash-your-body-into-the-seat rush of INSTANT acceleration is there any time you step in the accelerator (pretty much at any speed). It was very impressive in a sedan without a 700+ hp. internal combustion engine.

Wow! Those exact tunes are my top two instrumentals. Now I need to play them! Classical Gas is also near the top of that list.