peteski

Well done - I like it!

Cube seems to have been aped from the original Toyota bB (Scion xB in US), but even funkier looking with those rounded windows and asymmetrical styling. I own a 2006 xB and judging by how many I've seen on the streets, they sold better than the Cube. And xB is so darn cute! My xB was built in Japan and I think that all xBs were like that.

That's right, there is Harry's Hobbies too. I have never visited their shop, but they usually have a dealer table at my club's annual contest and I have bought things from them. Yes, nice people.

So, they don't use a clear top coat. But under the "chrome" is also a layer of clear lacquer (as a glossy base coat for the metalization) which Coke will not strip. Depending on how fastidious you are, you might want to strip that too, so you end up with bare plastic parts.

Colas contain phosphoric acid which is likely what dissolves the very thin layer of aluminum that gives the chrome-like finish. Colas can be used for lots of things (like removing rust). Just do a Google search for "uses for cola". Your method will likely not work on all "chrome" parts. Some of those parts trees are coated at the factory with a clear lacquer (to protect the fragile layer of aluminum). It is doubtful that the weak acid in Coke will attack the clear lacquer.

Cars are also made (mostly)from steel. And if they have plastic parts (like bumper covers), those are also much thicker than the steel body parts. Steel is much stronger and stiffer than let's say urethane plastic. If you wanted to have scale-thickness body panels in 1:25 scale, those would be around the thickness of heavy duty aluminum foil. Even if you could mold plastic that thin, it would have no strength. Some things just can't be scaled.

I enjoyed that story Joe!

Yes, the Boston shop was Eric Fuch's Hobby Shop. They had several satellite locations in the suburbs, and one in New Hampshire. All long gone. The spare Time Hobby Shop in Marlboro (or Marlborough) is one of only few left. And it is a good one. Highly recommended! It is chock full of all sorts of kits, paints, tools, and aftermarket stuff. Lots of unique items too. It is one of those shops that has very narrow isles because they have so much stock. It has to be experienced in person. Prices are pretty much MSRP, but some bargains can be found too. If you are a member of a model club, tell them at a checkout (and show them your club ID card if you have one) and they'll give you a discount. It is about 20 miles West of Boston, right on Route 20. Just do a Google search for "spare time hobby shop marlborough" and check out http://www.sparetimeshop.com/ The other one I frequent is Hobby Emporium in Tyngsboro (or Tyngsborough). Also very plentiful stock of all sorts of kits. This one has more widely spaced isles but still lots of goodies. Prices are also similar to Spare Time Shop and they will also give you discount if you are member of a model club. This one is about 35 miles northeast of Boston, Exit 36 of Route 3 North. Again, Google search for "hobby emporium tyngsborugh" and check out https://www.hobbyemporiumtyngsborough.com/ There is also Hobby Bunker in Malden. Much closer to Boston, but I have never been there. As I understand, it is geared mostly towards military and miniatures crowd. Google search for "hobby bunker malden" and visit https://www.hobbybunker.com/

To be fair, both scales mention 54mm figures. 1:35 8.709 mm The most popular scale for military vehicles and figures. Used heavily by Verlinden Productions. It was originally conceived by Tamiya for convenience of fitting motorised parts and batteries. Corresponds well with 54mm figures.

Here is a good scales reference: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_scale_model_sizes I have a series of Gunze Sangyo 1:32 scale model cars. And as the above link shows, there are lots of scales used for models (some more popular than others).

Sure, Art, what you wrote is absolutely true. I just bought the kit without realizing what the box contained. The box-top photo shows the real car. I am not trying to build the kit as it would have looked built box-stock in the '50's. I want to build a decent looking and more-accurate replica and I decided that it would take too much work to get the ex-Pyro kit to be presentable. My plan is to restore the Franklin Mint model. Much less work and better results.

I have never seen a water-based enamel paint in a spray can. But who knows . . . The word "acrylic" in no way should imply that a paint is water based. It is one of those fallacies propagated in the model-building world.

Some people are more anal fastidious than others. There is no point explaining to you all the nuances of why masking is better than scraping. It works for me, and I enjoy applying masking and not having to scrape.

Sorry for being pedantic, but a potentiometer or a "pot" (aka a variable/adjustable resistor) is the green cube-shaped thing at the end of the speed control knob. The entire circuit is a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) motor speed controller.

That was a great episode (but so are most of the TZ episodes). I would chalk this up to computer weirdness, rather than to paranormal stuff. I've seen enough crazy stuff on computers to not think anything eery is happening here.

I still have my Tyco TCR slotless race car set, similar to this:

The model exhibition and contest my club puts on every year has had top attendance the last few years. It is not an IPMS event. http://classicplastic.org/events.html

Corel Draw uses .CDR or .CMX as a native file format, but it can export in many formats.

I also deal with: 1:160 N scale model trains and vehicles 1:220 Z scale model trains and vehicles Then 1:43 to me is mainly automotive vehicle models (pre-built or kits, diecast metal or resin). The Monogram Ultimates is one of the very few injection-molded styrene models in this scale.

Um, well . . . I'm just speculating on the meaning anyway.

Maybe they mean "single component paint" as in "no hardener needed"?

The bids look legit to me. m***z(5935) snipped it and beat the maximum amount e***n(118) placed on it. If you click on "Show Automatic Bids", the bidding sequence becomes clearer. While it is a kit-bash of couple of models with some custom made parts, the engine is built box-stock and there is a prominent seam on the transmission. The BMF on the side windows is also a bit rough. Not something I would spend couple of grand on. But it is pretty, and someone out there obviously thought it was worth what he paid for it.

I've been watching one item for more than 3 years now. Yes, that long! It keeps getting relisted while identical items often sell for $15-$30. https://www.ebay.com/itm/291025513310 AMERICAN GRAFFITI 1978 FORD THUNDERBIRD 1:64 MotorMax VHTF Green _73600_MOMC NEW Couple of years (when there were couple of other identical models listed for fraction of the $130 this seller wants) I contacted the seller asking what makes their model worth $130. Never got a reply. Waiting for a sucker he is. I'm not the only one curious - there are currently 13 watchers.

Cat litter (clay) dissolves brake fluid? How can you dissolve something that is already liquid? Or are you dissolving cat litter?

I agree. It does look mean and like it means business but it is just too cartoonish. The body lines are too exaggerated. I prefer more elegant lines. Something that looks fast and still pleasing to the eye. Something like this car from the '60s. Heck I'll even take a Lambo Countach from the same era.