peteski

That is an unusual (satin metallic) color. I wonder if adding bit of silver paint to the brass/gold paint would give the right look? That is if you airbrushing them of course. Do a spoon test before painting the wheels.

If you really want an impressive model you can construct hinges which will work like the ones on the real car (where the front edge of the door swings to the inside of the fender, not like a typical die-cast or Hot-Wheels model where the door swings out from the fender. Just observe how the hinge of your 1:1 car is built and make a miniature version. You might have to thin the fender at the door opening to allow the door to swing in.

From my experience heat accelerates both, drying and hardening (oxidizing) of the enamels. That is why I use the dehydrator to speed things up.

Yes, ink-jet ink in consumer-grade printers is water-soluble. Water washes it away. Alps ink or laser printer toner do not have that problem - they are water-resistant.

The P1800 is a really good looking car. Then there was the other "Saint" who drove a white Jag.

Another vote for Future (Pledge Multi-surface ... blah blah, blah, whatever they call it now). Alclad also sells a water-base clear for their mirror-finish paints. It is white in a liquid state but dries clear. Either of these should not change the sheen of your metallic paint. Those high-shine metallic paints have thin flat metallic particles with very shiny surface (like microscopic mirrors). When they are applied over glossy surface, the metallic particles lay down flat and align with each other as the paint dries, creating a large mirror-like surface. If a solvent-based clear coat is applied over those paints, the solvent partially softens the base layer - that messes up the alignment of the metal particles. When they are no longer in alignment, the mirror effect disappears and they look like any other metallic paint.

The Pledge stuff (formerly known as Future) Is a water-based acrylic coating which should be pretty much safe to use over any type of lacquer or enamel. I agree with others that the problem was probably caused by the color coat still out-gassing under the layer of Pledge. Drying painted parts in a food dehydrator for few days should fully cure enamel paints.

BMF decal paper for laser printers has a glossy clear film. I have never encountered flat-finish decal paper for laser printers. But it might be possible that the ink jet paper has a different sheen as the clear film has an additional ink-absorbing coating which could have satin finish.

Door handles look very familiar but I'm feeling too lazy to look up the specific year.

That is basically how I do it, except I use plain aluminum foil.

My go-to decal paper (I use it with Alps printer) is from Bare-Metal Foil (yes the BMF people). I use the laser paper version - have never tried the ink-jet version of the paper so I can't comment on that.

With dehydrators you have control of the temperature and it is a pretty much dust-free enclosure. Leaving your car outside - not so much. I live in New England where we have cold and humidity - dehydrator comes in really handy. But I can see one being used in warm and dry climate too. It does speed up the paint drying time, but I also use it to accelerate hardening of urethane or epoxy resins, RTV and whatever else kicks over faster when heated.

Czasem polak polakowi pomaga.

Yes, Pro Tech braided line has a more realistic weave than the Detail master. He supposedly had it custom made to his specs (instead of just using electrical shielded cable used by Detail master).

The foils you mentioned are thicker and stiffer than the original or new chrome. So they are bit more stubborn and don't confirm to the surface as well. The gold and black can be rubbed off if burnished too vigorously. I prefer masking and black paint rather than black foil. I only used gold for small items like emblems.

Yeah, that is an interesting diorama. Funny, no matter what type of government is governing a country (Communist or Democratic), there are always problems abound. There is no perfect solution. I'm not trying to start a political discussion here - just stating the obvious. That translation is pretty good, but "non-business" should read "generic" or "non-branded" (as in the manufacturer of the other models in the diorama).

Neoprene rubber is actually type of synthetic rubber which is very resistant to degradation. Quoting https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neoprene : Neoprene resists degradation more than natural or synthetic rubber. This relative inertness makes it well suited for demanding applications such as gaskets, hoses, and corrosion-resistant coatings.[1] It can be used as a base for adhesives, noise isolation in power transformer installations, and as padding in external metal cases to protect the contents while allowing a snug fit. It resists burning better than exclusively hydrocarbon based rubbers,[8] resulting in its appearance in weather stripping for fire doors and in combat related attire such as gloves and face masks. Because of its tolerance of extreme conditions, neoprene is used to line landfills. Neoprene's burn point is around 260°C (500°F).[9] I suspect that those rubber tires popular with Japanese kit manufacturers are some sort of natural rubber (similar to what is used on 1:1 tires which also crack with age). As far as the vinyl tires melting styrene goes, it is not PVC (momomer) that is softening the polystyrene. Pure PVC is naturally rigid (like PVC sewer and water pipes). It is made soft by addition of plasticizers. In some instances (poor compatibility or inferior material quality perhaps?) the plasticizers leaches out of the PVC tire and ends up softening the polystyrene parts of the model. Here is some info on plasticizers from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_chloride Phthalate plasticizersMost vinyl products contain plasticizers which dramatically improve their performance characteristic. The most common plasticizers are derivatives of phthalic acid. The materials are selected on their compatibility with the polymer, low volatility levels, and cost. These materials are usually oily colourless substances that mix well with the PVC particles.

I had Centerlines on my '76 Camaro (in the '80s). I still have them in the basement. I always liked their clean brushed-aluminum look. They are made of front and back halves riveted together using stainless steel rivets. The halves are sealed by a thick bead of clear silicone. So that is how they were made (at least in the '80s when I bought them).

Sweet!

Do whatever you like and build whichever kit you want. It is your model and who cares if others don't like it or that it is not perfectly accurate. Or better yet, get the Fujimi kit and build them all. Then show them as a collection showing difference between all those models. That would make an interesting display (and you have 4 times the fun building them).

Same here - happy PayPal user since early 2000s. If this is not an eBay transaction then I think it is up to the seller to provide tracking numbers, etc. PayPal is just used for the monetary transaction. I buy and sell items from and to people I know from online forums and I have not been burned yet. But I have known those people for years and from what they post and how they act I can tell they are honest. I have not done any transactions with people I do not have any history about. You at least probably shouldn't use a "friends and family" money transfer directly from your bank account. It would be safer to use a credit card transfer (and pay the fees). That way you will at least have a credit card protection if something goes wrong. But before you send any money, work out all the details (like what shipping option they will use and whether there will be tracking) with the seller.

Yes, I experience the delay every time I click on anything on this site. Sometimes for 20 seconds or more. I learned to live with it.

You could do reverse masking: Paint the transmission area of the chassis silver first, mask the transmission, then paint the rest of the chassis whatever color it needs to be.

It is there again and it works! THANKS!

I just posted something and wanted to correct/add somethgin to the post but the "edit" link is gone. We can't edit our posts anymore? EDIT: Yes, it works again!