peteski

That brings up another memory for me: Matchbox made few cars in the 1970s which also had steerable wheels. Those were also worked by pressing on top of the car.

What is unclear to me is whether the spots are adhesive residue from the tape (you can feel them when you run a finger over them, or if you pick at them with your fingernail they are soft and sticky), or are those spots embedded in the clear plastic (you can't feel them with your finger)? If it is leftover adhesive then you should be able to remove it using one of the above described methods: pick them up using some fresh tape, ue a solvent like Goo Gone or alcohol (which I suspect is in the cheap deodorant). If the spots are in the plastic itself then polishing should clean them out (polishing is an abrasive process which removes a thin surface layer of the polished object). But I guess if whatever caused these spots ate deeper into the clear plastic then polishing won't work. Also, are you sure the spots are on the front surface of the windshield? Maybe they are on the back of it?

I remember seeing this: I also found this (but don't remember that lettering style).

IMO, the problem with simulating headlights by any means other than having a chromed reflector and a clear faceted lens is that it will lack the depth and sparkle of what a headlight should look like to your brain. If you want an ultra-realistic looking model you need to go the extra mile and make a scale version of the real headlight.

That resin seems fairly soft, but I suspect it is similar to all the As Seen on TV UV-curable glues. I'm also not certain if it is truly clear or slightly amber. One would probably have to contact Alumilite for a concrete answer. The UV curable stuff is pretty much only good for open-mold and thin-cross-section castings. It is also fairly viscous. To me It has very limited application.

Looks like Alumilite also sells UV-curable resin. https://www.alumilite.com/store/p/1027-Alumi-UV.aspx Alumilite sells more than 1 type of clear resin. If you use Alumilite Water Clear then the tech specs state: that castings <1/8" will need a post-cure heating and that the molds shoudl be pre-heated to 125-150 deg. F. As for which type of RTV you have (tin vs. platinum), that is described on https://www.alumilite.com/store/pg/47-Mold-Making-Alumilite-Mold-Making-Casting-Materials.aspx

That is a beautiful car. I learned about it not too long ago from an article about it in the Collectible Automobile magazine.

Looks great!

I also suspect that this "fix" is only going to work until PB realizes that this is going on and closes up the loophole. They want their $400 per year to enable the 3rd party photo hosting.

No worries Chris - I was simply curious. I don't need another hobby project, and I have feeling that it is out of my price range anyway.

Tough call. It is a big boy, but not a passenger car. This forum seems to favor passenger cars (and trucks). Bikes and farm implements in any scale get dumped in All the Rest.

You'll survive and succeed. Trust me! And if for some reason you get stuck, there are plenty of knowledgeable modelers here to help.

Starrett is the de-facto tool for professional machinists. I have some of their items (like steel rulers) and there is not dout that they are top quality and will last you a lifetime (if you treat them right). However for modeling a $20 digital caliper is more than sufficient. Like I said, I got mine decades ago and is more than sufficient for what I need. It is stainless steel and has resolution of 0.0005". More than what I need for building plastic models for my hobby. I choose to spend the big bucks on other tools, like my Lindstrom cutters or a PACE soldering/desoldering rework station. Then there are Sheline mill and lathe. I also almost exclusively use PCB carbide drill bits with 1/8" shafts.

When I go to that link I get: This listing (**********) has been removed, or this item is not available.

It really is not that difficult. Much easier than assembling a jigsaw puzzle. But not as easy as um, paint-by-numbers pictures.

That one I recognized easily.

Nice! I never seen that kit. Who makes and where can one buy one?

In the past, when posting a message, there used to be a "view source" or "view code" button above the text entry window. That used to toggle between the human readable formatted message and the HTML code of that message. I used to edit the HTML code manually when the forum was not allowing me to to insert photos from other websites. It also comes in handy when someone posts a photo which shows up as broken link. It gives me the ability to see the URL of the broken image. It seems that this button disappeared . Any idea what happened?

I have been using a $20 Stainless Steel Digital 6" caliper from Harbor Freight for over 10 years now. Initially I did give it a bit of a tuneup as it didn't have smooth action, but other than that, all I change in it is the batteries. I'm suspect that it uses the same electronics as the expensive brand-name calipers. Hey, if it breaks and I can't fix it, I'lljust get another one for $20 (r even less if I catch one on sale). Actually, don't tell anybody, but I already bought a spare (just in case).

Cute!

Outstanding! Mark, is that real fiberglass or are you using some sort of tissue, fabric-softenrer sheet, or similar material?

I could have picked up this kit when it was still available in retail (from Hobby Link Japan). But at that time I had mixed feelings about whether I love it or hate it. Now I'm regretting not picking up at least one of them kits. The car kind of grew on me, and even if I still hated it I could now sell it for big bucks.

Some people (like me) refuse to join "the collective". Why then are you still posting on this forum?

I also recommend that since you are new to photography and DSLRs, you should pick up a book on photography basics. There are lots of books on the subjects (maybe there is even a Photography for Dummies book out there). Or find some free online resources. It really helps when you understand things like f-stop, lens focal length, exposure time, white balance, depth-of-field, etc. etc. It will make you a better photographer. Like others have said, it can even become your new hobby (whether you are planning on it or not).

They are constantly doing something about it: they delete the bogus listings and probably delete the user account that created the listing. But the scammers just create new user and new listings. it goes on and on.