peteski

Well, that information puts a while new light on the situation. The dehydrators are mostly used with the old-school stinky paints (enamels and lacquers). They are not really needed for the newer low-odor water-based paints that you use. For those paints a hair dryer is quite sufficient (and often used by the people who do painting demonstrations, showing how quickly those paints dry). Of course a dehydrator would work well with Createx, but it is not really needed.

Well then, I wouldn't use it for window trim (like they demonstrated), as those on 1:1 cars are more "chromey" looking.

Doesn't look very "chromey". At least in the photo it looks like brushed aluminum.

Your wife is one smart cookie! You're a lucky guy!

I never ever spray the accelerator. Yes, I know they come with sprayers, but it is like trying to put out a match with a fire hose! In our application we deal with very small glue areas (like a size of a pin head, or a long thin glue bead). Soaking the surrounding area with accelerator seems totally unnecessary, and a waste of accelerator. I use small glass dental mixing cups which have small depression in them. I deposit a pool of CA glue in the one covered with aluminum foil (for ease of cleaning). I also unscrew the spray cap for the accelerator and using a pipette I deposit a small amount in the other cup. That usually lasts me entire modeling session. I apply tiny amounts of CA using home-made applicators made from sewing needles, and I apply the accelerator using Micro Brushes. I don't actually touch the brush loaded with the accelerator to the liquid CA glue but touch to the surface next to it. The accelerator spreads out by itself, and meets the liquid CA setting it quickly. If I end up touching the Micro Brush to the glue, it can clog up. if it's not fully clogged, I keep using it. When it becomes unusable, I just toss it and get a new brush (they not very expensive). That precision application gives me nice clean glue joints.

Larry, You should still be able to find 40W incandescent bulbs in hardware stores. According to the regulations (as shown in https://www.cnn.com/2023/08/01/business/incandescent-light-bulb-ban/index.html ) still available will be: Appliance lamps, including fridge and oven lights Black lights Bug lamps Colored lamps Infrared lamps Left-handed thread lamps Plant lights Flood lights Reflector lamps Showcase lamps Traffic signals Some other specialty lights, including marine lamps and some odd-sized bulbs I also believe that standard 40W bulbs are also still being sold. It is the 100W or higher standard incandescent bulbs which are no longer available.

How long have you been away Larry? To put things in perspective, I had a food dehydrator dedicated to my hobbies (to speed up paint drying and resin setting) for over 30 years. That was before Internet forums. I most likely read about using a dehydrator for paint drying in the FineScale Magazine (that was the only model kit related magazine I was reading at the time and I was a lone-wold modeler at that time. I've heard of modelers building their own "paint drying ovens" using a light bulb (usually 40W) in an enclosure with some vent openings for the air to circulate and to control the temperature. That is basically how my dehydrator works. It is a plastic unit 40W heating element in the bottom and bunch of vents with adjustable shutters on both top and bottom. I have small baking thermometer stuck through one of the vent holes in the top lid to monitor the temperature. IMO, if you are interested in a dehydrator, you could probably just buy one of the basic ones (like mine) for some short money. I never needed all the fancy features some more expensive dehydrators (or drying ovens for models) have.

You're a man of few words, but pictures tell the story.

Not sure why this was such a hangup. As the parts list scan shows, decal (sheet) contains bunch of individual decals on it. As it has been mentioned, is it a translation issue.

I thought that nowadays Revell kits were molded and packaged in Poland, and tires were made in China. I didn't know they also had some production in Germany or Austria.

You know, there is a logic in this madness. They are doing this to get customers so fed up they will use different shipping companies, to the point that the USPS will go of business, closing this ancient quasi-government institution.

Yeah, Zip-Kicker is acetone-based so it can do nasty things to plastic and paints. I have ditched it in favor of BSI (Bob Smith Industries) CA accelerator. It uses a mild solvent which does not attack plastic, and is fairly low-odor with maybe even a somewhat pleasant smell.

Brutal? Really? I've been a frequent visitor here for years and I have not noticed a lot of this happening on this forum. Is that a problem? If one is a fastidious modeler, why not be fastidious in your writing? I'm far from being a perfect speller, but I try.

Do you have any Tamiya tape to compare with washi? To me they seem identical. The weaker adhesive is actually a good thing (will not lift the paint). The benefit is that the tape is thinner any slightly more stretchy than standard masking tapes, and the adhesive layer also seems thinner. Lots of modelers successfully use Tamiya tape for masking. But we all do have different techniques and preferences.

Yeah, we have a very similar active discussion is just few threads under this one.

That doesn't change the question some are asking; What is included? Waterslide Transfers, or Waterslide Transfer?

Molotow is spelled with a "w".

What does that mean? Your photos show painted seats and a blurry thumb.

Looks good. Never seen orange or black tape.. For masking models Tamiya tape can't be beat. It is basically "washi tape" which nowadays you can likely find cheaper than the Tamiya brand if you look for it in arts/crafts stores.

Eat some potato chips before the next test.

Might be funny, but as a kit you likely weren't even using a clear coat, spray-bombed or maybe even brush-painted your models with basic Testors PLA enamels or Pactra paints, no airbrush, and likely didn't use aftermarket parts, etc., etc. All of the adult modelers can pretty much relate to what you mentioned, but it is not a good comparison. If you want to be on a budget, go pick up some glue and paints from a dollar store, and find some inexpensive kits. That way you can model on a budget, like when you were a kid. We can't go back to the good ol' times. That ship has sailed, never to return. But is it fun to remember those good ol' times.

If used after final paint polishing silicone will not cause problems. It is absolutely safe for plastic and for hardened/dry paint. But generally I would avoid silicone anywhere near my hobby workshop or paint booth, because even the smallest amount on the surface of items being painted will cause fish-eyes. So from that angle I would stay away from any silicone-containign products on my hobby workbench.

Thanks for the chuckle Carl! But if you tip over the orange juice container, you will have an even bigger mess. Orange juice *AND* Loctite mix!

That is the problem with how things work in our culture. We seem to give all the praises only after the individual has passed on. Not very useful for the person being praised, but makes the still-alive people feel better.

Yes, the body and interior shapes look a bit cartoonish (if that is a good description), but you did a great job on the finish. Nicely done!