peteski

It is nowhere near that bad. I also am into model railroad hobby and we photoetch detail parts or kits often. Even for one-off it is not that bad. Check out https://ppdltd.com/ that is who most use. The prices are there. If you provide etch-ready artwork you save bunch of money too. I have few projects planned - just haven't gotten to them yet. And normally you don't etch such large sheets. You design much smaller items then just run multiples. Basically like the MCG frets - those are just a single artwork etched in multiples. Heck, I have couple of unassembled sets of RMCoM dragster wheels - If I can find the time I can scan the original etchings (for size reference), redraw them in Corel Draw and create etch-ready artwork and have them made. Like I said, I just have to find some time for that. Also before I do that I would have to talk to Norm to see if he would restart the production of the resin parts and buy my etchings to make the sets complete.

Not only the model is nice - I like your display base. Well done!

Like you said: it is your model so you can do whatever you want with it. I was just looking for the back story. Makes sense. I like it!

Snow is just frozen water - it won't hurt your classic car, as long as it sits in your driveway. The road-salt is the rust-monster that will eat your precious toy.

Thanks! Once the body went over the chassis, the distributor is not all that visible. That photo also shows it magnified - in 1:43rd scale it is pretty tiny.

RMCoM already casts excellent-quality resin tires, rims, and hubs for those wheels. It appears that all they need to start selling these wheels again is the photoetched spoke inserts. It should not be very difficult to have those made in production quantity. No need to, so to speak, reinvent the wheel.

There is quite a difference between them. So which one more closely resemble the 1:1 car? Tamiya seems to have finer looking engraving, but that doesn't' guarantee accuracy.

The problem with this decal is that it goes onto a conical-shaped surface. If you make it a simple ring-shape it will wrinkle when applied. It really needs to be made in a shape of an open circle taking into consideration the conical surface of the air cleaner. Some geometric calculations will be needed to come up with the correct shape for the decal.

Thanks!

Neah - just a micro-rant.

My post about not trimming quoted contents *WAS* the rant. Thanks for doing what you did. The world is a happy place again!

Yeah, looks good and nicely weathered too!

Tanks, I mean "thanks"! I did find few images similar to yours like this one: But 'm still curious about your choice of the lettering? I would have expected Cycilic characters like on the picture above. Or did the Russkis donate one of those tanks to U.S. and it ended up on the Aberdeen Proving grounds?

The question I have is that since those old threads are buried pages and pages deep in the forum, how exactly do people find them, fish them out , and reply to them? Maybe Shaun could explain how he stumbled upon that old thread? I participate in another forum. If I try to reply to an old thread (few moths old), when I bring up the reply screen I see a warning pop up informing me that this thread is old and that I might want to consider starting a new thread. But if I ignore the warning it will allow me to reply anyway.

Sorry for the rant but I think it is really silly and awkward when people quite an entire lengthy post (with photos) just to say "thank you". Trimming the quoted message makes the thread easier to read (and less scrolling through duplicate info).

If in both examples the part was cut from the same exact spot on the tree than I agree that it might be more than just a random flaw caught by quality inspector.

Very well done! Question: Are the red taillight lenses transparent red plastic or red paint?

I guess you are not going to answer my questions?

Cool! Sort of reminds me a bit of the Eggplanes (by Hasegawa)

Hey Joe, good to have you back on the forum. I read the re-post and found it interesting. This is my first visit of the forum since last Thursday morning so you never even gave me a chance to read your original post. There are members that only visit once a week or even less frequently, but who might find your story interesting. I agree with others that you did an early withdrawal. You need to give a story like at least a day or two (or in my case, several days) to get some comments.

Electic cars are quick off the line because electric motors (unlike internal-combustion engines) produce maximum torque at stall. Which is where you are when stopped.

And a Ford 289 engine in a 1:43 scale AC Cobra. The distributor is a bit clunky looking (molded with the intake manifold) - I should have reshaped it, but it is what it is.

How about an alternate scenario? Just your parts tree had a partially molded or malformed part. Or there was some nasty schmutz in the plating which was caught by the quality control inspector. They just replaced the bad part by including one from a spare parts tree.

Eh, why not just ask Alexa? She knows *EVERYTHING*!

Well, it is solvent based, but the solvent is H2O (water). Because the solvent (water) evaporates from it during the drying/hardening process, I would expect shrinkage. The 2-part putties which harden by a chemical reaction between the 2-parts are not solvent based and are non-shrinking.