peteski

Yes, the forum does seem to be much more responsive. Thanks !

For that reason I add one inch to the tire diameter to get an approximate wheel fact rim diameter (since that is what is used on a model). So to me a a 1:1 17" wheel will be 18 inches in diameter.

For laughs, watch these: Someone created bots to keep telemarketers occupied as long as possible.

Um, for how much longer? What if you don't use those browsers?

I have been involved with computers since the early '80s We used 300MB washing-machine-size CDC hard drives for the CAD/CAM systems we were making. Had my first personal PC in the early '90s. I bought 130MB hard drive for it and I thought that I would never fill it up. Now I work with iSCSI storage arrays which have *HUGE* capacities. 57GB seemed huge just few years back, but now you can pick up a 3.5" 8TB hard drive for less than $250. Compared to that single 3.5" 8TB drive, 57GB seems insignificant. But I also understand that it is still a pain to manage a forum like this and make backups, etc. Thanks for your efforts!

Just pointed my camera towards the handset and snapped the photo. CallerID is easily spoofed. One spammer actually called me showing my own name and phone number. How could I be calling myself? But maybe you are right about the scam thing. Reading through https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caller_ID shows that "The calling party name is added by the consumer's terminating central office if the consumer has subscribed to that service. Calling name delivery is not automatic."

I hope that the button which allows for editing HTML source in the message will reappear.

You are lucky that the part was magnetic! When you lose brass or nickel-silver parts the magnet doesn't help. Actually most photo etched parts I work with are non-magnetic. Even the stainless steel parts are usually only slightly magnetic. That is when you have to get the vacuum cleaner and a some pantyhose out.

This is what my phone's CallerID showed for a call yesterday. They are getting very creative - maybe they are hoping someone will get curious what that is all about and pick up the phone?

If you do, I'll be in a corner of the hall taking model photos - come by and say "Hi".

I love the spotted seat covers. Mooooo!

Blue doesn't do much for me. I prefer my Panteras in bright orange or yellow.

Another easy one for me. :-)

OMG! Those are Harry's BEST models! I saw at least couple of 1:8 scale (very large) Pocher models! I wish I had room for some of this. Tresure trove of beautiful models.

Our 25th contest will take place on October 8th at the Elk's Hall in Lawrence, MA. Contest flyer is available at http://classicplastic.org/CPMC-flyer-2017.pdf and the model entry form is available at http://classicplastic.org/cpmc-entry-form.pdf Come, bring lots of models, and help us celebrate 25 years of Classic Plastic model contests.

Thanks! The threaded bolt works, but in my example I used thick enough wire that I wrapped each turn tightly touching the previous turn. It sort of looked like one of the thick guitar strings before I dipped it in the Plasti-Dip.

That actually might be eBay's fault. There seems to be some settings that the seller is unaware which makes eBay reject requests for combined shipping. That happened to me few times. Each time I contacted seller through one of the listings (after a rejected "request total") and the sellers apologized and sent me a combined-shipping invoices. But I also agree on your other point that the smarter the phones are getting, the dumber their average users seem to become.

It is not legal, but what can you do about it? The callerID they use is spoofed so how will you report them to whatever authorities are in charge of the Do Not Call list. Are you are going to ask them for their real company name, the salesperson's name and their address and real phone number?! We're screwed!

If there is a problem, you guys should be posting this in another section of this forum. I would post complaints in How to use the forum section.

Even is you got the polystyrene melted, it would still be a consistency of molasses. Not something that will easily flow into a mold. That is why injection molding uses very high pressure to fill the molds for making model kits. For home-brew molding you need water-thin resin which will flow easily into a mold.

I guess we got a bit nostalgic while discussing another toy store declaring bankruptcy. We had K-B Toys stores in New England area too. They are all gone now (obviously).

Eh, just build it! You got it for a really good price and you are a model builder, aren't you? The only problem you might have is where to display it after it is finished - it is a large model!

I had a similar problem on my 1:43 289 Cobra. I made mine by wrapping a bare copper wire over a brass rod. I then removed the "spring" off the rod ( I had to loosen the coils slightly). Then I dipped the "spring" into a thinned black Plasti-Dip liquid (the stuff used to dip tool handles). It took some experimenting with how much to thin the plastic dip so it works just right. I let it dry and dipped it again, probably for the total of 3 times to build up the thickness. That resulted in a nice flexible ducting. It is fairly small diameter (remember, this is 1:43 scale).

Oh man, that brings back some memories! I built one back in the '80s. I even installed light bulbs in the headlights. That was a nice looking model! The black plastic was so shiny and flawless that I didn't even paint it. Just applied the decals (just like on the real car). But is was a very large model - I tossed it when I moved in early '90s. I wish I had it now (the kit or the 1:1 car).