peteski

Thanks!

Neah - just a micro-rant.

My post about not trimming quoted contents *WAS* the rant. Thanks for doing what you did. The world is a happy place again!

Yeah, looks good and nicely weathered too!

Tanks, I mean "thanks"! I did find few images similar to yours like this one: But 'm still curious about your choice of the lettering? I would have expected Cycilic characters like on the picture above. Or did the Russkis donate one of those tanks to U.S. and it ended up on the Aberdeen Proving grounds?

The question I have is that since those old threads are buried pages and pages deep in the forum, how exactly do people find them, fish them out , and reply to them? Maybe Shaun could explain how he stumbled upon that old thread? I participate in another forum. If I try to reply to an old thread (few moths old), when I bring up the reply screen I see a warning pop up informing me that this thread is old and that I might want to consider starting a new thread. But if I ignore the warning it will allow me to reply anyway.

Sorry for the rant but I think it is really silly and awkward when people quite an entire lengthy post (with photos) just to say "thank you". Trimming the quoted message makes the thread easier to read (and less scrolling through duplicate info).

If in both examples the part was cut from the same exact spot on the tree than I agree that it might be more than just a random flaw caught by quality inspector.

Very well done! Question: Are the red taillight lenses transparent red plastic or red paint?

I guess you are not going to answer my questions?

Cool! Sort of reminds me a bit of the Eggplanes (by Hasegawa)

Hey Joe, good to have you back on the forum. I read the re-post and found it interesting. This is my first visit of the forum since last Thursday morning so you never even gave me a chance to read your original post. There are members that only visit once a week or even less frequently, but who might find your story interesting. I agree with others that you did an early withdrawal. You need to give a story like at least a day or two (or in my case, several days) to get some comments.

Electic cars are quick off the line because electric motors (unlike internal-combustion engines) produce maximum torque at stall. Which is where you are when stopped.

And a Ford 289 engine in a 1:43 scale AC Cobra. The distributor is a bit clunky looking (molded with the intake manifold) - I should have reshaped it, but it is what it is.

How about an alternate scenario? Just your parts tree had a partially molded or malformed part. Or there was some nasty schmutz in the plating which was caught by the quality control inspector. They just replaced the bad part by including one from a spare parts tree.

Eh, why not just ask Alexa? She knows *EVERYTHING*!

Well, it is solvent based, but the solvent is H2O (water). Because the solvent (water) evaporates from it during the drying/hardening process, I would expect shrinkage. The 2-part putties which harden by a chemical reaction between the 2-parts are not solvent based and are non-shrinking.

Come on guys, this thread is too good to get it locked. Cut out arguing about those exclamation points - you are irking me!!!! Seriously.

Nice model! Is this a fantasy vehicle or based on a real one? If it is a model of a real one why does it have Aberdeen lettering (and not Cyrillic lettering)?

You're welcome. I took a average color sample from the rear quarters in the color corrected picture and it is definitely shade of brown. Here it is over white background.

I have tried to correct the red shift. This might be a better representation of the color. But no matter what, it is very hard to get an exact color from a photograph. There are just too many variables. it does seem to look close to "coral" on US-made cars.

That is an important clue. Sounds like the decal got wet, decals slid around and the glue layer (which is also impermeable to the liquid clear film) dissolved off the paper. So when you painted a layer of the liquid decal film the water soluble glue was not there acting as a barrier and the liquid decal film adhered to the paper. You basically sealed the decal images to the paper backing. You might still be able to trim the decals right to the images and if there is still enough adhesive left under the images you might be able to slide them off the paper. The alternative would be to scan the decal, create artwork and print a new copy.

Fair enough. I'm not a die-cast model collector and I have never seen any of the "Mint" models with nice real wire spokes like that.

Fireball Resin tires are depict tires on modern vehicles. So you are planning on making tires for antique cars? As far as as the diecasts from Danbury or Franklin Mints go, I have couple Danbury Mint '30s cars and I don't consider their spoke wheels to be particularly well made. The spokes are fairly out-of-scale molded plastic. Maybe you've seen some that have photoetched spokes? Those look much better, but the best ones are hand-laced using wire.

Ray, Like you, I am very curious about manufacturing processes. I would love to hear some "war stories" from kit designers and die/pattern makers who worked in the model kit industry. But unfortunately they don't hang out in model forums. Well, there are some industry insiders here, but not many. This is more of a builders forum. Thankfully (as shown in some references in this thread) more and more of this type of info is accessible on the Internet. But still, I think it would be really cool to have some of the old-timers sharing their experiences on this forum.