peteski

Without more details it is difficult to get the complete picture. Was Mark informed that the models and items would be sent to the museum? Was this a solicited or unsolicited donation? When models/items were sent (through USPS, UPS, or FedEx I assume) was there any proof that they were delivered to the museum/Mark?

As long as you don't go to hard on the BMF, it'll be fine (and will get shinier). Polishing any metal with any polishing compound will leave dark residue on the polishing cloth - nothing to worry about. Personally however, if I polished my models, I would polish them before applying BMF. I would be afraid to rip the BMF off the body during polishing. You said that you masked the BMF?! With what? and the BMF did not lift off the model when you removed the mask?

Funny that you asked:

Nice job Eric! But that gas pedal looks nothing like any gas pedals I've ever seen. It look more like a brake or clutch pedal.

Couldn't you install one of those water alarms to warn you about the water lever raising? That would give you some warning that you need to do something before the space floods.

Another problem I've seen on mostly die-cast Chinese made small scale models (1:43 or 1:64) which are mounted on plastic bases is that the tire material oozes out some sort of clear liquid (plasticizer?) which then softens the plastic base so the tire makes a depression it in. That is probably similar to the tire rot experienced in the 1:24 plastic kits. I blame this on using cheap tire-molding ingredients to save on manufacturing costs.

There are many eBay sellers who take complete kits, part them out, and sell individual parts for outrageous prices (like a $15 hood or a $40 set of wheels). While the turnover rate is probably pretty low, they do seem to thrive. You could do the same with a partial kit.

As I see it, many older modelers (who will spend a large part of their income buying plastic model kits) don't do Tweetbooks, Snaptweets or Facechats. Instead, they like to hang around the old-fashioned online modeling forums. By setting up your little project on FB, you are missing out some important input from those individuals. We are a dying breed, but after we gone, do we think that the tech-savvy millennials and even younger generation will keep the hobby going and growing? I sure hope so, but I wouldn't hold my breath . . .

That is because the propellent goes from high pressure state (inside the can) to low pressure (ambient) when it sprays out of the nozzle. Simple laws of physics (and that is how a Freon-based air conditioning works too). If you decant in a humid environment you also risk water getting into the decanted paint. When the container you are decanting the paint into cools down, water from the ambient air can start condensing on the inside walls, and if enough condenses it can start dripping down into the paint. Not good.

Aluminum lids? I have an old (plastic) Pactra bottle and it has a steel lid (magnetic). Same with all (old and new) Testors bottles, Floquil, and Scalecoat bottles I own - they all have steel lids. I don't ever recall seeing any hobby paint bottles with aluminum lids.

Dave, was there anything on or in the box which identified the owner (you)? Name, address, phone # or email address? That would help to locate you (even if someone took it to collect ransom/reward). Can you re-trace your steps at the NNL? When was the last time you remember seeing or handling that box? Is it possible that you actually took it out to your vehicle but then left it on the curb or maybe even on the roof of your vehicle? People do that with their coffee cups and even with babies! Hopefully what you learned from your son is true and you will be reunited with your stuff soon!

Congrats Michael! I wish I could retire, but I still have many years left to retirement (unless I win the lottery). What did you do for work? I seem to recall that you mentioned being a dentist? Or do I have that wrong?

That is not the only boat by Lindberg. They also produced

So will cars from the cars from '70s or '80s will be considered antique or classic when they become 50 years old (or older), or will they never achieve that status? It seems that while the time marches on (it is now the year 2017) the dates defining "antique" or "classic" cars seem to be static. For example, will my 1985 Caddy Eldorado Biarritz be considered an antique in 2085? At that time all we'll have left will probably be self-driving cars to ride in.

That would be cool! I owned a 77 T-Bird for a while (it was a hand-me-down from my mom). Mine was cream/dark brown. It sure was a unique looking car.

Uncured urethane resin absorbs moisture from the ambient air. That will cause bubbles when cured (through a chemical reaction). If you had your resin for a year then it most likely absorbed moisture with the expected result. You need to buy a fresh batch. You can use a gas-blanket spray to prolong the shelf life (Micro-Mark should sell that too), but even using that the resin will eventually be unusable (it unfortunately has a short shelf life). Also, if there is any moisture in the molds, that will also cause bubbles to form in the resin.

It should be also mentioned that it is not really "chrome" - the process is vacuum-metal-deposition of aluminum over plastic. Same "chrome" process used by most model kit manufacturers. While it looks like chrome, the metallic coating is nowhere as durable as Chromium plating. While it will work for small 1:1 car parts, it will not withstand constant handling (on things like door handles or radio knobs).

It sounds like you were trying clear-film decal paper. Alps white "ink" is not any more opaque than white (not clear) decal paper. The other colors of the flag will be translucent and also need a white undercoat to show properly when applied to a colored car body. Since this basically a long and thin 3-color stripe, can't you just mask and paint it?

I religiously clean the bottle lip and the gasket in the lid before closing the paint bottles - never have any problems opening them.

Good for you! I'm glad to know that you are responsible driver.

I like it!

So the lenses have keyed center-posts which force you to position them incorrectly? That is pretty poor research on the designer's end. As far as the master cylinder goes, Steve is correct. No lines or wires should come out of the cover. But the master cylinder's lower part would have a brake fluid line going to the rear brake and also a wire coming from the brake light switch.

NICE!!

I'm glad someone mentioned this before me. The wipers are the only distraction from otherwise gorgeous large-scale model! IN this scale you should be able to fairly easily fabricate wipers which look as real as the rest of the model. Not only they are too thick for the scale, they almost look like their locations were swapped. Left wiper is on the right side of the car and right wiper on the left. They look really odd. If not for the wipers, that model could pass for the 1:1 car.

And hopefully make it harder to check the emails, Facebook, or text message while driving.