peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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Looks like something that could be fairly easily designed in CAD and 3-D printed. Then that could be made as a master for making more resin copies. Mayne some 3-D designer could be talked into rendering this item?
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Isn't the surface of the nose where the emblem is located convex? So the mold's surface will be concave. How do you squeegee a concave surface? Curved squeegee?
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On 3/6/2019 at 11:14 PM, mod3l Lover said:
That is very true, a old cathode ray type TV has a capacitor that discharges
a 30,000 volt buzz that can kill you also!! Even unplugged!!
While the high voltage statement is accurate, it is not a capacitor. The CRT tube itself acts as a capacitor - the CRT itself holds the high voltage charge. Be careful with those!
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If you want to see many examples of what can be done with Photon printers, check out https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=45736.0 It is a very lengthy tread, but if you just scan through it and look at the photos, you'll be amazed. I know I am!
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On 3/9/2019 at 11:05 AM, kymdlr said:
old thread I know but.... Ive had a fine point moltow pen for over a year now. At first the chrome results were amazing and looked just like plated parts . I had zero problems appying it to any surface. The pen has always been stored laying down and indoors. Now my pen isnt producing any effect like it was in the past, now it is simply a silver paint coming out. Ive tried shaking it excessively and cleaning the tip w/ alcohol with no change in results. Does the chrome have expiration ? Anything else I can try or should I just buy a new one?
It seems that the solutions provided so far (pumping and alcohol rise) are for lack of any paint coming out of the pen. That doesn't seem to be your problem.
While I don't have a solution, I wonder of the liquid chrome (paint) inside the paint thickened up, so when it dries the metallic flakes will not lay flat, align, and create the chrome-like surface? Can you tell if the liquid that turns into regular silver paint is thicker than what you remember it to be when the pen worked properly?
I suppose that is would not also hurt to thoroughly rinse out the tip and the cavity that holds the tip. I would use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol, but 91% should also work. I would take the tip out and using a pipette, flush out the cavity that holds the tip. Then soak the tip in multiple baths of alcohol to dissolve the paint caked up in there.
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5 hours ago, martin9428 said:
looks like the love child between the Gremlin and an LTD
Yeah!
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19 hours ago, Flat32 said:
Edited the topic.
Thanks - makes much more sense now.
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Interesting info. But since this is about plating, may I suggest that you change the subject of this thread. "Spoon test" is not very informative or describes what this thread is all about. You only have 3 days to edit the post.
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53 minutes ago, Bucky said:
1975 Ford Flashback (Ghia)
What I see in it is some sort of weird angular version of AMC Pacer. Looks pregnant!
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If Pledge Restore is a new name for what we in the past called "Future" floor finish, then if the car is already finished in glossy surface, there is no need to apply it before decals. If you apply it after decaling, then it will act like a clear coat sealer for the decal. I'm not a user, other than as an occasional dip for clear model parts.
But if the paint coat on your model is flat then applying a coat of "Future" woudl give you a glossy surface which is desired for decal application. Then after decaling, you can apply the top layer (for the same reason as mentioned above).
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11 hours ago, Snake45 said:
That might be one of them. Others are Learning Channel and A&E. Oprah seems to have her own channel now, showing a LOT of Dr. Phil (he might be on one channel or another 24-7 now), and he can usually be counted on for lowlifes and freaks.
Arts & Entertainment (A&E) channel? The Learning Channel? I remember when these showed wholesome programs. I haven't watched them for years though (not included in basic cable service I'm getting). What has this world come to? I also remember when MTV and VH-1 actually showed mostly music videos.
Obviously thought, enough people watch the stuff those channels show. I also don't get the popularity of all the reality shows on TV (like the Bachelor or Survivor).
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To me the term seems to be very clear (but often misused). Professional (or a Pro) is a person who's profession (and income) is whatever he does for a living. If someone builds models for profit, then he is a Pro builder. So if someone builds model for sale anywhere (doing it on commission, or even doing it on eBay), he is Pro. But by that definition, one of those eBay "Pros" can also be a hack - as long as he can sell his models as they were (poorly) built.
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While not a fan of those plastic Aztec airbrushes, the engineering plastic they are made of is (or should be) resistant to lacquer thinner or other solvents like acetone. I would be surprised if the plastic parts were affected. But those airbrushed have sealed nozzle units and they cannot be disassembled for cleaning. I suspect hat most of their failures is due to clogged nozzle units. As mentioned earlier, some water-based paints actually curdle when exposed to strong solvents (like lacquer thinner). If that happens in an Aztec, the nozzle is trash.
