peteski

If tape (Scotch, or even masking tape) doesn't work you can try softening them with 91% rubbing alcohol, or one of the decal setting solutions, then gently scrape them off. But be careful as those liquids might affect the paint.

I mentioned that on the 1st page of this thread. First of all, 30AWG wire is 30AWG wire (the actual wire) and is always 0.010" in diameter. The overall diameter (with insulation) depends on the type and thickness of the insulation. The Kynar-insulated 30AWG wire's overall diameter is about 0.016" which to me is too thick for representing a factory-stock ignition wires in 1:24-25 scale models. But others aren'tas picky as I am. it is your model - do whatever you want.

With all those wonderful Internet-connected IoT devices you will also have IoT hackers doing all sorts of things to your precious thermostats, refrigerators, washing machines and toilets. Like turning on the cold-water bidet function when you least expected. All I know is that with all all these gadgets around us, we are in for one fun ride in the near future. I also get a kick of that find-my-phone app. When you lose your schmart-device, where do you run your app? In your head? You need another computing device with the access to the app.

My first impression is that it looks like Ford Mustang's little brother.

EEEEEWWWWWW! What was seen cannot be unseen! Thanks a lot Ace!

That's what I thought too.

Or wipe clean the lid and the lip of a can before closing. Takes few seconds and works great. I never store paints upside down. No matter how hard you shake it, some of the pigment ends up stuck to the can/lid/bottle neck/cap. It is really messy and if you clean it, you are removing pigment every time you open the bottle.

Nice! If you have a blacklight handy, that should make those parts glow really well.

Thanks for the explanation Bill! Brilliant (you are very fastidious too)! So it seems that most of the parts (down to the license plate) are resin-cast. Wow!

Thee are several different 3D printing technologies and materials. If you are talking about the FUD or FXD parts printed by Shapeways, they have lots of wax leftover from the printing process. I good soaking in Hexane (Bestine, a rubber cement thinner) or Naphtha (Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or VM&P Naphtha from a hardware store) will rinse the wax away. Certain areas of the printed part will turn white - that is normal. These parts will usually need some sanding to get rid of the "fuzzies" and some of the printing artifacts.

On a semi-related note, there is also this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_vehicle_warning_sounds Some of those sounds are designed to imitate IC engines.

My car is a 2006 Scion xB with 130k miles on it, and I still actively use a Win98SE computer at home. I could even dig up my 486DX2-66 PC with DOS 5.0 and Windows 3.1 installed. It probably still works. Same goes for my Sinclair ZX81 computer. That xB is my first ever new car purchase, and to me the newer cars are much better made than any older cars. I drove my share of 70's Camaros, Dusters, Pintos, Thunderbirds, Cadillacs, etc., and they were all much less reliable than my xB. Granted, I bought them all used, but even if I bought them new, I am convinced that they would be nowhere as probable as my xB has been so far. Even if they would be ok mechanically, their bodies would be rusted after 10 years of Northeast winters.

They are coming out with what you want. Just do a Google search for "sound system for electric cars". Here is an example:

If the car is orange the decal images will need a white undercoat. Without it the color images on your decal will be translucent and the orange background will make their colors look way off.

I was also way off. Like you I thought it was Easter European. To me it has body lines of one of the many reincarnations of a license-build or a copied Fiat. I'm glad others were able to find out what that "thing" was. Yuck!

Even ignoring the fact that it has metallic color, and even painted with a black Sharpie it will have non-realistic sheen to it, then like your pictures show, the way it curves doesn't look anything like ignition wire harness in a factory-stock car. You said it can be formed, but the Detail-Master wire is much easier to form. We all have our favorites. If I was worried about spending too much money on my modeling supplies, I would not be building models.

Yes I am, because the Kynar insulated 30AWG wire to me it doesn't look right in a model of a factory-stock car. Obviously YMMV.

Based on some visual queues I have a feeling I know what part of the world it is from, and if I'm right I don't want to make things easier for everybody. However I don't know the specific make. It sure does have an ugly nose!

These are sellouts because they are nice models, they are produced in limited quantities, and there are plenty of collectors out there with deep enough pockets to buy them. It is as simple as that.

That is a standard wire-wrapping wire. I used lots of it when prototyping circuit boards. I have oodles of it around my workshop, but I find it of limited use for 1:25 scale cars. While the 30AWG wire itself is 0.010" in diameter, the overall diameter (with insulation) is around 0.016" which is too thick for factory-stock ignition wire. It is acceptable for some heavy duty racing wires, but I don't build many of those models. Also isn't beading wire simply enameled wire? The enamel is translucent so the wire looks like it has metallic color (not a solid opaque silicone-like color). No go for me. insulated wire extracted from old electronic devices is a good idea, but again, too thick for ignition wire. But it makes for good hoses.

What impressed me (well, everything is impressive, but this just caught my eye) is the license plate with embossed numerals on it (just like the real plates are). How did you do that?

Yes, it is cheaper, but it is not fun using a small brush to coat a 9x11 sheet. Plus, does the cement self-levels or the brush creates uneven layers of glue? Spraying is much easier and produces an even surface. You don't need that expensive special sanding disc-adhesive variety - only the craft-type removable variety (from Michael's or Hobby Lobby).

I think that they are in the minority - the general population (and their offspring) seem to still be going in the wrong direction.

And what in the world makes you think that the next generation will be any smarter than this one? It seems like we are going on the opposite direction.

Looks good! I currently dabble in N scale and the amount of products available nowadays is mind boggling. Still not as much as in H0, but plenty. It isn't a "toy scale" anymore (as it was often called in the '70s).