peteski

Donny, you posted this thread in Model Cars Magazine News and Discussions section. This is for news and discussion about the magazine. We will be posting news and announcements, and you are welcome to ask questions. As always, please be respectful. I'll notify the admins/moderators to move it to a more appropriate section. Probably Q & A or General discussion.

The size of the build plate and depth is important but so is the printer's resolution. The finer it is, the less of sanding/filling you will have to do. Some more current printers print items almost as smooth as injection molded plastic. What good is a printer which can print large items but they look like they are made of Legos? Yes I'm exaggerating slightly, but I'm making a point.

I really don't have a clue what sidcharles' post had to do with anything discussed here.

I know what you mean. You can help admins/moderators by notifying them about threads or posts in the wrong places. I do this fairly often. Just click on the "..." on the upper right of a post (if it is a thread, do this in the first post of the thread) then choose "Report Post" and that you just way to tell them about it, then in the message area just tell them what the issue is. The number of moderators is small and amount of daily posts is rather large and they can't possibly look over the entire forum for misplaced posts/threads. They are grateful if you can point them to those posts/threads so they can move them. See this post from Les (one of the mods) indicating they appreciate the assistance.

What I was saying is that the body 000-120 nut is out of proportion to "standard" nuts. As you can see overall size of 000-120 nut is the same as 00-90 nut, but 00-90 nut has the proportion of a standard nut. In my application it was all about what looks "right" to me. I thought you were going to use nuts in conjunction with the threaded rod.

I would like the forums divided into more theme specific sections. I really liked the way things were before the "big reshuffle and combining forums", but I also understand that it is a huge job to go through 10s of thousands of posts to shuffle them around. For example I liked for the Big Rigs to have "general" section where truck specific-items and question would not get lost in the all-encompassing "general" section. I also liked large scale to be on its own. I'ma lsointerested in the "pay to play" no-ads option.

Yes, the 000-120 nuts are way oversize, wrong proportions. How about using 00-90 hardware? Yes, it will be a bit oversize but at least the nuts have the correct proportions. I used that size on the axles in my Peterbuilt Wrecker kit. I used plain brass rod bent into a U-shape and cut threads (using 00-90 die) just in the ends to accept the nuts. It looks pretty good to me.

Jose, that is an interesting subject but carsntrucks4you (Mike) is the only one who is supposed to be posting the quizzes. You are new here so you likely had no idea. The sticky post on this forum has the rules (but this is not spelled out in the first post).

Don, the thing is that back when you were in the hobby decades ago none of these "problems" or complications existed. All the model companies were separate entities and the molds were much newer (with less wear). Sure, there was probably some kit re-boxing going on, but that was minimal. But even then, there was no absolute answer as to which companies kits were better, because even then everycompany had some excellent and some not-so-great offerings.

No all big rig model tires are the same size. You might have to get few sizes (they are not very expensive) and experiment yourself. Here is some additional related info:

Like Greg mentioned PVAE glue gets the bond strength from bonding porous surfaces which will give glue some tooth. Using PVA glue on any smooth non-absorbent surface will result in very weak joint, so it is well suited for plastic kit mock-ups, but it takes tome to dry. UV-cured resins (sometimes passed as glues) will make a good mock-up as they do not bond smooth plastic surfaces well, and cure fast.

There are no recent MPC or AMT, or AMT/Ertl kits because those companies have not existed for quite a few years (or decades). If you see kits branded for those companies, they are older kits. But the rights to those names (and often some older molds) were acquired by new model companies which do production runs using those older molds. Sometimes those companies modify old molds to add some features or correct some problems. Sometimes they reprint old decal artwork, other times they run new version of the decals. Basically there is no simple answer as to which brand kits are better than others. You have to research the specific models you are interested in and compare them with others. Then of course are Japanese model companies too.

Age bias maybe? Going by my recent experience I suspect it is real.

This question was already answered by Len Woodruff earlier in this thread. It is usually beneficial to read older posts of threads like this.

It probably depends on the vehicle being modeled. Some cars have those items made of aluminum which can be polished or slightly duller. But many American cars from the '50s (the chrome and fins period) had chromed windscreen moldings. They looked as shiny as other copious chrome pieces on the car. Some modelers also believe that scaled down chrome should not be as bright as on 1:1 vehicles. I'm not one of them. I believe the model chrome should be as bright and shiny as on 1:1 vehicles.

