peteski

Bobby, are you also a member of the Showrods forum?

Nice Chopper!

That, and I seem to recall that Micro-Mark sells their own version of Ambroid.

Well, Molotow inks are alcohol-based. I haven't tried, but it will probably be safe. But anytime I try new technique I try it on some unimportant piece of plastic (like a plastic spoon). Just coat the spoon with whatever finish you would have on your model (including the Future), then apply the Molotow over it. Also, you used a common misnaming: Future (or whatever its current name is) is *NOT* a floor wax. Wax just cleans and shines the surface it is applied to - it has not appreciable thickness. Future is a floor finish: It is actually an acrylic clear coat which goes on much thicker than a wax (it is more like a clear lacquer).

True, but when you do get one you can find thousand uses for your hobby, and another thousand uses for your household projects. For example you can scratch-build lots of round shapes for your car models. Lathes are not just for drilling center holes.

Looks like there are 3 small button-size batteries there? Yes, those LEDs will work directly with those batteries. I would add a 100 or 200 ohm resistor in series to limit the current, but since these small batteries cannot provide much current to begin with, they will self-regulate. As for the LED shape, you can file the clear resin LED case to any shape you need, as long as you don't get too close to the internal parts. Or you can buy much smaller LEDs (smallest available LED has a footprint of 0.020" x 0.010"). That is smaller than a head of a pin. If you are not into electronics and want ready-to-use lighting kits, check out https://lights4models.com/ . These are not for free, but they work well. Select Vehicle or Vehicle Modern (or any other types you like) on the left side of the Web page.

One of my favorites too. I own one of these . . . in 1:32 scale.

Sure, good idea. And the next dish will look more presentable but will have some "special sauce" or another surprise in or under it (if you know what I mean). I do not like to be nasty to the waiters or cooks in restaurant until *AFTER* I finish my meal. Call me overly cautious . . .

If you want to use the original circuit, just with a white LED, you can easily substitute the green or blue ones for white. There are thousands of cheap LEDs available on eBay, in many sizes and colors. Your LEDs look like T-1 (3mm diameter) size. I also assume that you want the "warm white" LED to simulate incandescent lamp headlights. Just go to eBay and search for "3mm warm white LED" and you'll find lots of choices. Here is one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/253322701558

Sure, that's fine, but if possible the slower traffic should move over to the right. Same with the highway I described in my post - during the rush hours all the lanes are full of cars and there is no way to use the left lane strictly for passing. But if the traffic is lighter, then common sense should prevail (especially since it is clearly posted what that line is for).

Mine works like that too. I was just trying to use the "add link" button over the text box. All is well. Thanks Bill!

Very nice! Were the decals printed on clear decal film, or on white film with printed black background?

I'm a member of a local model train club (NE NTRAK). It is a modular club where members build and own modular pieces of the layout (modules). We set them up into a layout at the local train shows. The scenes depicted on those modules vary between super-realistic to very whimsical, and we see our share of those grumpy rivet-counters dissing the whimsical ones. Whatever . . . we have fun and don't care what they think. At most of the shows we display there is also a LEGO model train layout which to me is super impressive. I bet that if I hung around it long enough I would hear someone complain about something on it. Some people are just never happy.

I just experienced the same behavior on my way to work tonight. It is super-annoying! at 8pm the traffic is not very heavy, so there is not reason to stay in the left lane. With 3 lanes everybody was going around them, but it still caused the annoyed drivers to make some dangerous maneuvers. And there are signs posted stating that the left lane is not a travel lane, but for passing only. That message is also often displayed on the overhead digital billboard signs. But no, they couldn't care less.

Millennial parents no doubt! While we're at it, everybody gets a trophy! Just so there is no doubt, I'm only semi-serious.

Let's see. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anwy2MPT5RE Ah, I know what I was doing wrong. I was using the "add link" button above the text window. Silly me. Makes sense now.

I see that done all the time, yet I haven't figured out hos to do it. I know how to include photos (either uploaded or linked) into my posts, and how to insert URL links. But videos have me stumped. I can insert the URL to a video (and it shows up as a clickable link), but I would like to have the video show up in the post. How do you all do it? I use a Seamonkey (flavor of Mozilla Firefox) browser and either MS Windows XP or 7.

And of course:

While there are several flavors out there, I prefer the original flavor.

If it is one of those electronic PWM dimmers then it is way overkill. No need - simple resistor will do the trick. If you want to have control of the brightness get a small trimmer potentiometer. I would get a 5000 ohm (5 k ohm) 1/2W rated and then use it instead of a fixed resistor. That will give you a good range of brightness adjustment. Something like this one: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cts-electrocomponents/201XR502B/201XR502B-ND/98337 But do whatever works for you.

Very nicely done model Al! I noticed the red-ended wiper blades before reading your later post. Nice touch! If that was my build, one thing I would do differently would be to skip the rear window defroster lines. They are just way too noticeable on the model. On a 1:1 scale car those are probably about 1/64" wide and usually dark rusty brown color. So to be in-scale (and barely noticeable as on a 1:1 car), those would have to be only 0.002" wide! That type of a detail is best to be left off on models.

Nice model! You can likely reduce brightness of those LEDs by installing additional resistor or resistors into the circuits. But I would have to see the entire circuit to offer any specific suggestions as to the resistor value. I guess that that splicing a 1000 ohm (1k ohm) resistor into one of the wires coming out of the battery would reduce the brightness by quite a bit. It will not cause any damage.

I use pins to positively locate parts during final assembly (when they parts are painted). I use brass rod (wire) in diameters ranging from 0.010" - 0.032" depending on the size of the parts. For items like side mirrors on the doors where the exact location is not critical, I simply drill into the base of the mirror (make the hole few thousands of an inch larger then the pin and glue the pin into it using CA glue. I use thin CA and have to insert the wire quickly (the glue sets fast). I also roll the wire with my finger few times over a piece of 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper before gluing it to roughen the surface of the pin. Then I eyeball the location on the door and drill the hole to accept the pinned item. For items such as headers attached to the cylinder head, or attaching cylinder head to the block, I simply hold the unpainted and aligned parts together, then drill right through both parts. That assures perfect alignment. I then glue the pin into the part that sits on the outside (like headers headers). The hole in the headers is so small that tiny bit of CA glue will fill it in. Then I paint the parts and the pins guarantee perfect alignment.

Thanks Darren! I actually wrote an article on my build (back in the '90s) but it never got published. One of these days I might revisit the subject and post the build details online.

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