peteski

Unfortunately, many cottage industry manufacturers seem to be going that way. No website - just FB. Websiteseem so "last decade". I agree that it doesn't seem to be the best way to do business (I'm not on FB), but it seems to work for many of them. Websites cost money and have to be created and maintained, where FB is free.

Yea, I'm also wondering why, if you like the Badger, you ant to get a new airbrush? Don't be like the people who always buy newest iPhone, just because it is the newest (even if they really don't need all the new features). Since the problem is intermittent, it is likely your technique or the paint, or paint consistency.

That "Continental Kit" looks to me like it came from the Gunze Sangyo 1:32 scale '59 Caddy Eldorado. Looks to me like a good match. Besides I don't think Palmer had chromed parts. Just some creative kitbashing. EDIT: now that the center is shown, I still think it is from a 1:32 Gunze kit, just not the Caddy. There were other '50s cars with optional Continental Kits in that model series.

As far as I know, Revell AG (Germany) kits have been molded in Poland for quite some time now. At least several of the kits I own.

There is a Tamiya logo on one of them. While I have not built those specific models, Tamiya models by reputation are good quality models which fall together without problems.

Any pin-vise type tool with 1/8" shank collet works well to hold those PC board drills. I simply use one of several pin-vises I own.

Yes, that works really well for tires with white lettering, but many of use need blackwall tires with just black raised or recessed marking on them.

Yes, and also tired of the satin or flat finish factory-paint. They look like they need a serious polishing and a wax job! Give ma a glossy paint any day.

Assuming that the model in question was actually designed by the individual entering the contest, the fact that he spend as much time designing it on the computer screen as it would have making it from physical materials, and that they had too learn the CAD skills to be able to design the model in the first place doesn't count? Anyways, none of this likely matters all that much because 3D models are entered in the same contest categories as standard factory-molded model kits. My club's annual contest and other contests I have attended or participated in did not have "Scratchbuilt" category. I am curious which model contest actually have "Scratchbuilt" category. But when judging models my club uses a point system and one of the judging categories is "difficulty level". A scratchbuilt model will score much higher than a typical injection molded styrene kit.

If the paint you are using is plastic-safe (not "hot") and the plastic is white that I would skip the primer. Just prep the body and shoot the yellow paint. If you have to use primer with yellow body, use white primer for the reason mentioned in the earlier post. I avoid using primer whenever possible because it just adds another layer to the overall paint thickness (which, since model paint does not have "scale thickness" is already out-of-scale too thick).

As I mentioned, it seems to be a very personal choice. We're all individuals. Some like it bright, other's don't. As I mentioned, to me highly reflective 1:1 chrome surface does not scale to duller less-bright finish just because it is in smaller scale.

Yes, that tread (specifically its subject line) can be interpreted as more of a question than . The "looking for" the actual kit statement is buried in the post. The subject line shows "I will try again-not much info first time . . ." That sounds more like a question than anything else. It it was me I would have made the subject line something like "Looking for a resin kit of 63-65 AWB NOVA fastback". Very clear and direct. Then, in the body of the message placing the "lookign for" statement on the top would make it very clear. Like: Looking for 63-65 AWB NOVA fastback resin kit. New, built or rebuilder. Speed City use to make one but no longer does. Thank you-Larry Any info deeply appreciated.

They low end economy cars and the make didn't last very long. I occasionally see restored ones at local car shows. Here is some info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crosley I agree with others that the model looks great (and both the model and 1:1 car are rare).

I guess it depends on how fastidious of a modeler one is, but sand looks to me nothing like gravel. Even in 1:64 scale. I dug up some of my N scale ballast, and photos are worth a thousand words. No more guessing and speculating. Here we have a 1:64 scale Mustang on Woodland Scenics Medium size railroad ballast. Has a look very similar to the gravel in the 1:1 photo I posted earlier. It is actually still a bit too coarse. Fine size ballast would be even closer to scale, but all I had was medium size. Also, the shapes of the grains are similar to what gravel looks like. And like Mike S. posted, here's a thumb photo. Some of the smaller grains are about 0.64mm in size, but on average the grains are around 1-1.5mm. My ballast was purchased over 30 years ago, but I suspect the ballast currently sold by Woodland Scenics is very similar in size and color.

I don't know about post #5, but I mentioned N scale ballast material for 1:64 scale gravel in post #4, and still preaching that.

I have been always thinking of doing something like that. Bet me to it.

This is mainly model car forum, but I read FineScale Modeler Magazine which is more into other types of models. I have seen reviews of that brand of aircraft models and they usually get good reviews.

Looking at the size of that gravel compared to the thumb, as I see it, thise will be good size stones in 1:64 scale (not gravel). Maybe I'm seeing their scale differently from others? EDIT: I was looking over another thread on the forum and there was a perfect photo there showing gravel driveway. The average size of the gravel looks to be about twice the size of the lug nuts. In 1:64 scale that will be quite small. I would still recommend N scale ballast from Woodland Scenics.

I don't have a laser cutter/engraver but I'm always curious how things are done. Did you create the digital artwork for engraving from scratch, or did you use some existing vector images for the logos? How about all the other small lettering? What graphic software did you use? Something that came with the laser unit or some other graphic program? Also, did you mean 50,000 mm/sec? That seems awfully fast. That would be 50 m/sec or roughly 50 yards/sec.

I suspect that many original Palmer execs or employees are no longer with us. Here is a trip down the memory lane:

To have separate sections for car brands in addition to the vehicle type (cars, trucks, racers, etc.) would make the forum way too fragmented. But if members used tags for their threads (to identify the car maker for example) this is even currently possible. Problem is that most members do not want to be bothered with tags.

Back in the days that kit was made car manufacturers weren't contacted for permission or licensing to make a model. Some kit companies did engage car companies to assist with the model's development (and that is often mentioned in the kit's instructions to imply the model is accurate), but a kit could be made without any input or knowledge of the car's manufacturer. Things are quite different today.

That little ship came out really nice. Your modification made it so much better than the stock kit!

Unless the model is tied with a string to the base, it will not hover. It will fly away in some direction (if balanced perfectly) or just crash into the ground. Hovering requires complex stabilization mechanism.

I like the idea of using motorcycle license plate for the base. Looks good! The entire model is very monochromatic (silver) didn't the 1:1 engine have maybe touch of color in it, or it also looked this plain? Also how was the rear wheel mounted on the real bike? Seems that the exhaust pipes would not leave enough space to mount the wheel.