It makes most sense to get airbrushes made out of metal and ones which can be fully disassembled for thorough cleaning (when the need arises)..
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6 minutes ago, Pete J. said:
Ok Pete, were in the heck did you get such huge money!
It's scratchbuilt.
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With all the work you did, you should have used them as masters, make a mold and cast more in resin.
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While of course it is true that different lenses have different working distance, it is all about the magnification factor. The lenses with higher magnification have shorter working distance. I use #7 plate because I need fairly high magnification to work on my projects. That also results in a short working distance, but I fully expect that and have no problem with that. If one does not desire higher magnification factor then a pair of cheap dollar-store reading glasses (rated at +2.75 or higher - at least that is what I use) will work just as well as a headband magnifier with one of the lower number lens plated. I wear the Optivisor when I need the magnification. Then for even stronger magnification I use a stereo microscope. But I realize that this is an overkill for most modelers, but some of my models are quite small, so I find the microscope indispensable.
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On 2/28/2019 at 4:38 AM, MrObsessive said:
I think he's talking about the accelerator you use to harden it up. I did have that soften the plastic......not the CA glue alone. And yes, CA can eat right into paint too.
Ah yes, some brands of accelerators can easily attack plastic. They use things liek acetone as their solvent. Zap-a-Gap I believe is one such accelerator. That is why my go-to CA accelerator is the BSI brand. Very mild and will not attack styrene (even clear styrene). It might slightly mar fresh paint, but not like the acetone-based accelerators.
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I don't ever recall any CA glue melting styrene, but liquid CA will readily start dissolving paint.
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Since you chose to go with the Optivisor (wise choice), I recommend that you spend the few extra dollars and go with the DA model. It is well worth it.
I own the DA model. They have cheapened the Optivisor's design a bit from the 30-year-old model I have. The adjustment knob is now plastic (mine was metal) and there are few other shortcuts they took. But it is still worth its price. The leather band on the forehead side makes it very comfortable to wear.
I have multiple lens plates (LP-4, 7 and 10). I used to use 4 but now I pretty much use 7 exclusively. #10 is a bit too strong. I don't use any add-ons on it (like loupe or LED lights). MY workbench lighting is very bright. Like others said, it might take a while to get used to, but once you do, you won't wan to take it off your head. I also often wear a pair of cheal reading glasses under it so I can lift the hood and work without magnification. You just need glasses narrow enough to fit inside the hood.
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Mixing liquid semigloss paint with gloss will never yield a fully glossy finish. But if you apply the semigloss paint first, then after it is dry, apply clear, you should be able to achieve nice glossy finish. Just make sure that the paints are compatible, so the bottom layer doesn't not wrinkle.
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1 hour ago, 89AKurt said:
Oh wow, thanks for showing this. You remember what brand glue? I've done this a lot, so will check out old projects.
The glue is not the problem or cause of this - it is the baking soda.
I've seen examples where the CA glue did not fully get soaked into the baking soda. When moisture (if you live in a humid climate) gets to that baking soda (through some pinholes in the glue), it will be absorbed by the baking soda (because it is water-soluble), and the whole mess will start oozing out. Bottom line is: using home-brewed solutions is not always good idea.
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10 hours ago, Lunajammer said:
I figured it was heat tinting with some new or refurbished blocks added.
With it just metal against metal, it makes me wonder how they can even make make a part without flash oozing everywhere, but still get clean, tiny detail parts just fine.
The surfaces are machined flat, and there are tons and tons of pressure holing the mold halves together. The liquid plastic is also injected under very high pressure, so it fills all the cavities in the mold. As the molds wear out, the flat surfaces are not so flat, and that is where flash on parts comes from - the plastic starts to ooze in between the mold halves.
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Thanks for this post and the photos! I never thought that CA/baking-soda thing was a good idea, and I always recommend not doing it. Especially, since the CA accelerators are readily available, and so are many different filler materials (if needed).
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Thanks for the info Mark. My next question is: what exactly did you use for the ignition wires? The color and surface finish looks very realistic (like silicone-insulated wires). But you couldn't really apply waterslide decals to that type of material and have them stick. Also, did you seal those decals with some clear lacquer, or just applied and left it as it was?
3D printing
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted · Edited by peteski
Not yet - I need to first get better at 3D CAD. It takes time (and I have lots of already started non-CAD projects). I hope to do that someday and to get my own machine, but for now I can ask my Railwire friends to print my designs (when those are ready).
And you're right - I do remember posting a link to that Photon thread elsewhere in the forum.