True, only that type uses some special stretchy and pliable metal alloy, not just a plain thin aluminum foil like used for the others. While it has slightly "warmer" look, they way it conforms to details makes it the best of the bunch. My models appeared on the BMF packaging not too long after BMF company introduced their Ultra Bright Chrome, which I eagerly tried. While shiner, it was much stiffer and wouldn't conform to complex foiled areas without wrinkling or tearing. I suspect they brought out the new foil to compete with Detail Master's newly introduced their Foil, where they indirectly stated that it was much better looking than the BMF. I tried the Detail Master foil too, and just like the BMF Ultra Bright Chrome it was stiff and unusable on any complex types of moldings or scripts. I was worried that BMF would discontinue the original Chrome foil so I mailed them a letter describing my poor experience with the new stuff. I also included few 4x6 photos of my models where I used the original Chrome foil. The company owner (he has since passed away and his son took it over) reassured me that the original Chrome will continue being made, and he also asked me if he could use my models in their ads. I agreed of course as I thought it was an honor to have my models featured by the company making my favorite foil. The rest is history. BMF also used my model of green/white Ford Sunliner in some of their ads with appeared in hobby magazines (like FineScale Modeler). BMF had some supply issues around the COVID pandemic time and for a while produced a sub-par foil, but I believe by now those issues are resolved. They seem to have renamed the Chrome foil to New Improved Chrome (probably after the COVID time debacle), but it seems to be the same soft stretchy and easy to work with foil as the original Chrome. I suspect that some of the bad foil is still hanging around in some hobby shops. If possible, get your foil directly from BMF, or make sure to get the "New Improved Chrome".

It's a real model car Steve. 1:32 scale curbside by Gunze Sangyo. Sitting in my display case. Gunze produced a series of '50s and '60s cars in 1:32 scale and I've build few of them. Around 20 years ago. For some reason this model had no wiper blades, so I scratchbuilt them. Here is a '57 Cadillac from the same series. This was the first model I have used BMF on.

BMF Here's the model featured on the BMF packaging.

No inspection of any kind (including emissions test) will be required in NH. The safety inspections might be a joke but at least they did check if all the lights are working, steering linkages are tight, and tires aren't bald. With all the yahoos driving around here at least that gave us a small piece of mind. Emmisions were simply checked by connecting OBDII port to their computer and reading whatever parameters they needed. Pre-OBDII cars weren't emission tested (there aren't many left).

I get it Bill - I had same thing happen to me when I had my house upgraded to a 200A service and the electrician miswired couple of circuits. The bottom line is that there is up to 240V present where it should be 120. Yes, if you have some high wattage (read: low internal resistance) series connected to some low wattage (read: high internal resistance) appliance, the low wattage appliance will see most of the voltage across its power leads. If the low-wattage item designed to only work in 120V, it will fry, while the high wattage item will survive.

New Hampshire just got rid of the annual car safety inspections. Drive any car you want in any condition. Old wreck with fenders falling off and bald tires? Sure, it's ok. A Monster truck with huge tires sticking out? Why not! It will be interesting to see how that works out after couple of years. I doubt that cops will start enforcing safety laws any more than they have been not doing already. Live free or and die.

While I didn't bother looking for the specific model, the "silver streaks" (or old man's suspenders) told me it was a Pontiac. It is a good looking car.

I don't think Rustoleum (owned by RPM) manufactures Testors paints in China, but I could be wrong. Stranger things have happen. If this is accurate info: Rust-Oleum manufactures product in Pleasant Prairie, Wisconsin; Hagerstown, Maryland; Tulsa, Oklahoma; Lesage, West Virginia; and multiple other locations in the United States and Europe. No China is mentioned. But (especially since COVID pandemic) it seems that most consumer products are now manufactured in batches with some periods of unavailability before new batch is made available. I notice this a lot with all sorts of products. You might have to try finding and ordering it online. Yes, the shipping charges are usually outrageous (for a 1/4 oz. bottle) but think of how much gasoline you have used up driving around looking for it locally.

Has to be illegal, but nobody enforces any automotive laws, rules or regulations anymore. When my GF sees these on the road she says "sorry about your (insert male sexual organ name here)". She says these are driven by guys who have feelings of inadequacy. They need to reinforce their manliness by driving these vehicles. One thing missing in that truck are a pair of tall exhaust stacks behind the cab spewing black diesel smoke. Every fad finally fades away, but this one has been sticking around for some time.

That's correct. Unless it is clearly specified, power strips do not contain any surge protectors. They just have circuit breakers to protect from over-current. Even the popular power strips with built-in surge protectors are of questionable usefulness. I believe in Ace's case (lost common neutral), certain circuits in is house ended up with 240V instead of 120V. Many foreign-made modern appliances are design for worldwide operation and can work on 100-240V, some aren't.