peteski

How do you search Google using a jpg image as the search pattern? I never heard of that. EDIT: nevermind I just figured it out. Yeah, I can see how this makes cheating easy! We sure live in amazing times!

One thing I don't like in those metallic One Coat Lacquer paints is the metallic flake size. Those seem to be made for 1:1 cars - way too large. On a 1:25 scale model they look like those sparkly metal-flake fiberglass bodies on speed boats or dune buggies. This especially shows up in closeup photos of the model. Unless one is going for that metal-flake look, metallic model paints has to have much finer metal particles to look "right".

I think that the UPC barcode labels have been around since at least the 1970s. Unless the cans are *REALLY* old, I'm surprised that there aren't UPS barcodes on them. In that case, go with the spoon test.

Harry, why not employ a simple solution to the Google search problem and continue with this fun quiz? Once you find a photo simply rename the image using some generic name like Photo01.jpg and then use that photo in the quiz. That eliminates any possibility of searching for file name.

Since I created this poll on Thursday, I'll give an answer on Thursday, Dec. 10.

One word: dehydrator. Get a food dehydrator with temperature control or one which does not go over 120 deg. F. Once you start using one you will wonder how you ever got by without one.

1. Spray each one on a plastic spoon, let them dry and see which one is which. 2. Look for a part number or at the UPC barcode on the label (they should be different on each can) and Google those numbers.

Shapeways FXD-printed parts usually have some wax leftover from the printing process. That wax needs to be removed before gluing or painting the parts. Heptane (sold as Bestine rubber cement thinner in arts stores) works the best to remove the wax residue. Naphtha (Ronsonol lighter fluid, or also sold as VM&P Naphtha in the hardware stores) also does a good job. Soak the parts in one of those liquids overnight and the wax should be dissolved. When the pars are clean they become white in appearance. At that point hey are ready for glue and paint. Both liquids are flammable - use common sense when dealing with them.

I never knew that the TILT logo was actually Marui - thanks for this info. I have couple of their other kits (somewhere in my stash). BTW, TILT has nothing to do with Hitler, Nazis or PC.

While the 1:35 scale was a dead giveaway that this model was geared towards military builders, the kit's numbering scheme confirms that. The kit MC-001 (first release) is the military version of the model and the 002 and 003 are civilian. That is a great little kit. I love the woody decals! I actually love oddball models (like station wagons). I wonder if the real car was ever sold in U.S. under another model name?

Yeah, we're all screwed! I have enough unbuilt models and modeling supplies in my stash to last me for a very long time, I'm going to lock myself in my basement workshop and start building! But seriously, seeing where this world is heading, that's what I would like to do.

Funny thing is that many of the older car emblems were written in cursive style (or close to it). So kids of today can't even read those?

Real or a model? Vote here.

You can use Testors Dullcote to make the windows look dusty. Or for dirty look you can probably airbrush them with diluted paint (like you used for those rusty washes on the body).

IIRC, it is actually the other way around: K&S took over Special Shapes Co. several years ago, but the end result is the same.

I asked a Hornby USA rep last week (they own Pocher) and he told me that none of the old classic car molds are usable (they won't be bringing any of those older models back). While he didn't say what is in the future, judging by the models they are currently releasing, it won't be any classic vintage cars.

My workshop is shown on my club's website: http://classicplastic.org/workshops.html (the middle one).

I used to use regular masking tape (mostly 3M blue). I tried the special blue vinyl 3M tape but I found it too stiff for complex masking on a small model. Then I found Tamiya tape and that is what I exclusively use for any fine masking. I still use the other masking tapes but only to fill the larger areas which are bordered by Tamiya-taped areas. Tamiya tape is very thin and very flexible and stretches easily. The adhesive is also very good - not too aggressive and very tight (paint doesn't creep under it).

Avesome model! And built lightning-fast!

Seems that we have similar taste in models Harry. This is a 3rd large scale model you building which I also own: The Christie Fire Engine, the Road Engine, and now the Bianchi. One difference though - all my models are unbuilt (so far).

Flat-earthers also probably do not believe that humans ever landed on the moon (that was another government conspiracy). There was even an expose book written about that (with proof). You know, all this talk about flat earth having edges made me think - what if the flat earth is like a Mobeus strip? There is no "bottom" as there is only one surface! Why didn't they think of that?

Very true - especially on a large 1:12 scale model. You will never get a nice even and glossy finish if you have to refill the tiny cup in the middle of the paint job. I'm quite happy with how my siphon-fed Badger 200 airbrush performs. Dual-action airbrushes are awesome for doing things like weathering, but for spraying model car bodies all you really need is a miniature spray gun (which is exactly what my Badger 200 is).

Pete J. said it all. regular organic solvent based enamels and lacquers will not dry in the airbrush in such a short time. The closed needle prevents solvent from evaporating and the small vent home in the paint jar lid is not large enough for any appreciable evaporation of the paint solvent. The only thing is, when you start spraying after waiting 30 minutes, spray outside of the model body for few seconds to clear the paint which sat in the airbrush. This is important with metallic paints (where the metallic particles might have settled a bit). Also with metallic paints make sure to swirl the airbrush around for a while to mix the settled metallic particles back into the paint.

Looks like not all dehydrators are equal. I have a small round one and the temperature doesn't get any higher in it than around 120 deg. F. Plenty safe for polystyrene and resins (at least all the ones I stuffed in it).

I built one of these - in my early teens - I still have the model but it is very dusty and slightly damaged.