peteski

Does that really matter? The point being made is that It's a large cruise ship sinking.

Any news about EBBRO 1/24 Citroen DS21?

Yes, in 0n30, that is tiny. I model in N scale (1:160), which is much smaller than 0, but to get really really tiny, the smallest operating model railroad scale is "T" (not to be confused with TT). It is 1:450.

These are fantasy (not functional, or logically designed) vehicles.

Interesting model and creative use of generic household items - I like it!

That's exactly what I do. My neighbor (RIP) made an apron for me (sewing was her hobby) and I had her put a strip of Velcro on the bottom edge. The mating Velcro strip is stuck under the bench top. I put the apron on, sit down and reach under the workbench to attach the apron to the Velcro. Even if I accidentally get up, the Velcro releases safely. It is an age-old watchmaker's trick. It works great (if I don't forget to wear it)!

Same here - dust in the "chrome". Of course I was offered a free re-plating, but I wasn't about to try stripping the inferior finish on many delicate parts. Too much hassle. I'm not going back.

Is this stuff made in China?

Well, things aren't that simple. Alps Electric is a large Japanese company producing electronic components. Alps MicroDry thermal-transfer printing technology was used and/or licensed by several companies. But AFAIK Alps was the only company making the hardware (print heads, etc.). In the '90s Alps chose to enter the consumer printer market by producing a line of computer printers. The MD series of printers (MD stands for MicroDry). They produced the MD2000 series first, followed by the MD1000 series (yes out of sequence numbering), then the last MD printers were the MD5000 series. These consumer printers were not a commercial success. While the print quality was excellent, and the inks were color-fast and waterproof, the printers were complicated and expensive, and the cost of consumables was also fairly high. They were ale extremely slow compared to ink jet and laser printers. Those quickly became the mainstream consumer printers with Alps falling behind. But Alps MD printers had some unusual and unique capabilities (like being able to retain the paper inside printer and printing multiple passes in perfect registration (the ability to layer inks), and of course the ability to pint white and metallic colors. Because of those capabilities and the waterproof ink, they found a niche market with modelers and small cottage industry producers of custom water-slide decals. As I mentioned other companies either re-badger Alps rinters or utilized print heads for their own brand printers. Rebadged Alps printers were Citizen Printivas (MD2000 series), Powis Parker (DP5000 series), and OKI DP series (MD500 series). Alps also manufactured a higher-end printer which was sold as OKI DP7000 and also Kodak First Check. Then in the larger printer formats, Roland DG utilized Alps technology in a series of their plotter/cutter printers. All the above printers are discontinued and out of production. OKI and few others have developed color laser printers which use white toner, so they are capable of printing white ink. But compared to the capabilities of Alps MD printers, they have limitations and they are much more expensive (both the hardware and consumables). That technology is not related to the Alps MicroDry technology.

Are there any photos on the box sides showing that area? I'm not an expert but it seems to me that the mounts on the outboard motor's halves have to be glued into slots in parts #10. Just like the dashed-line shows. On a real boat those areas would likely be hinged so the motor can tilt. Then the backs of parts #10 woudl be glued to the boats stern (rear), again as shown on the diagram.

I got a cheap meat thermometer I stick through one of the slots in my dehydrator's cover. Mine also has no adjustable temperature but it can be adjusted by opening or closing the slots on the top and bottom of it. I run mine between 110-120 deg. F

So, if he decides to build his kit, he can buy himself a very decent $10 set of (correct?) wheels and tires. What a bargain! I would pay $10 just for those tires.

As I understand, they did all the vacuum metalizing "plating" for Modelhaus. I am also less than happy with Chrometech USA and am planninng to one of the other companies for my next project.

Which is it? Acrylic or Polyester? Those are distinctively different types of resins. Acrylic is not Polyester, and vice versa.

Yes, high-impact-polystyrene is stronger and less brittle than plain polystyrene. ABS is just another type of polystyrene Coplymer. A good info on polystyrene is at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_impact_polystyrene Here is a quote Pure polystyrene is brittle, but hard enough that a fairly high-performance product can be made by giving it some of the properties of a stretchier material, such as polybutadiene rubber. The two such materials can never normally be mixed because of the small mixing entropy of polymers (see Flory-Huggins solution theory), but if polybutadiene is added during polymerisation it can become chemically bonded to the polystyrene, forming a graft copolymer,[citation needed] which helps to incorporate normal polybutadiene into the final mix, resulting in high-impact polystyrene or HIPS, often called "high-impact plastic" in advertisements. One commercial name for HIPS is Bextrene. Common applications of HIPS include toys and product casings. HIPS is usually injection molded in production.

I was browsing through eBay when I accidentally ran into a kit from a series from which I, as a kid, I built one kit I totally forgot about it until I saw that eBay listing. It sure brought back some memories. The one I built was not any of the Planet of the Apes movie, but the WW I dogfight with the Red Baron plane. The original Toys R Us price: $2.91! Then the other price tag on the box top shows $5.00. Wow! Anybody else built any of these kits?

The straight lines and sharp angles of the hood and roof seriously clash with the swoopy curved fenders and doors. Yuck!

1/8" shank tungsten carbide drills Ace showed are PC board drill bits (used to drill holes in electronic circuit boards). They are very sharp (have split point) and will easily drill through stainless steel. But they are very fragile and shatter easily. Best way to drill through thin material is to sandwich it tightly between 2 thicker materials (like wood or aluminum). Otherwise, as you drill through the thin metal sheet, it will likely climb up the drill flutes and shatter the bit.

Cobra!? Looks more like a Zebra!

I purchase 99% Isopropanol (another name for Isopropyl Alcohol) in my local Tru-Value hardware store, in a gallon size tin can. It is located in the paint thinners section of the store. If they don't have it in stock, they can special-order it for you. Another name is 99IPA. That gives it that 8% extra kick. I just did a google search for 99ipa and it seems to be available from other sources too. And for some educational value, visit https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isopropyl_alcohol

The issue here is that flammable chemicals are usually forbidden on airplanes (for what I think are obvious reasons). But maybe if the shipping company owns their own transport airplanes, they make their own rules.

Thanks. I should add that to the acronym "dictionary" thread in the General section.

The show is coming up this weekend - bring your models and enjoy the show!

The way I understand his problem is the lack of ink opacity in decals printed on clear-film, when applied to a non-white surface. And of course printed on white, the colors are ok, but the white film is visible if not trimmed right to the image.

I'm surprised that flammable materials (paint) was shipped via international airmail. Post office makes a big deal about shipping flammable materials, even domestically.