peteski

These are sellouts because they are nice models, they are produced in limited quantities, and there are plenty of collectors out there with deep enough pockets to buy them. It is as simple as that.

That is a standard wire-wrapping wire. I used lots of it when prototyping circuit boards. I have oodles of it around my workshop, but I find it of limited use for 1:25 scale cars. While the 30AWG wire itself is 0.010" in diameter, the overall diameter (with insulation) is around 0.016" which is too thick for factory-stock ignition wire. It is acceptable for some heavy duty racing wires, but I don't build many of those models. Also isn't beading wire simply enameled wire? The enamel is translucent so the wire looks like it has metallic color (not a solid opaque silicone-like color). No go for me. insulated wire extracted from old electronic devices is a good idea, but again, too thick for ignition wire. But it makes for good hoses.

What impressed me (well, everything is impressive, but this just caught my eye) is the license plate with embossed numerals on it (just like the real plates are). How did you do that?

Yes, it is cheaper, but it is not fun using a small brush to coat a 9x11 sheet. Plus, does the cement self-levels or the brush creates uneven layers of glue? Spraying is much easier and produces an even surface. You don't need that expensive special sanding disc-adhesive variety - only the craft-type removable variety (from Michael's or Hobby Lobby).

I think that they are in the minority - the general population (and their offspring) seem to still be going in the wrong direction.

And what in the world makes you think that the next generation will be any smarter than this one? It seems like we are going on the opposite direction.

Looks good! I currently dabble in N scale and the amount of products available nowadays is mind boggling. Still not as much as in H0, but plenty. It isn't a "toy scale" anymore (as it was often called in the '70s).

Detail Master And Pro-tech are my go-to places for spark-plug wire. Expensive, but the diameter seems in-scale and since it is a real insulated wire, it nicely retains its shape.

How about using spray adhesive? I think 3M makes removable spray adhesive. Easy to apply to large areas, and will spray on nice and even.

Looks like he made it all himself. Welded some nuts to a bent steel rod. Pretty clever (if you have welding equipment handy).

On the model railroad forum I frequent, some member use them for cutting out model building kits from thin sheet styrene. They even use the cutter to engrave brick pattern.

That sounds like the weather report for the Boston area. But we have over a foot of snow on the ground - one day of 50 degree weather will not melt all that snow. It will barely put a dent in it.

Ordering directly from BMF pretty much guarantees that the foil and decal paper are fresh (haven't been sitting in a warehouse for 5 years). So even if the price is a bit higher, it IMO is worth it. I didn't even realize that BMF offers plastic polish. I use NOVUS

LOL, I still wonder how people find and dig up those ancient threads. I don't look past the 2nd page of posts unless I'm doing a search for something specific.

I was replying to randyc's post above mine. He just said nail polish remover without clarification of the type.

I'm afraid that they are serious. We also have non-believers that humans landed on the moon, or even traveled beyond the Van Allen belt.

That explains the ever growing Flat Earth Society.

Looks hand-made and cute as a button!

I also have that orange Matchbox model (and have owned it since the '70s). It looks nothing like the real car. I always thought that the Matchbox model was cool looking but odd. Now that I saw a photo of the real car I can say that it is sleek and beautiful (but the engine is a bit of an overkill).

Um, are you sure you mixed (shook) the paint in the spray can really well before decanting? Sounds like you left the "thick stuff" (the pigment and resin) still in the spray can, so what you have is just the solvent tinted with the paint's color.

Nail polish remover is acetone with fragrance. Unless you are using a non-acetone remover. So nail polish remover or acetone do not attack (or dull) the base paint itself? Wow!

If these are printed on Alps printer, if you used metallic silver ink undercoat (instead of white) for the taillights and marker lights, that would give them a nice metallic color (imitating the real lenses). But some Alps printers have problem printing any color over metallic, so that might not work.

Yeah, I'm not sure how members suddenly discover old threads and reply to them. Nothing wrong with that - I'm just wondering . . . I usually don't look past the new messages (less than 1 week old).

That's a great news! The new etchings look a lot better than the original ones! Nice Job Tim!

I don't know what it is, but it sure is one gorgeous looking vehicle! Sexy!