peteski

One week works for me. I'm also surprised that with all the precautions moderators take there are still scammers getting through as legit users. Between all the scammers trying to scam people and general population seeming to get more and more gullible, we sure live is in crappy times.

Not surprised. Misunderstood or misheard song lyrics are a "thing". See https://www.kissthisguy.com/

@stitchdup For quite some time editing capability has already been limited to just few days. Are you shortening it to even less time? How much time? I often come back to my post next day and see something that needs to be corrected (I'm far from perfect and spell checker also doe not work very well).

Yes, those striations or artifacts of how the printer prints the item one layer at a time, are due to the thickness of the printed layers. It could be that the layer thickens is configured to be too coarse, or it might just be that the specific printer simply does not have the capability to print thinner layers. I suspect that it is the latter reason. Vendor's printer is likely a lower resolution printer.

For most realistic metal finish BMF is it. Just like their slogan states "Bare-Metal Foil looks like metal because it is metal™". It was also originally developed and sold for natural metal finish aircraft models. Using it for automotive chrome trim came in later. And sorry Bill to jump in here again, but the original BMF "chrome" (and now "Improved chrome") is *NOT* just an aluminum foil. It is some sort of soft, pliable metal alloy which is why it conforms so well to complex curves and raised surfaces. It also has a slightly "warm" metal look similar to how nickel looks like. You can easily verify that it is not aluminum because it will melt at low enough temperatures needed for soldering. If you have a soldering iron, you can easily test that. You can't melt aluminum using soldering temperatures (500-800 deg. F). Later on BMF also started manufacturing the "ultra bright chrome" foil. That is just aluminum foil, but it is nowhere as easy to work with as the original BMF stuff because aluminum is much stiffer than that special metal alloy. But it looks just like bright shiny aluminum. All the other color foils BMF sells also are the stiffer aluminum type.

Tamiya X paints are plastic safe. Thinning them with Lacquer Thinner might make them no longer plastic safe. Standard hardware-store Lacquer Thinner is a "hot" solvent which can attack (craze or soften) typical kit plastic. Actually different brands have slightly different formulations, with some hotter than others. Alcohol is plastic safe and the X paints do contain alcohol, so that seems like a safer alternative. Just don't use rubbing alcohol (as it is diluted and might contain other ingredients).

I'm for red light cameras which are used just by police for enforcing traffic laws. It is those new flock cameras that get my knickers in the twist. They are totally different animal and they seem to be sprouting everywhere (not specifically at traffic locations) like mushrooms after it rains.

It is pretty laughable that these are considered as rights violation when more and more of those pesky flock cameras are popping around my area (and everywhere else in the U.S., and nobody seems to be upset that those are basically tracking us, aggregate all sorts of info about use, and sell that to for-profit-companies and to law enforcement. I should start another thread about those. EDIT:I actually did start new topic about those Flock Cameras last night but that topic seems to have !poof! vanished. I didn't think there was anything political or forbidden in it.

Good advice for drilling metal, but not needed for drilling plastics. They cut plastic like hot knife through butter.

Well yes, they are very hard and the real small sizes can be fragile if not handled properly, but I almost exclusively use PC board drills in my hobby, and while I have plenty of spares, I don't break them often. I guess it is all in ones tough and handling. I hold very small ones shank directly in my fingers, and when I use a pin vise I prefer ones which have rotating top. I can rest the top in the palm of my hand while using the thumb an index finger to spin it, Only few of the alternate holders described here have that helpful feature. To me the advantage of the extremely sharp split-point cutting surface outweighs their inherent fragility. Storing those bits securely also reduces the breakage from accidental dropping. Here is my collection gathered over the years.

Oh yeah, the good old days . . . Why? Because the minimum wage in the '70s was less than $2/hr, and a loaf of bread cost 25-30 cents. It is called inflation, and while if someone is old enough to remember, those are pleasant memories, that is never to return.

Actually the Tamiya acrylic paints in the glass jars aren't true water-based acrylic paints. They use alcohol as a low-odor solvent. They seem to behave more like the stinky solvent-based paints than true water-based acrylic paints.

Actually, including in the Forum Rules sticky thread the number of posts required to be taken of moderation would make sense to reduce the need to ask this type of question. "Moderated for a while" is not very informative.

Looks like the original video was pulled down?

Some model railroad "people" figures from various companies (German and Japanese) are now 3D printed using the full color printing process. Those are tiny (1:160 scale).

Yeah, this type of authentication is getting out of hand. Looks like you are using a smart phone. Can you try logging in using a "regular" computer? I just tried logging in on a computer and I can see that they did change things. Even before I login a popup showed instructing me to slide a slider to the right to verify I'm a human. After that I got the regular login prompt. Looks like more and more companies are trying to prevent AI-based hacking.

What email reader are you using? What exactly does the "undeliverable" email show? Copy/paste its contents here (editing out your or any email personal address you don't want to publicly show here). That email should give a clue as to what's going on. Even better if you could copy/paste the entire raw email (again, editing any email addresses you don't want to show here).

I agree 100%. I was just presenting some excuses I have heard from businesses that only used FB.

Now that is, IMO, some logical thinking. I hope you go that route and good luck!

Unfortunately, many cottage industry manufacturers seem to be going that way. No website - just FB. Websiteseem so "last decade". I agree that it doesn't seem to be the best way to do business (I'm not on FB), but it seems to work for many of them. Websites cost money and have to be created and maintained, where FB is free.

Yea, I'm also wondering why, if you like the Badger, you ant to get a new airbrush? Don't be like the people who always buy newest iPhone, just because it is the newest (even if they really don't need all the new features). Since the problem is intermittent, it is likely your technique or the paint, or paint consistency.

That "Continental Kit" looks to me like it came from the Gunze Sangyo 1:32 scale '59 Caddy Eldorado. Looks to me like a good match. Besides I don't think Palmer had chromed parts. Just some creative kitbashing. EDIT: now that the center is shown, I still think it is from a 1:32 Gunze kit, just not the Caddy. There were other '50s cars with optional Continental Kits in that model series.

As far as I know, Revell AG (Germany) kits have been molded in Poland for quite some time now. At least several of the kits I own.

There is a Tamiya logo on one of them. While I have not built those specific models, Tamiya models by reputation are good quality models which fall together without problems.

Any pin-vise type tool with 1/8" shank collet works well to hold those PC board drills. I simply use one of several pin-vises I own.