peteski

If 2mm width would work (I know that is wider than 1/64") then you could try Tamiya Masking Tape for Curves

It does have a cute, tight butt!

My favorite part of building a kit is when all the finished/painted sub-assemblies are put together. Suddenly from bunch of parts you have a model. As for the fun ending when the model is finished, that is not the case for me. I often look over my finished models. I pick them up and examine them closely. I enjoy seeing them finished, and also in my mind I can easily bring back the memories of when I was building it, what were the fun parts of the build and which ones were frustrating. I can do this many times and I never get bored looking at my finished models. But I also don't look at my finished models often - only once in a while I pick up a model, enjoy its finished appearance and recall the time I was building it.

I think I heard on the news that she was somehow related to Kardashians. Zsa Zsa was also probably the first celebrity which was famous just for being famous.

And was less bitchy/had a nicer personality

Tamiya extra thin liquid cement is mostly (or all) acetone. You can get acetone in large containers (like quart or gallon) in a hardware store. Much cheaper than a tiny bottle. Most brands and types hobby liquid cements (sold in small bottles) use solvents which can be purchased much, much cheaper in larger quantities at a hardware store.

They do. In the past I received mailings right from RoG, but last few times even though I requested the parts directly from RoG, they sent them to Revell USA and then the part (in original packaging with German labels) was then mailed from Revell USA to my address. At least that is how things were about a year ago.

The less educated people are, the easier they can be controlled and the more gullible they will be. Today's technology (the Internet and all those "smart" devices everyone seems to be glued to) seem to make many people dumber too. You don't have to learn anything because you can just "Google" it. If course this is a generalization, but it is also true for many people.

I used to see a lot of this in the 80s and 90s on American-made cars (in Northeast USA), but it is probably not region-specific. The story I've heard was that then the car manufacturers started using the environmentally-friendly paints and clears, they weren't thoroughly tested and developed the adhesion problem.

I would use Tamiya fine white primer (no grays) to maximize the brilliance of the white top coat.

Another vote for pinning (not just mirrors). I pin and drill usually before painting the body before painting - that way I have a positive location for the piece to be pinned without having to handle the painted body too much.

Scratchbuilt? Wow! I'm speechless. I just glue together pieces made by some manufacturers. If you took some photos of it in a natural outdoor environment (and take them from carefully chosen angles), it could easily pass for the 1:1 car! How did you make the wheels and tires?

Those are pretty much the rules at our club's contest. I think the only other thing we allow is removal of extra molded-on details which are not present on the 1:1 vehicle.

I had all the problems I mentioned by just shipping two 1oz. Alclad II bottles. Go figure...

Hmm... Don't MCW paints contain ingredients which are considered flammable/hazardous? As I understand 1st class mail is Air Mail. But flammable/hazardous contents is banned from being shipped by air. How do I know? Because I had the hardest time shipping couple of small bottles of Alclad paints back to the manufacturer (and that was within USA). They ended up being shipped by ground service wit all sort s of warning labels on them! I imagine the same rules apply to international shipments. Unless you lie about the contents of the package then you will most likely not able to ship these 1st class International mail.

I have sprayed aerosol paint and airbrushed without using a spray booth with exhaust fan, but I always had open windows for some cross ventilation. An option would be to paint your models outdoors. Many modelers do just that. I also think that a window that is painted shut should not be an excuse not to ventilate your workshop (even if you don't install a spray booth). You should be able to get the window unstuck and then at least put a fan in it to move the air in the room. I have opened stuck windows and in my experience the paint sealing the window is neat the surface and can be broken by wedging an putty knife in where the gap between the window and the casing should be. Do this repeatedly and eventually you'll be able to open the window.

How did the cornerof the concrete dock get chipped with the metal post protecting that area? Or was the post added after the accident to prevent further damage? Will you add a handrail on the wall so the person climbing the steps will have something to hold onto? The realism of your diorama is amazing. The way you take the photos also makes it look like the 1:1 scale scene!

I prefer all the clear lenses (headlights/turn signals, etc.) to be separate clear pieces, but I guess for a low-volume production run molded-with-the-grill would be acceptable. How much experience do you have producing injection-molded styrene kits? While I don't have experience myself I have seen knowledgeable people describe the process. There are things like shrinkage of the plastic to consider (so the parts still fit after molding) and things like draft angles. it is part science and part art/experience. Or are all those things will be addressed by the mold-maker?

I don't think this is related to the slowness, but I also noticed the missing UNREAD labels and found a solution here

Wow! They got a license to produce genuine Coca-Cola decals. Nowadays more and more companies don't bother with the licensing - they just issue generic decals. What is cool to see is that with these retro-kits and retro-packaging the model companies are obviously going after the old-coots who are still building models. But they will also cost more than the original $2!

Well, the government crafted a solution, just for people like you. http://www.theverge.com/2016/11/16/13651106/electric-car-noise-nhtsa-rule-blind-pedestrian-safety

Nope - not a Juke! It sure is homely though, just like the Juke.

Shipping flammable chemicals is difficult even within USA and probably even harder internationally. Often those chemicals cannot be shipped by airplane (which is how most international shipping takes place). There are all sorts of regulations to follow and postal forms to fill out. If I had a small business I would also be very hesitant to ship this type of product internationally.

I agree with others - the realism of your modeling is amazing. The closeup photos could easily be mistaken for photos of the 1:1 scale loading dock. Very clever use of the foamcore board to represent concrete. And the coloring looks very realistic. Very impressive! If I was building this model, I would add working lights too. But that is me - I like light things up!