peteski

Does anybody know why he stopped posting and even visiting the forum? I checked his profile and his last post was on Oct. 21, 2017, and he last visited here on April 4, 2018. I miss his presence. He is an excellent large-scale modeler and I thoroughly enjoyed following his superb Pocher Rolls Royce build.

Nice! I like white cars but the color you chose is also very pretty.

WOW!

I hope that you are using some sort of magnifying device when building this tiny model! I do quite a bit of miniature modeling and I couldn't work without my Optivisor (with a #7 lens plate) and a stereo-microscope for the really tiny stuff.

Funny - what was old is new again. Push-button shifting was all the rage in the mid-20th Century. SOme cars even hat the buttons in the center of the steering wheel. Forget the floor-mounted automatic transmission shifter. Many cars nowadays have those fancy paddle-shifters, for sifting your auto-transmission without taking your hands off the wheels. Those are included even in SUVs, for the Formula-1 wannabes.

Looks like just another repackaged CA glue (aka cyanoacrylate, or super-glue). Nothing magical about it. There are many similar adhesives available in hobby shops and hardware stores.

I fairly recent one was that Pontiac Vibe was a Toyota Matrix or vice-versa. Seems to me that GM and Toyota make strange bedfellows.

That is why I will never use it as a CA glue (super-glue) accelerator. If some of it remains free of the CA glue within the joint and remains open to the ambient air, it can start absorbing water from the air and leaching out of the joint. I know it is off-topic here, but I had to mention it.

Sounds like a plan! I hope that you'll photos of the completed model.

. . . you should enjoy this video. Watch the entire video - it is worth it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjvzCTqkBDQ

I had the pleasure of attending the Shizuoka Hobby Show in 2005 and I can say that it was an amazing experience. They even had a military jets flyover! Not something you see during other hobby shows.

But "fully detailed" to me means that it is an exact replica of the 1:1 engine. So it would have brackets for alternator, AC compressor, power-steering pump, etc., oil and transmission dipsticks, etc. Most modelers do not include all those details in their miniature plumbed engines. Like others said, "plumbed" means it has some hoses and tubing/pipes modeled. And as a side note, when you configure an Ethernet interface on a computer, you are also "plumbing" it. At least in technical lingo.

Yes, in that scenario the broken bit will be stuck (unless you can drill from the other side, and push the broken bit out from that side).

Yes, as I mentioned when I first recommend the Tungsten Carbide bits that they are very fragile. I also use them in a precision drill press, but I often use them in a pin vise and drill by hand (when I drill plastic). Yes, I sometimes break them (especially the 77 and smaller sizes), but that is why I buy lots of spares. I can find them affordable enough that I can deal with some breakage.

Good to know - thanks! And yes, it is " Wizard of O's"

It is sad, but nature is a force beyond our control.

Not your Jeep. It looks like a fun ride to me!

I guess nobody told her about "pink slime" or "lips & a$$holes". Don't get me wrong - I like wieners too! I don't care what they're made of.

That is perfect! Thanks a bunch Brad!

I found that sentence very amusing - thanks for the chuckle! I bet that by now you didn't think anybody would notice it.

Replicas and Miniatures Company of Maryland used to sell a wide selection of photoetched rings. They were called Wizard-Os. But I think their supplier went out of business and they don't carry those anymore.

Those are the Tungsten Carbide PC Board drills I mentioned. I love them and because they are so brittle, I have lots of spares!

Similar thing happened with automotive gauges in the dash. Originally they were all mechanical/electrical movements with dials and pointers. Then the digital craze hit in the early '80s and gauges were replaced by numeric or alphanumeric digital readouts. But those were difficult to decipher while driving a car. Couldn't just take a quick glance (like you do at a gauge with a dial and pointer). Your brain has to work harder deciphering and making sense of a numeric value. So the digital readouts were supplemented or replaced by digitally-controlled bar-graph displays. Those were easier to read out quickly. But then the automotive designers came around the complete circle, and most cars nowadays have analog-looking gauges (at least for most of the important basic parameters). Those gauges have dials and pointers like the original old-style gauges, but behind the scenes, they are driven by the on-board computers. They have electric movements, even if they look analog. Looks like you took the same road: dial/digital-readout/dial. I agree that choosing a pressure gauge where the full reading is close to the maximum pressure you'll be using increases the accuracy of the readout.

Thanks for the virtual trip on the famous Coney Island! Hey, is Asbury Park in NJ still around, or did it get washed away in that great hurricane few years back?

When my GF sees tarted-up examples of vehicles like that she says "sorry about your peni$"! Like you said, they are attention-cravers.